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Old Franklin Skidder

Started by fudrockcity, October 19, 2013, 09:12:59 PM

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nhlogga

Quote from: loggah on October 21, 2013, 07:14:54 AM
Im pretty sure the axles are Rockwell, Oliver Stores were the first Franklin Dealers in the area and were in New Glouster(SP) Maine ,they had 4 stores ,one in Lancaster N.H.. They have been bought out by Anderson Equipment. If you need any parts  Eddie Nash and sons in Coldbrook N.H. had a bunch of them for spare parts.You did well buying that machine,decent price. Don


The Oliver Stores got bought out by Andersen Equipment as did Hazelton.
Jonsered 2260
Husky 562xp

lynde37avery

congrats on the franklin, I learned a little about the machine so far I have had mine for over 2 years now. pulled lots of wood so far. harolds logging should have some spare parts.
Detroit WHAT?

mad murdock

Quote from: loggah on October 22, 2013, 06:00:05 PM
I think you will find the engine is a 4.236 Perkins ;D 4 cylinder ,236 cubic inch71 flywheel H.P.. Those perkins are good engines, i have two Massey tractors with a 4.203 ,and my brother has a 175 Massey Ferguson with the 4.236 engine in it.
I'll second that thought, those Perkinses is easy on fuel and dependable to boot!It'll be a nice wood getter!
8)
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

David-L

Nice work, I know multi-power well. I like the rolls for the rear blocking. Nice machine, my buddy has one and loves the old girl.
                                                          David

                                                   
In two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

fudrockcity

I've been waiting to recieve some new parts for the skidder so in the meantime I decided to tackle the leaky oil seal on my winch.  I took of the front cover to reveal a simple combination of 4 gears and the splined shaft that engages the winch...nothing high-tech here.  I soon realized that the reason for the leaky oil seal was because I had 2 bad bearings that retain the input shaft, which as a result wore slightly on the front of the shaft just behind the yolk and oil seal.  I pressed on the new bearing.  The lateral play was about an 1/8"  and the interior of the bearing spun indepently from the shaft...not good.  It's always interesting to put together the pieces of cause and effect...I had a feeling it was going to be more involved than just replacing the oil seal.
I pulled off the new bearing and built up the seat on the shaft by brazing a bead around where the bearing sits, turned it down on the lathe to the diameter of the inner race and unworn hight point on the input shaft.  Today I put it back together and see if it works.   




fudrockcity


fudrockcity

I went to change the the front differential oil and bearings started to fall out of the drain hole like broken teeth.  The rear rearend had the beginning symptoms as well.  I pulled the axles and both differentials out and ordered new pinion and pilot bearings.  The ring and pinion showed only limited wear so it wasn't all bad news.  The planetarys have brass pins (the rear planets have an interior cage similar to what galogger was talking about).  Axle bearings are tight and the gears are good.  I did order some new brass pins to replace the leaky ones.  I'm still waiting on oil seals and bearings for winch and transfer case.  Winter is moving in and I'm really hoping to have this project wrapped up before snowflies...someday a shop would be nice.       

terry f

    If you ever get bored, you can come work on mine. You would have it done while I was still thinking about it, good work.

Holmes

 You are doing a great job.  I enjoy seeing posts on jobs I would like to do but I don't have the equipment or knowledge.  Fun to watch the [ forward ] progress.  :)
posts
Think like a farmer.

mad murdock

Quote from: terry f on November 10, 2013, 08:02:54 AM
    If you ever get bored, you can come work on mine. You would have it done while I was still thinking about it, good work.
Terry, I was just thinking to myself, "I wonder how old terryf is getting along with his new machine?"  How is it going your way?
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

terry f

     Thanks Mad Murdock, been playing dozer more than logger, but couldn't be happier. Would hate to take it apart like fudrockcity, there would be too many extra parts left when I tried to put it back together.

lynde37avery

oh I see you opened the winch to repair it. how is it adjusted for the free spool? I have the same winch on my franklin. im too chicken to open it without knowing what im getting into.
Detroit WHAT?

