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Old Franklin Skidder

Started by fudrockcity, October 19, 2013, 09:12:59 PM

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lynde37avery

Detroit WHAT?

ga jones

You may be able to get the adjustment out of the cable. Where it attaches to your handle there's a yoke threaded on. Adjust it there. There's also one under the side cover. The other side than your picture.thats the ring and pinion side in your picture.dont be afraid to take the side cover off on the other side. It's only a cover there's nothing going to fall out.the cable attaches to to an eccentric lever that pulls on the brake band .i will get some pics up this week.
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lynde37avery

thanks ga jones. I will take that cover off n let ya know what I come up with. im really tired of a spaghetti string cable all the time lol. thank you. log on.
Detroit WHAT?

ga jones

380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

ga jones

Pic 2 I'm pointing at the tensioning nut. Pic 3 is a close up of that nut and the spring that holds band out when released.pic 4 is the yoke on the cable at the handle.
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

lynde37avery

you been so much help THANK YOU. its impossible to find anyone around my area who knows about the franklin 20 winch. I will go out the next day im running it n see how it all goes n let ya know. I knew it couldn't be that hard of stuff to find.
Detroit WHAT?

ga jones

The pics are from a model 600. It's a bigger version of the 20. It could differ slightly. Good luck.
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

fudrockcity


ga jones

Lynde u get that freespool
Figured out or what?you can cheat it if u can't. Just don't flip the handle  all the way down. Let it down slow until the drum just barely moves .
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

lynde37avery

I didn't get out of the cider mill in time today. but tomorrow I go to work at the wood lot all day so I will be taking that cover off. I got a new camera n I will snap some pics of what I come across. so these pics will be a lot better than the other ones I took lol.
Detroit WHAT?

lynde37avery

I forgot my camera but I took the cover off. adjusted it just the way you showed. works great :) thanks so much. ill bring my camera the next day I go to cut some spruce. n I will post pics. new camera I cant wait to use it.
Detroit WHAT?

ga jones

Happy to help. They can be a pain even though there simple.parts get worn and don't work as they were intended.
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fudrockcity

Happy new year everybody.  I'm still plugging away on my Franklin 120.  Recent progress has nearly screeched to a hault since this fall.  Nonetheless here are the upadates:  I got the steering pistons rebuilt and rebushed.  I bought a used fork and trunnion tube that was in way better shape then my original but I'm still waiting for the bronze bushings to be made.  I got my differentials rebuilt which I plan to pick up on Monday.  The grand total for the difs is $1300 and I'm wondering if that sounds like a fair price to you guys as I already purchased all the internal  bearings for the guy and I only needed him to reassemble the parts (the ring and pinion was still good on both).  Any thoughts? 
Next up are the leaking panetaries.  I have Rockwell pr61's on the front and pr68's on the rear all of which have worn out covers.  I called a reliable used parts guy that I've met since I've become a proud Franklin owner and he's looking for some good used covers for me.  In the meantime I'm wondering if I should have my current covers remachined but I don't know what it will cost.  I know I can buy the the pr61's used taken out of an AC 445 loader and they sell for $325 with the brass pins.  New pr61's cost $500 ea. and the pr68's cost $600 all with new pins intalled.  Feel free to voice your thoughts on these prices and what direction you think I should take with  my planetaries.  Thank you.

ga jones

Aftermarket parts inc. get new
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treechopper40

hi fudrockcity that old franklin you got was my skidder at one time that was a great little machine pulled a lot of wood with that skidder check with eddy nash they may have some parts for that too good luck
1979 c5d treefarmer 1966 c5b treefarmer prentice g model loader 2 6100 dolmars a 6400 dolmar and a 7910 dolmar 2012 ford f 250 4x4 with a service body and 2 golden retreivers

coxy

treechopper40 where are you in up state ny I also have a 300 skid king an old pettibone 501 and a518 cat would like to see that 300 ;D

treechopper40

hi coxy im in colton ny not far from Potsdam or canton I had a mid 70s pettinbone 501 mountain goat it had 18.4-34 rubber whith a 353 Detroit and a 4 speed standard tranny with a gearmatic winch that was a great skidder I worked for champion paper company back in the late 80s and early 90s all I cut was spruce and balsam 4foot cutting and skidding my own hitches I and bucking on the header I pulled 60-70 cord a week every week with that pettibone that was back when the mills paid good ahhh the good old days but ya come up and check out my old skid king 300 that's a good lil skidder too pulls 6 hardwood every hitch I think it would out pull my c5d treefarmer n the steep ground if u wanna come up I can send you my number
1979 c5d treefarmer 1966 c5b treefarmer prentice g model loader 2 6100 dolmars a 6400 dolmar and a 7910 dolmar 2012 ford f 250 4x4 with a service body and 2 golden retreivers

lynde37avery

those prices aren't far off from the quotes I got. I paid about 750. for a ring gear, 3 planet gears, the sun gear and 3 brass pins
Detroit WHAT?

