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Homemade saw mill#2

Started by Vautour, December 07, 2020, 06:04:09 PM

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Vautour

first update of manual mill pics.... had 2 1/2'' tubing as sliders on my rails but decided to change them for Teflon rollers instead.. as i had to back up the engine and add a 12'' shaft and two pillow blocks and didn't want to bother with doing a balancing act with the head assembly.
 cranking is smooth with the rollers even at 1 1/4 '' of lift per revolution 8)
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Hilltop366


RAYAR

Hi Vautour

The shaft that the head lifting cable is wrapping on gives it a good lifting ratio, but that cable will likely start fraying soon because of the small diameter it is wrapping around on. Just a heads up to keep a watch for.

Ray
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

Wayniac

i have cable around a 1 inch shaft picking up a very heavy head unit been on there 26 years no problem yet
wayniac

Iwawoodwork

Vautour, Keep us posted on your build, and more photos are always good, a new build is always interesting. Always like to see different ideas/ ways to make a mill work.

Crusarius

Ummm, what happened to mill 1? I never saw a completion. Can you get more detail on the lift setup. is that crank on a worm gear so it stays in place? Does it have a physical lock?

Vautour

 
  checking my alignment... looks good
 
  i made my own belt pulley by cutting out the lips of one wheel and welding them together and welding the to my space dummy wheel... no need of a shaft and pillow block. 
 
  the pulley is 15'' and the wheels are around 20''.. the bearings are Toyota rear bearings.... 
 
keyed my shaft and installed my pillow block today.. 
 @Crusarius.. was thinking of using this plate with bolts going all around the disc at the precise location and using a springed lever like the chisel im holding and have different bolt pattern for different thickness, and that lever would slide horizontally to those different bolt pattern...still in the early stages haha 
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Vautour

@Crusarius... saw mill #1 is just on the back burner till next fall... i figured i'd be sawing wood faster by building a smaller mill than finishing up a fully electric/hydraulic one.. one reason was also to build one as cheap as possible using all my scrap steel and auto parts to keep the price down and keep the price tag below $500.
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Vautour

@RAYAR ... i see that your blade guides are just bearing and would like more info on them.. as far as i can see there is a shaft going thru them with a tapped bolt at the end,what size shaft and bearing are they and how do you like them ?? 
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Crusarius

Vatour, I thought about something like that but just using a #40 sprocket. that way each tooth is a certain distance. if you set it up right 1 tooth will = 1/16 or 1/8"

but I really like your idea of having a slide bar with different patterns.

The only thing with that is you may have to raise you head then lower to get the lock to release. I guess since its manual it won't matter but with my wheelchair motor it would not be as nice.

mike_belben

One could weld a sprocket to the cable drum of a boatwinch to get a fixed height cranker.  Or cut teeth into the peripheral face of that big plate for a spring loaded parking pawl.  Sorta like my winch brake below.  The finer the teeth the better the resolution.  








Or put a friction brake on it for infinite resolution with a big tape measure wheel on a thumbscrew for zero-ing at present cut height.  A caddy rear caliper with a cable parking brake lever could work.  Weld plates to the brake pad backing until you can clamp that circle plate.
Praise The Lord

mike_belben

A streetbike or atv/sxs hydraulic caliper might clamp it perfect if you find a lever with a parking lockout.  Honda 250sx.. King quad 300.. Maybe 400ex?  idk.
Praise The Lord

Crusarius

actually you could go even cheaper and use a mountain bike / street bike rotor / caliper. They come in 2 flavors. Hydraulic and cable pull.

mike_belben

I think that plate is too thick for mtb caliper unless he ditches the pads.  
Praise The Lord

Crusarius

he has skillz :) I bet he can ad a spacer to the TMB caliper and make it work :)

Vautour

 

 Welded my bolts to hold my bearing assembly today.. try to finish up the tension and adjustment rigamajigs tomorrow...... tks for the input guys..all these feature are good and i taught them out.... the disc with cuts in them as Mike posted was my first idea and still thinkering with but would need a flat plate around the edge so one could have 6 different pattern to go from 2'' to 1/2''... the caliper is also a good idea for braking but need to use the tape bar for proper measurements and human error becomes a factor,.. the disc method that i mentioned does have flaws.. the bolt patterns closest to the center gets a hole lot heavier and may have premature failure... so maybe the the first idea is the way to go.... whichever  i do, i don't want to have to look at the tape measurement to cut a bunch of 1/2'' boards that's my goal....    
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

mike_belben

How will you manage to do thin skim cuts like 1/8 to 1/4 inch for flattening a dry slab or whatever? 

I think youll find infinite adjustment with a sliding rule or counter wheel works better than a rigid indexer. 
Praise The Lord

Crusarius

Quote from: Vautour on December 09, 2020, 07:01:03 PMi don't want to have to look at the tape measurement to cut a bunch of 1/2'' boards that's my goal....


That is why I made the log scale that I did. if I want to cut a bunch of 1" boards I start on one line and keep going. Problem is changing thicknesses as I cut was challenging. at least till I added the second adjustable pointer.

I do need to update my thread with the updated log scale.

RAYAR

Quote from: Vautour on December 09, 2020, 03:59:35 AM
@RAYAR ... i see that your blade guides are just bearing and would like more info on them.. as far as i can see there is a shaft going thru them with a tapped bolt at the end,what size shaft and bearing are they and how do you like them ??
Here is a link to the bearing info on this set-up:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=111879.msg1753280#msg1753280

These are metric bearings and are the perfect width set-up for 1-1/4" bands. The ID of these bearings is 25mm. They stack on a shaft and are held in place with a bolt and flat washer. This shaft is welded into a square tube that is inserted into another square tube with adjustment bolts and lock nuts for alignment purposes.




mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

Vautour

Tks for the link Ray... and don't eat all that birthday cake to yerself ya hear..
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Vautour

 

 Decided to just go with the bracket to the sprocket method....got 29 teeth on the sprocket and with a 1'' shaft each teeth amounts to 1/8''sooo 8clicks = 1'' boards minus the kerf (15/16''board)... maybe a 30 or 31 teeth sprocket would be 1''plus the kerf??...my disc brainstorming would not work because one revolution =1 1/4'' lift...the math doesn't add up... back to the drawing table pc_smiley  
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

RAYAR

Mine runs about an inch per revolution of the hand crank. Very quick and fast to make adjustments. It uses about a 12" pulley with a snug fitting belt and a spring tensioned brake. Never seems to creep out of adjustment. I still just have a standard aluminum inch scale rule in 16th's. I can adjust to 64th's if I want.
mobile manual mill (custom build) (mods & additions on-going)
Custom built auto band sharpener (currently under mods)
Husqvarna 50, 61, 254XP (and others)
96 Polaris Sportsman 500
2006 Ranger 4X2 w/cap, manual trans (430,000 Km)

Crusarius

vatour, you probably forgot to factor in the diameter of the cable. that will make a difference. Especially since that looks like pretty healthy cable.

Vautour

 
  Got my hydraulic tension assembly installed... 2000 psi on the gauge...Ram,gauge, and bolt = $50.00 
 
the Gospel is WANTED by the people in 52 Countries but made illegal by their Government

Crusarius

The bolt is an interesting idea. Where did you get the ram and gauge? What are you using to push it?

oooh, closer looks shows the nut as a stop. thats a kool idea. Still need somthing on the slidey part though.

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