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Author Topic: Trying to decide on a finish for a table  (Read 1435 times)

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Offline Crusarius

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Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« on: March 05, 2021, 12:32:09 PM »
So my wife ended up getting a very nice new sewing machine. I figured a new sewing machine deserves a new table. So I happened to have some short pieces of spalted maple laying around and a bunch of walnut. My plan is to build the table with a walnut border and 2 walnut cross pieces then place three sections of spalted maple into the walnut frame.

I am confident the table is going to be pretty amazing looking when it is done. So I really need to find a finish to accentuate the beauty as best I can. What would you guys recommend?

I have some polycrylic that I was thinking of using but then started second guessing myself. I wonder if tung oil is a better option?

I would like to keep the colors as vibrant as I can and hope to not have it yellow.



The green legs will be walnut, the grey sides and cross pieces will also be walnut, the yellow will be spalted maple.

Offline Dan_Shade

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #1 on: March 05, 2021, 12:42:52 PM »
I like lacquer.  Easy to apply with a sprayer, easy to repair.... 
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Offline DonW

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2021, 12:58:28 PM »
I'll be somewhat emphatic, not to offend but as a warning, do not oil maple. It will cloud the grain - tung oil in particular - dull the appearance, and destroy maples unique light refracting character. Lacquer will have less effect on the color but can still end up looking all shiny and plastic. The best protection - against dust and grime etc... - I've found for this maple, that will not diminish its character is microcrystalline wax, a synthetic wax applied sparingly. And to preserve the spalting effect avoid exposing the table to sunlight. 
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

Offline DonW

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2021, 01:03:42 PM »
You do have the issue of wood movement.  How will you accommodate that in this design?
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2021, 01:11:35 PM »
You do have the issue of wood movement.  How will you accommodate that in this design?
Hopes and dreams :)

I actually was talking to my wife about that and I explained to her this is going to be a mad science experiment and hope for the best. I know all the materials will move independently but I am hoping for the best. We will see what happens.

I ordered a lock dado bit for drawer boxes. The spalted maple is going to end up being somewhere from 3/8" to 1/4" thick So I am hoping I can use the lock dado bit to put a groove around the outside walnut and along the edges of the maple to hold it all together.

Once again, this is a full on mad scientist experiment.

oh yea, and to top it off this is the first real wood project I have ever done that is not pine. This entire thing is going to be interesting.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2021, 01:14:22 PM »
Don, thanks for responding. I didn't think tung oil would do that. great to know. 

Dan, I have never dealt with lacquer have no idea what to do with that. 

Offline Larry

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2021, 04:03:48 PM »
I would like to keep the colors as vibrant as I can and hope to not have it yellow.
Oil finishes are yellow out of the can.  Some more than others.  Nitrocellulose lacquer yellows with age.

I use oils, lacquer, and shellac dependent on the project and the look I want to achieve. My favorite for light colored woods is Sherwin Williams Cab lacquer.  It goes on water clear and stays that way.  Has UV inhibitors.  Available in different sheen's.

Whatever you pick, try it on a test sample first.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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Offline btulloh

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2021, 05:10:19 PM »
Do the top pieces run cross-wise as depicted?  If so there really is going to be an issue with seasonal wood movement unless thereís a gap between them or something. You may want to add a stretcher as well for stability. 

Just throwing it out there as things that should be considered. 

Another finish suggestion to consider is water based poly. Easy to apply and much clearer than regular poly. Canít say Iím a big fan of it personally but it fits your criteria. 

Personally Iíd go with pre-cat lacquer based on your desired outcome if you have the means to spray it. 

Good luck with the project. Looking forward to following your progress. 
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Offline alan gage

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2021, 05:19:06 PM »
Lately I've been using 2 coats of dewaxed shellac under water based poly and it's working great. The shellac brings out the color, dries quick, sands easy, doesn't raise the grain, isn't supposed to yellow, and keeps the water based poly (which also dries fast) from raising the grain.

The only way I've found dewaxed shellac premixed semi-locally is as a seal coat sold by Zinsser. It's very thinned down (hence the 'seal coat' description) and I've found two coats of it helps bring out the color a lot more than one.

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #9 on: March 05, 2021, 06:17:27 PM »
You do have the issue of wood movement.  How will you accommodate that in this design?
Hopes and dreams :)

I actually was talking to my wife about that and I explained to her this is going to be a mad science experiment and hope for t
Yes, it's understandable, speaking (so to speak) as one experienced in the matter. Believe me it only takes once for perfect confirmation. 
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #10 on: March 05, 2021, 06:31:55 PM »
Do the top pieces run cross-wise as depicted?  If so there really is going to be an issue with seasonal wood movement unless thereís a gap between them or something. You may want to add a stretcher as well for stability.

