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pruning saw

Started by JimMartin9999, February 25, 2009, 08:30:30 PM

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JimMartin9999

I want to hand prune some larches, norway spruce, and white pines( about 20 acres). 'There will be green and dry branches to cut.  there are lots of saws on the market at various prices,  having various numbers of teeth per inch and  lengths.

I was thinking of mounting a blade on an ax handle to get to the trunck from three or four feet away.

Can someone out there with  experience recommend a saw/blade?

Jim

ErikC

 Fanno are excellent. For the price, I think Corona cut real good, they cost less than 1/2 what a Fanno does.  20 acres is a lot of hand work pardner. :o Hope you aren't in a hurry.
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

WDH

Here is the one that I have.  I have pruned many many trees with it.  It telescopes so you can prune up to 20 feet high.  The saw blade is very high quality, razor sharp, and will cut that spruce and pine like a hot knife in butter.

I pruned 10 acres of planted pine that was 14 years old to a height of 18 feet.  150 trees per acre, so that was 1500 trees.  I highly recommend this saw.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

ScottAR

I haven't seen em, but Logrite makes a couple pruning saws.
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

Clark

Quote from: WDH on February 25, 2009, 11:21:03 PM
Here is the one that I have...

WDH - I think you or I am missing something...tell me again what you have.

Clark
SAF Certified Forester

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

VanWild

I've built half a dozen pruning saws, using various types of handles.  I have found Silky Saws to be the quickest and cut very smooth.  One skillful pull can take off branches about an inch thick.  These saws stay sharp for years under commercial use.  I highly recommend them.  Styhl also makes a very nice non-motorized pruning saw blade. 

WDH

VanWild,

That has been my experience, too.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Don_Papenburg

Has anyone used or heard of a hydrolic pruning shear? I think it is hand held runs off the hydralics of the lift or a tractor.  An old orchard guy was telling me about the one he had a long time ago .He said that it realy save time pruning the apple trees.I could sure use one now.
Frick saw mill  '58   820 John Deere power. Diamond T trucks

Tam-i-am

JimMartin9999

ScottAR is correct we make a pruning saw and something we call a contractor saw.The pruning saw has a 24" blade and is designed to cut 1 inch limbs in one pull stroke.  Now the contractor saw is the pruning saw with a 72" extension handle.  this allows you to reach 11-12 ft depending on your height and still remove the limb with one pull stroke.

They come with 2 blades.
3 tooth per inch for green or soft wood
4 tpi for dead or hard wood

here is the link to the saw page of the website  http://www.logrite.com/logritesaws.html

I saw someone mention Forestry Suppliers and they sell our saws also.

Tammy

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JimMartin9999

Thanks guys.
Now I have four recommendations:Silky, corona, fanno, and Logrite.  The latter costs $150 which seems pretty pricey to me, but suggests 3  and 4 teeth per inch.I am still not clear on how many tpi is optimal for my larches.  Mark mentioned having made some saws himself .  I used to have a blade mounted on an ax handle.  I didn`t get to use it much  but remember liking the feel of it, especially that I didn`t have to hold too tightly on the pull due to the curved shape and the downward twist on the end of the handle. I would like to buy a blade replacement and mount it on another ax handle  but am not sure if a couple of screws would hold it with constant use.  My old saw had a metal part which connected the saw blade to the handle.  I am not that handy with metal working and doubt I could make that part. 
And I am not sure how long a blade would be good  and whether a curved blade or a straight one would be better.

Any thoughts?
Jim

WDH

Definitely go with a curved blade.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

DonT

I like all of my silky's good saws

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