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Drying Sycamore

Started by DR Buck, April 19, 2011, 06:20:11 AM

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DR Buck



I just dried ~1200 bf of Sycamore and most of it dried OK but some of it had real issues.     It was all 4/4 and a lot of boards came out looking like Lay's wavy potato chips.   :-\    It was random.  Boards near the top, bottom or middle of the stacks warped.   No visible reason why it ended up that way.

Is this a trait of Sycamore?
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

scsmith42

Unless it was quartersawn, it's not uncommon.

Sycamore uses the same drying schedule as oak.  I have successfully dried FS sycamore in the past, but the boards were placed in the bottom of the stacks and they went into the kiln pretty quickly after milling.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

WDH

It probably matters more where the board was in the log versus where it was in the stack.  Even if a sycamore board that is not quartersawn looks flat, the stresses from the interlocked grain are still in the board.  When you plane or rip it, the stress can show up.  The first board or two off the outside of the log on all four sides are the worst performers.  For that reason, go against your instincts and slab heavy and put the flat sawn stuff on the bottom of the stack, then stack another species like oak on top till you get the stack as high as you can handle.  The oak provides weight on top of the sycamore boards.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Left Coast Chris

Knots are an issue also.  Be sure and seal the ends of the boards or easier yet, the log before you saw.  That slows down the drying.  It is also good to get rid of the heart center by sawing down it and edging it off of the board.   
Home built cantilever head, 24 HP honda mill, Case 580D, MF 135 and one Squirel Dog Jack Russel Mix -- Crickett

tyb525

Quartersawn tends to be the most stable kind of sycamore board.
LT10G10, Stihl 038 Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw!

WDH

Scott,

I did not know that sycamore took the same drying scheduled as oak.  It sure does seem to be wetter than most green lumber, and it gives up moisture grudgingly.  It took a lot longer to air dry that I expected.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

lt70guy

Of you guys who have sawn Sycamore ever found a large portion of your logs containing shake?  It seems nearly every Sycamore log from our farm, and areas around here, contains shake and is useless for pretty much anything.  Can't seem to get a good piece of Sycamore lumber from any of the logs from this area.  I don't notice it so much in logs that come from other locations far from our farm. Anybody else have this problem?

DR Buck

Quote from: WDH on April 19, 2011, 08:58:01 PM
Scott,

I did not know that sycamore took the same drying scheduled as oak.  It sure does seem to be wetter than most green lumber, and it gives up moisture grudgingly.  It took a lot longer to air dry that I expected.


You're right on that Dan.  Wettest lumber I've ever dried.   Didn't think the mc was ever going to come down.
Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

scsmith42

QS Sycamore is one of the few woods that I can safely mix with oak in my kiln.  It adds about a week to the drying cycle though.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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