Just throwing it out there as things that should be considered.

Another finish suggestion to consider is water based poly. Easy to apply and much clearer than regular poly. Canít say Iím a big fan of it personally but it fits your criteria.

Personally Iíd go with pre-cat lacquer based on your desired outcome if you have the means to spray it.

Good luck with the project. Looking forward to following your progress.
yes. the top runs as shown. I already though about adding the stretcher, I probably will.

The polycrylic I was talking about is the water based poly. I like it, it works great. Just wasn't sure it was the right choice for this. I have used it on my pine countertops and its amazing how well it has held up and the pine is not dented either.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #11 on: March 05, 2021, 06:36:32 PM »
I do have a cheap HVLP gun. it may be worth getting some lacquer and trying my luck.

Thanks for all the ideas. I am really looking forward to this project coming to fruition. I already put the 2" thick boards I made for the top border in the save for another project pile and just finished prepping some 1" material for the edges. Ended up at 7/8 after planing.

Going to use a drawer lock dado all around to hold the maple. In a perfect world it will work great. I am concerned the drawer lock dado is not going to be deep enough and the boards will fall out. 

I have some pictures I need to post but I need to find my cord so I can transfer them.

Offline btulloh

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #12 on: March 05, 2021, 06:58:40 PM »
Probably worth experimenting with the hvlp gun for the polycrylic and the lacquer. Good thing to have in your skill set for now and the future. Thereís some good water based lacquer available as well as the solvent based. 

I think either way, the zinnser seal coat that Alan suggested is a good base. One thing I hate about using water based finishes is it raises the grain so bad. The shellac sealer fixes that problem. Zinnser made using shellac a lot easier when they came out with the premixed stuff. Not as versatile as keeping a variety of flakes on hand, but sure is nice for quick use.
HM126

Offline 21incher

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #13 on: March 05, 2021, 07:19:14 PM »
I use polycrylic on everything anymore. It's the only finish that doesn't outgas and make my wife sick with her chemical sensitivity syndrome. It keeps maple light, keeps walnut from fading in the sun and keeps cherry a mellow color. I use a HVLP sprayer for larger pieces and have learned to live with the results. Takes about 6 months to get hard enough to wet sand and polish out. Not perfect but I have no choice and make it work.
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #14 on: March 05, 2021, 07:52:00 PM »
I would like to keep the colors as vibrant as I can and hope to not have it yellow.
Oil finishes are yellow out of the can.  Some more than others.  Nitrocellulose lacquer yellows with age.

I use oils, lacquer, and shellac dependent on the project and the look I want to achieve. My favorite for light colored woods is Sherwin Williams Cab lacquer.  It goes on water clear and stays that way.  Has UV inhibitors.  Available in different sheen's.

Whatever you pick, try it on a test sample first.
Larry where do you get the SW cab  lacquer? Thanks
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2021, 09:24:31 PM »
does polycrylic need to be thinned to spray through HVLP gun?

I definitely agree with raising the grain issues. that might ruin this table. I will have to try as piece soon

Offline 21incher

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2021, 09:52:54 PM »
I don't thin it. You need the proper  tip size. It does raise the grain first coat and l just use an orbital sander with 320 grit between  coats. Biggest issue is the heat from the blower turbine drys it almost instantly so it doesn't level out perfectly and if you try to spray it to thin you can get thread like very fine strings in the finish. I use a piece of cardboard to get the right settings depending on the temp and humidity before  committing to the final part.
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2021, 10:05:20 PM »
Larry where do you get the SW cab  lacquer? Thanks
At Sherwin Williams.


Only comes in gallon and larger sizes.  I use more of the "dull rubbed" sheen than any of the others.  It's code is T75 F 18.  For a tougher finish resistant to food spills they recommend using their vinyl sanding sealer. 

When I use a sanding sealer this is the one I buy.  It has a higher solids content than the SW product and is the same price.  I get it at Pittsburgh Paints aka Spectrum.  For decorative stuff a lot of times I skip the sanding sealer.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2021, 09:31:27 AM »
I don't thin it. You need the proper  tip size. It does raise the grain first coat and l just use an orbital sander with 320 grit between  coats. Biggest issue is the heat from the blower turbine drys it almost instantly so it doesn't level out perfectly and if you try to spray it to thin you can get thread like very fine strings in the finish. I use a piece of cardboard to get the right settings depending on the temp and humidity before  committing to the final part.

are you using an airless sprayer? or does the turbine create that much heat from just the air and poly? What do you have for a tip size?

