where to buy solenoid?

stumper · February 19, 2011, 10:31:33 AM

I have lost a solenoid in my Eclassic 2300. Where can I buy one locally? Electrical suppy, plumbing and heating supply? Other?

bytheway it is a Dormeyer Products 2005-M-1

Thanks

hockeyguy · February 19, 2011, 02:02:00 PM

Is that a warranty item from C.B?

stumper · February 19, 2011, 02:44:36 PM

I don't beleive so. The water level sensor I lost earlier in the year is not. I understand that all the electrical items are 1 year only. I had to pay for the "Love Control" when that went last year as well. I beleive the only thing that has a warranty now is the boiler itself.

They did cover the selonoid I lost the first year, the reaction chamber upgrade, and the door I lost earlier this year. Parts only, no labor with any of it though.

trapper · February 19, 2011, 08:51:30 PM

I bought one for my classic from grainger a couple weeks ago. Go online to get their number and call them.

doctorb · February 19, 2011, 08:56:19 PM

How did you know the solenoid was bad? Failed to open? Stuck open? How? Doctorb

MudBud · February 19, 2011, 08:57:13 PM

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DORMEYER-Laminated-Solenoid-4X240

Also Amazon has them for a few dollars cheaper

stumper · February 20, 2011, 08:12:53 AM

Sorry, I guess I should have told the whole story. When I went out to load the boiler in the morning, the boiler was off and the temp blank. Dang I blew a fuse. Replaced the fuse and it promptly blew again. So I figured I lost a solenoid. opened the back up and unplugged the top two, blew the fuse again. Now a trip to the store as that was my last fuse. Upon return I unplugged the bottom solenoid and the fuse held. I then plgged in the upper two selenoids, one at a time and it held. Bottom soleniod bad. Removed the soleniod and been running the boiler since then. It just runs in what is equivalent to the high mode all the time.

I wanted to buy a new soleniod locally to have the repair done more rapidly plus support local business. With the long weekend it will likely be a week or more to ship.

I figure I'll buy two when I buy so that I have a spare. I thinkthat all three are the same. This is the second soleniod I have lost in less then 3 years of opperation so having a spare makes sense.

Gad it was a seasonal morning with temps in the teens. If it had been 10 below I would have been irritated.

Al_Smith · February 20, 2011, 09:26:36 AM

It depends on who made the valve . Some like ASCO have replaceable coils .If so Grainger would be a good source .

Also depending on the design if the action of the solenoid is hindered regarding opening it will cause a massive amperage draw and pop the fuse .A breaker is time related ,a fuse is almost instantanious .

If you can limp by until heating season is over it could be just a simple thing as a clogged valve .Fact is I periodically have problems with my geothermal and that is always the case .Clean it out ,good for another 6 months .

stumper · February 20, 2011, 10:26:53 AM

No clogged valve. This goes to a plate restrictor over a fan. In a low burn mode it is closed and the air inlet restricted. On high burn it opens and the boiler gets the full force of the fan. Everything is all open and free.

It will be an easy fix once I buy the solenoid. 10 minutes tops.

Again I am just hoping to find a local supplier. I'll call around on Tuesday. I was hoping somone new where to start, electric supply house or plumbing and heating supply.

Al_Smith · February 20, 2011, 12:03:12 PM

Now you got me confused .Normally a soleniod would indicate a solenoid operated diaphragm valve . I suppose though it could be a solenoid activated mechanical device though like the starter solenoid of a GM starter .

At any rate that thing should have a make and parts number I should think .As such though it's doubtfull some electrical supply house like Graybar electric would have one in stock .Best bet is a supply house that deals with air conditioning ,furnaces etc .

You could always Google it if nothing else .

Whatever but If I get a chance I'll take a peek in the Grainger catalog which I have on my desk in addtion to Mac Master -Carr and if anything I'll sound out later this afternoon .

MudBud · February 20, 2011, 03:04:59 PM

stumper, the plate for the fan....I took it right off and leaving that wide open. I thought I might notice a difference and really haven't see any difference at all. I thought you were talking about one of the tube solenoids that failed.

Al_Smith · February 20, 2011, 03:59:59 PM

I looked it up in the catalogs and both Grainger and Mac Master -Carr carry them .Not too pricey,depending .

If you can find the correct one you can order through MacMaster 7 and 24 and usually get it in two-three days most times .I've actually ordered on Saturday and got it Monday because they have a warehouse in Cleveland Ohio ,relatively close .

With Grainger it might take a week plus it costs more and that's even with my discount .

ken999 · February 24, 2011, 09:21:30 PM

Yeah...forget the bottom solenoid...let'er run in high burn mode. Pull it and the disk right off...not needed. You boiler will run better without them.