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water well problem

Started by bedway, February 25, 2014, 12:29:11 PM

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bedway

Ok fellow saw dust attics i have a problem i need some advice on. My well about a week ago started acting funny. The water flow would drop down to a drizzel at times and then you could tell the pump had kicked on and the pressure would go right back up. My well head and pressure tank are in pit out side covered. I pulled the cover and removed the 2 inches of foam insulation sheets. I figured my tank had gone bad and was letting pressure bleed off. I couldnt find any leaks on the tank. Any thoughts?

scsmith42

Shut the well off, open up a valve until the flow stops, and then check the pressure on the schrader valve on the pressure tank, it should be around 20 lbs or so.  If it's zero, see if you can put 15 - 20 lbs in and if it will hold.  If it doesn't hold, you need a new tank.

If not, probably a new pressure switch.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

bedway

Quote from: scsmith42 on February 25, 2014, 12:38:26 PM
Shut the well off, open up a valve until the flow stops, and then check the pressure on the schrader valve on the pressure tank, it should be around 20 lbs or so.  If it's zero, see if you can put 15 - 20 lbs in and if it will hold.  If it doesn't hold, you need a new tank.

If not, probably a new pressure switch.


Thanks for the reply, ill give it a try.

dmartin

The pressure in the expansion tank needs to be about 2 psi lower than the pressure switch setting that starts the pump. So if the switch is set to start the pump at 35 psi than the expansion tank precharge pressure should be about 33 psi. Turn off the power to the pump and run the water until the pressure drops to zero and then check the pressure in the tank with a tire gauge on top of the tank. If that pressure is higher than the setting that starts the pump the pump will act like what you are describing.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

My water went out Sunday.
Pump is 260 feet in the ground.
Pulled pump out with RTV.
By passed 260 foot of wire and hooked pump to direct power......pumped worked.
Some where in wire there was a break.
Replace old wire with new wire.....re-taped......check current to pump before submerging......worked fine.
Slowly let pump back down in well......hooked everything up......works fine now.
Just a bad wire.

I have seen pumps not working 1 minute and working the next.......sometimes they do funny things.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

sperry

You need to replace the pressure switch.

Den Socling

I don't think this is your problem but I have had to replace wires that looked good. The insulation became water logged or something.

yukon cornelius

I would think the pressure switch is going bad. that's where I would start looking if it were mine
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

LeeB

Is the pump cycling on and off all the time, even when no water is running? It could be the check valve.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Wellmud

I also think your pressure switch is bad. Check the air pressure in your tank as described above, (tank must have all water pressure drained to check air pressure), if you notice water coming out of the shrader valve, or if you can shake the tank a little bit and determine that there is water in the upper half of the tank, it is bad and needs replaced. A bad tank will cause your pump to short cycle and will kill it in a short time.
Woodmizer LT35 manual, Kubota L3130, Farmi 351, Stihl 029 super, 3 Logrite canthooks

kevin19343

I have replaced loads of pressure switches on the various wells on the farm. It's always the first thing I look for and its relatively easy and inexpensive to fix. Most big box stores carry them.

bedway

As soon as this polar vortex ;D eases up im going to uncover the well again and try some of your suggestions. Thanks again, ill keep you informed.

turnkey

Before changing the pressure switch there is another problem that can happen.  It did to me. 

I had the same symptoms and found that that little 1/4" pipe the pressure switch sits on was almost totally blocked.  It took a long time relatively speakingfor thepressure change to reach the switch. Remed the pipe out and it was back to normal.

I thought that it was an unusual problem but found out later it isn't all that rare.

Harry K

saxon0364

I had water problems yesterday myself.  My pump was switching on when the pressure got low but was only pumping up to about 35 pounds before stopping. The water would run very briefly then quit.  I was thinking my well was dry or the pump was going.   First thing I checked was the pressure switch.   Sure enough, I found that one side of the switch that completes the circuit was amuck.   The rod that holds the contacts and the little pressure spring behind it had come lose from the plastic backing.   So, when the switch engaged I was only getting contact on one side.  Which, I guess would mean the pump was only getting 110 instead of 220.  That cant be good for the pump.   Changed out the switch and I was good to go. 
Nothing wrong with quiet.

trapper

is the pressure tank waterloged?  There needs to be air in the tank to expand and contract.  I need to put air in mine once in a while when the pump kicks in too often.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

ely

that's some good info turnkey. I am having the same problem at my house. I love this site for info.

bedway

I went out this morning even with it being only 24 degrees and uncovered the well for some further investigation. I had the boss open faucets and noticed the pump kicks on at 30 psi. Then i turned off the pump and the boss opened several faucets and let the water run until it quit. I then checked the pressure on the tank and it read 18 psi. I put air in the tank and brought it up to 28 psi and it held. Turned the power back on and cycled the pump a few times and covered the well back up (my hands were freezing by this time). Ill monitor it for a while keeping my fingers crossed.

sperry

That's perfect. I still think you need to change your pressure switch. Every time the switch kicks on, a little arc jumps between the points just before they completely engage. This leaves some black burn marks that will occasionally not let the point make a good connection. If you can go to your pit when the pump is not working and give the switch a little tap, sometimes it will make them connect and the pump will work. Oh, by the way, this has been my everyday job for 40+ years. I'm always happy to help a fellow sawyer.

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