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2021, 01:14:48 PM »
I am using an old Harbor freight HVLP setup. It has a gun and hot air blower to vaporize the paint at very low pressure with a big hose maybe15 ft long connecting them. I checked the website and they no longer sell the same one. No compressed air required.  I tried the purple air type what they call HVLP and had no luck because  it was made for thinner automotive type paints and they are great for that but not really HVLP.  It came with  a large nozzle rated for unthinned latex paint that I use and a smaller one. Don't  know the exact  size but I think it's  like a 1.8 or 2 mm. Works best in cooler weather that slows down the hardening time. When it's hot the Polycrylic dries instantly and doesn't  flow out. From what  I understand  Polycrylic should  never be thinned.
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2021, 09:24:02 PM »
ok, so now as I was trying to build this table I think I realized how little I truly know about making really nice furniture.

Most of my previous projects have involved mechanical fasteners and all have been made from pine. Now here I am trying to become a high end master craftsman overnight.

I think the nicest thing I have built was my DVD cabinet that used blind dados to support the shelves and finishing nails to hold it together.

As I am designing and trying to build this thing I am truly understanding the gravity of my situation. 

when boards shift and move with humidity do they grow lengthwise or widthwise? 

Does spalted maple and black walnut behave close enough to the same to allow me to not worry about the different rates?

My original design had the long edge boards with the grain lengthwise but with the spalted maple running perpendicular to it. Is this going to want to push the table apart?

It is funny how you do not realize how little you know till your knee deep into a project.

Offline btulloh

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #21 on: March 06, 2021, 09:46:16 PM »
Wood moves a lot over the width but almost none in length. Design and construction techniques have evolved to accommodate those realities. Thatís why doors use a frame and panel approach. The panels float and have room to expand and contract. 

Gluing end grain to long grain for instance is generally going to result in glue failure. Any time you have the grain meeting at a right angle youíll have different rates of expansion, so that has to be allowed for. 

T&g and shiplap both came about to deal with seasonal wood movement. 

This gets to be a very deep subject, but it is well understood. Itís very instructive to study good designs and understand the what and why.  

For complex scenarios, veneer over a stable substrate is used. When you see complex marquetry or odd grain matcing, itís usually achieved with the use of veneer techniques. 

Offline btulloh

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #22 on: March 06, 2021, 09:49:13 PM »
Or you can use delrin and do a faux wood grain finish.  :D
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #23 on: March 06, 2021, 10:13:06 PM »
Not sure if you ever go down to the city, but there are some great places to study furniture design.  Right across the street from MOMA thereís a small museum call The American Crafts Museum, or something like that. It has a lot of fine work on display, including a lot of pieces by Frank Lloyd Wright. The Met has a lot of fine antique furniture on display. Thereís a lot to be learned in both places. Any time you see fine furniture is an opportunity to learn about design and building techniques.  And of course there are plenty of books, as well as the interweb. 
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #24 on: March 07, 2021, 04:45:08 AM »
If you understand everything in here, you got it...    google Hoadley, Understanding Wood

The first edition of Understanding Wood was published in 1980 and has since sold more than 130,000 copies. It is widely held as a definitive reference work and the cornerstone of every woodworker's library. Now, Bruce Hoadley's comprehensive guide to wood technology has been revised and updated in this 20th-anniversary edition of a classic.
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #25 on: March 24, 2021, 09:44:02 AM »
Don, thanks for responding. I didn't think tung oil would do that. great to know.

Dan, I have never dealt with lacquer have no idea what to do with that.
There's tung oil and tung oil finishes-not the same! 
 I've used WATCO brand tung oil finis to good effect on hard maple. I prefer WATCO Danish oil under many finishes or as the final finish. Either product has directions detailing the 72 hours cure time before using a coated finish like a varnish or poly-wipe. Recent ERC projects i did multu coats of WATCO poly wipre satin alone and you get an easily controlled finish, especially on a flat table surface. My chestnut kitchen table has poly wipe over WATCO Danish and maybe takes on a bit of a plasticky look but also a wipeable clean up surface. Sewing table a simple oil finish should be enough. 
Tables are indeed a simple piece of furniture but wood movement is often not accounted for as it should be given wide surfaces involved. Some oil finishes and stains do play tricks with fruit woods like cherry. 
many mfg have switched to waterborne finishes due to EPA or local air quality regs. Low VOC vs regular is another factor regionally or affected by where the warehouse/sellers located aside from your own location. Many low VOC finishes are far worse that the original choice IMO. More so true on outdoor finishes IMO. 
Lacquers historically are not as long term durable but modern versions have gained service life- they often do look somewhat plasticky though-IMO. Used much commercially due to spray ability. 
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Offline DonW

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #26 on: March 24, 2021, 06:25:49 PM »
ok, so now as I was trying to build this table I think I realized how little I truly know about making really nice furniture.