fudrockcity

 

  

  My old trunnion bushings were too sloppy so I found another set that showed some promise.  I was able to true the first one up with minimal work leaving a .016 space for grease.  The second bushing was was cupped on the inside leaving a space greater than my .016 tollerance.  I tried brazing up the I.D. but it didn't stick because the bronze had absorbed years of greasy petroleum (no matter how much I heated).  I thought about using duct tape but figured I'd try JB Weld first.  I slathered the inside with a generous dose and let it cure on the lathe while spinning.  Once it dried I was able to turn it down to size leaving a thin layer of the epoxy on the low spots.
Attached are the before and after pictures.

fudrockcity

Back to the other problem at hand...I took the time to thoroughly look over my planetary covers and realized that the majority of the pin retaining holes still fit tight and it was the old pins that had worn.  Although there were 2 holes that did exhibit excessive play.  I replaced all the pins that showed any sign of leaking or simply looked worn out.  When I pressed in the new pin, now I could have used duct tape, but instead I put a thin bead of JB Weld around the outside of pin before it was seated to prevent any further leaking and hopefully eliminate the chance of future wobbling.  I replaced all the old set screws with new dog heads and drilled new holes for the points. Today the pins are securely fastened inside the covers...if the experiment works I was able to keep the money in my pocket, if it fails I can always re-machine them or  buy new lids for 2 thousand dollars...but that can buy alot of duct tape and JB Weld.  I will keep you posted on the success of this repair.

fudrockcity

Yesterday I pressed the "new" bronze bushings into the rear oscilating portion of the machine.  I made up some spacers for the tube and got 2 new o-rings to retain the grease on either end of the trunnion.  Then, I rotated the the rear of the machine nose first into the air resting the fairlead on the ground.  This enabled me to position both the fork and trunnion tube inside the machine using a chain fall by lowering them under their own weight rather than drawing it into place laterally...(this worked slick).  Lastly, I snugged up the bolts on the tube, returned the machine to its normal position, chiseled a path in the ice for the rear tires to follow and put in the center pins in....I was happy to see that the tube, bushings, and center pins all fit like new. 


 

David-L

Nice work, those chains on the rears are nice. I had a set on a 230 Jack and they where really grippy and did not give you a bouncy ride. loggers around here scoffed at them and said they would not last or stay on . never had a problem with them in the three years I owned that machine. i ran mine on the back. They were Ofa green from finland and bought them a dealer were someone returned them and got them for half price. Like to see your posts on your work.

                                              David l



 
In two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

fudrockcity

Hello, since my last posting I have reassembled the machine.  Once back together I finally had the opportunity to pull some wood and log on about 30 hours on the meter.  I wanted to run it to see what components needed repair and it appears that a few minor things will need attention: steering seems slow and a leaking axle seal.  But other than that the old girl runs great.  She is surprisingly stout but nimble enough to navigate a tight skid road.  I especially like how simple the drive train and winch components are; everything is gear driven and is friendly to work on.  The winch pull is super strong and it holds tight.  The Perkins diesel starts great, runs quiet (my neighbors appreciate this), and is easy on fuel.  The frame geometry makes for a stable ride and now that the trunnion and center is repaired it doesn't seem to make so much noise!  I am extremely pleased with my old Franklin skidder.
I'm still learning and fixing so I will continue to post questions here in the future.  I wanted to thank everyone that shared their advice and experience.  Your help has been a fantastic asset during this project.  Thank you.
Attached is a picture of my first hitch.

 

Woodboogah

Looks good.  I am sure you were glad to get it in the woods!  If you are close to where that was bought you not far from me at all.  Give a shout if you need a hand with anything. 
Keenan Logging & Tree Care, LLC

fudrockcity

Hello...I've been tinkering with my old Franklin again.  I decided to fix the leaky wheel seals and I thought I'd share some pictures in case someone is considering the same venture.   

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