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Adding hydraulics to lt40

Started by rs1626, September 16, 2005, 02:54:09 PM

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rs1626

Hello  i have built a chain style log turner for my woodmizer  but  the pump i have does not have enough flow ( i think)  to turn hydraulic motor 
was wondering if you guys think i should pursue chain style or go to claw style  i have also built a clamp that looks a lot like woodmizers it works fine
am in process of building arms for power backstops as i write this
any advice would be helpful i dont know a whole lot about hydraulics

Bibbyman

Wood-Mizer would sale you the hydraulic back supports – linkage, cylinder, etc..  But that would take all the fun out of making them. 

You could weld the leg onto you existing manual back supports.  But be cautioned that they are real tricky to get the shape right and the holes in the right position to link them together.  Your mill probably has the mounting for the cylinder to work the back supports.

Keep in mind too that the Wood-Mizer back supports and log turner arm work on the same hydraulic circuit and have flow control valves in the lines so the that the turner don't turn unless the back supports are all the way up.  Then the back supports don't go down until the log turner arm is all the way down.  This keeps dummies like me from trying to roll a log off'n the back of the mill because I forgot to put the back supports up.

If you're determined to build your own back supports,  why not copy the LT70 style?  Unless you're planning to saw really fat logs, you wouldn't have to go up to 15" like the LT70 back supports.

Have you looked through the "Helpful Sawmill Mods" post?  I've posted about making all four back supports powered.  There may be other ideas that would help you also.


Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Minnesota_boy

Quote from: Bibbyman on September 16, 2005, 05:43:23 PM
Keep in mind too that the Wood-Mizer back supports and log turner arm work on the same hydraulic circuit and have flow control valves in the lines so the that the turner don't turn unless the back supports are all the way up.  Then the back supports don't go down until the log turner arm is all the way down.  This keeps dummies like me from trying to roll a log off'n the back of the mill because I forgot to put the back supports up.

Woodmizer needs to put another valve in the circuit so you can't load a log without the back supports up too.  :o smiley_headscratch smiley_thumbsdown
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Bibbyman

Quote from: Minnesota_boy on September 16, 2005, 06:16:58 PM

Woodmizer needs to put another valve in the circuit so you can't load a log without the back supports up too.  :o smiley_headscratch smiley_thumbsdown

Now who would ever load a log and forget to have the back supports up?.... :D ;D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

Minnesota_boy

Not once did I, nor twice, but 3 times so far!  :D :) :)
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

rs1626

I own a machine shop so making parts is not a problem
Does the turner and backstops work from same valve?
I drew arms for existing back stops on cad system to get holes and throw worked out. I will post some pictures soon

Bibbyman

Quote from: rs1626 on September 17, 2005, 09:15:42 AM

Does the turner and backstops work from same valve?


On the LT40 they do...
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

rs1626

looked at a claw today can anybody tell me what the purpose of the slot where the cylinder and the two weldments hook?

Minnesota_boy

When you pull the lever to engage the turner, it forst swings in close to engage the log, then lifts.  When you retract it, it comes down and then swings out of the way.  That's the function of the slotted hole.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

woodbowl

rs1626,
    It's not hard to convert. I converted my manual lt40 and added an extra valve instead of using the flow controler between the side suports and turner. Man is it handy! I can cross control and do things that a regular lt40 can't. I can scoot the log forward and aft, also I can flip a can't backward. If you worry about rolling a log off the other side...............no problem, you won't do it but once.  ;D ;D Here is a thread you will want to look at. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=13496.msg189645#msg189645
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Minnesota_boy

Quote from: woodbowl on September 23, 2005, 09:02:55 PM
rs1626,
If you worry about rolling a log off the other side...............no problem, you won't do it but once.  ;D ;D

Are you sure?  I've done it 3 times.  ::) ::)  I learned how to reload the log without help and can do a 16 foot by 16 inch log in less than 5 minutes now. 8)
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

woodbowl

Quote from: Minnesota_boy on September 23, 2005, 09:17:48 PM

Are you sure? I've done it 3 times. ::) ::) I learned how to reload the log without help and can do a 16 foot by 16 inch log in less than 5 minutes now. 8)
When you wedge a 16" log between the tire and the beam, how do you get it out and load it back on the mill without help in less than 5 minutes? Do you have support equiptment?
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Kirk_Allen

Simple!  You take the wheel off and the log falls to the ground.  A couple of long 4x4s and you roll it back up on the mill.  Or pull the mill forward, roll log back to other side, then load it again.

Where did I learn that?  :D :D :D :D

woodbowl

Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Furby

Kirk, Don't you mean....... At what point in the operation did you learn that ???
;) ;D :D

Minnesota_boy

Quote from: woodbowl on September 23, 2005, 09:32:33 PM
When you wedge a 16" log between the tire and the beam, how do you get it out and load it back on the mill without help in less than 5 minutes? Do you have support equiptment?

Use 2 come-alongs.  Fasten the end of the cable to the mill, wrap it under the log and back over the top of the log and fasten the winch end to the mill.  Repeat for the other end.  Use the come-along to parbuckle the log up the cable.  It takes some effort but not much time.  You might need to use a pry bar to get the log started if it is wedged too tight.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

W

I know it might be fun to make your own parts, but for $300 and an hour of time, you can install woodmizers upgrade to work the manual stops along with the hydraulic ones.  Life just got easier, I get a lot of customers who have short logs, no more running back and forth for me.

Now what I've got to do is replace the leveling legs with hyd. cylinders and tie their operation to the existing hyd. levers so I can level up with out hurting my back.  Next I can add auto level (like on an RV), then teach the customer to saw, and I'll just stuporvise (for an hourly rate of course).

connecticut sawyer

WH_Conley

W,  Ya gotta get someone trained to bring the easy chair, coffee and sandwiches as well, if yer gonna do it might as well do it right. :D
Bill

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