Stephen Alford

 

 
  The free spool adjuster on my ol girl is at the end of the screwdriver in the photo.  Not a biggie to open the winch.

 
There are two holes at 5:30 and 11:30 to put bolts in which push the cover out and off to get at the brake adj for holding. Never seize is a good idea on the lip to make access easier. I always put some silicon on to keep water out.

  On another note a couple of things I came across this week are if you have to add oil to your hubs the pump for tire goo works great on a jug .  The little hose allows air out and oil in.  The second is they now make bifocal safety glasses.


 

Keep the pics coming fudrockcity. Thanks.
 
Stay safe and keep looking up .   :)


 
logon

lynde37avery

oh sweet thanks im a go look right now with my flashlight n see if I see what you pointed at with the screwdriver.
Detroit WHAT?

lynde37avery

nope different winch. mine is the same as fudrockcity winch. it has a bolt on top of winch on "drivers side" seems to not do much at all when turned. but you can also take it out too. also only one other bolt on middle of winch looking from the cab back. we will have to see what happens. mine free spools like crazy, spaghetti cable style. winch holds real good tho when I winch in and skid.
Detroit WHAT?

Stephen Alford

  A lot of winches operate on the same principal ,friction to slow the free spool. Your bolt or set screw may be worn and not making contact.  The set screw will keep threading in where the bolt will top out when the head hits. Never seize what ever you use so it can be adjusted at another time. You take some pics and I will go look for those "stupid glasses".    :D
logon

ga jones

If the model 20 Franklin is the same as the 600 under the side cover on the driver side there is a nut at the bottom of the brake band that pulls tension on it there's a spring behind it. It adjusts free spool as well as tension.the adjustment on the cable may need tweeking also.
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

lynde37avery

I will up load all the pics I got of it. n show you the stuff. I seen one pic on here on another thread where a guy had the cover off on the "drivers side" n he had some bar he was using to make it free spool, I don't know what that was about. but I figure the adjuster is inside the side cover?
Detroit WHAT?

ga jones

The brake band in these old mechanical winches rests on the drum. the free spool is adjusted by the band applying  less weight on the drum. If that makes sense? That's why the bar was lifting up on the band.the band is pined on on top and pulled on at the bottom. put up those pics
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

fudrockcity

Thanks for the pictures of your winch Stephen Alford.  I have the same winch as you and now (thanks to you) I can adjust my free spool.  I've been waiting to get my owners manuals from my parts guys since I bought this machine and I have recieved nothing but false promises.  Pictures are very helpful, Thank You.
Today I got the winch back together, the transfer case output bearing is replaced, resealed and topped off with oil (I'm watching/waiting for leaks).  The planetaries & axle tubes have had the rotten bearings and metal fragments thoroughly douched, now awaiting rebuilt rearends.  The transmission has fresh oil...but the problem with this tranny is that I'm still waiting to find a problem with this tranny...we'll see.  Just seems to be the way it's been going.
Lastly, rifle season is upon us and the rut is supposed to be in full swing.  For some strange reason I have seen very little deer activity since I bought this skidder...too much time wrenching and not enough time hunting...maybe tomorrow morning.
Thanks again for everyones interest and advice.   

ga jones

Stephens winch pics look like a gearmatic 19 like the one on my timberjack . Or can-car model 20. Doesn't look anything like my Franklin. The model 20 Franklin must be a hole different winch. The brake on my gearmatic is on the right side my Franklin is on the left sie (driver side.)
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

fudrockcity

I take it back, mine is different too.  I wonder if the free spool adjustment is anything similar? 

Stephen Alford

   Right you are ga jones ,a can-car model 20, should have said that at the get go.   :) 
logon

ga jones

Thanks for clairifying that Stephen. The Franklin cable operated winch I have doesn't have an external adjusting screw. The free spool is adjusted with the band tension.
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

BHC

used to have a 132, a 1973 model franklin, this had what we always referred to as a swede winch, 2 control handles, 1 for winching in 1 for the break, you could adj the break for free spooling, more or less, by shorting or lenthing the yoke on the cable. same winch on the old case 300's, really it was more trouble free of a wench then the gearomatics.
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