Most of my previous projects have involved mechanical fasteners and all have been made from pine. Now here I am trying to become a high end master craftsman overnight.

I think the nicest thing I have built was my DVD cabinet that used blind dados to support the shelves and finishing nails to hold it together.

As I am designing and trying to build this thing I am truly understanding the gravity of my situation.

when boards shift and move with humidity do they grow lengthwise or widthwise?

Does spalted maple and black walnut behave close enough to the same to allow me to not worry about the different rates?

My original design had the long edge boards with the grain lengthwise but with the spalted maple running perpendicular to it. Is this going to want to push the table apart?

It is funny how you do not realize how little you know till your knee deep into a project.
All the components with potential for significant movement should be complimentary and if not, yes the forces will probably wreak havoc with the constriction. It's not all though. For the same reason we don't mix solid wood and veneered or other "stabilized" manufactured products - mdf - together in a single piece. 

These woods you mention have similar movement all things being equal. 
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #27 on: March 24, 2021, 06:37:48 PM »
My dining room table is solid chestnut with "engineered breadboard ends". The extensions are homemade chestnut veneer over plywood with solid chestnut edges, two oak sliders that key into slots under each end. 

On the FB WM group it seems like everybody and his brother is buying a mill now to cut natural edge slabs or cookies. Most of the tables seen there are on welded steel bases-probably cause many don't know how to built a proper table? 

My drop leaf kitchen table, also chestnut, is more typical of solids tops I do and uses directional slots in wood tabs under the table glued to the edges/aprons using screws with washers to allow sliding as expansion occurs. Simple, cheap solution. 
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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #28 on: March 24, 2021, 08:48:55 PM »
Excellent information, thanks everyone. My design has actually changed from the original because exactly what you guys mentioned. I was concerned about the table just blowing apart with seasonal expansion.

One of these days I will post some pictures. 

Offline metalspinner

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #29 on: March 29, 2021, 11:52:10 AM »
Crusarius

A little tip with this mad science experiment of your's...

You are putting your wife in between you and a potential mess of a piece of furniture. No matter how bad this thing turns out (the table, not your marriage), no matter how much you might want to get rid of it in the future (the table, not your wife), her heart will be wed to that table and she will not allow you to throw it out. Regardless of how much your skill set of furniture building and design progresses, she will be emotionally attached to THIS table because you built it for her. 

Just know that going in. :D
I do what the little voices in my wife's head tell me to do.

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #30 on: March 29, 2021, 06:19:26 PM »
thanx metalspinner. your absolutely right :)

And I love the humor :)

Offline kantuckid

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #31 on: March 30, 2021, 06:09:12 PM »
My wife, as myself is a senior, plus she's the wife of a woodworker and she'll still tell it straight every time,(we seniors are well known for skipping over the trivia and cutting to the chase :D) even if she doesn't know what the hell she's talking about or Me, the wood guy doesn't want to hear it ::).
 But, and as they say, it's vary large but, once in awhile she is actually right and I am forced to chew on my words and fix stuff to be right. 
That said, my wife has no role in a finish choice. 
Honestly said, tables are most a simple basic design always. The breadboard ends on my dining table are sort of complex way to perform a simple task-allow movement. Fine Woodworking magazine shows it very well in an old issue.   
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #32 on: April 03, 2021, 03:21:16 PM »
I finally got some time in front of the computer to at least post my progress.

Table is supposed to be 68.5" long x 18" deep x 26" tall. 




I started out with some 2" thick walnut slabs with live edges on both sides. I then took a piece of 3/16" steel plate I had and used that for a straight edge to take the live edge off with my circular saw. My poor saw really did not like cutting 2" walnut that insisted on binding. These slabs had been air drying for at least 1.5 years.




I bought the new Wen planer with spiral head and began planing everything down. That sure is a nice planer. Not bad for how cheap it was. My biggest complaint is the painted black tables are rubbing off on my boards.




After getting everything cleaned up and planed I thought I was doing good until I started mocking pieces up. I realized nothing was square. some so far out of square that by the time I made them square they would be way to small. So I finally had some time to play with my jointer my father gave me. Talk about a learning curve. In the end I think it all turned out pretty good but sure did take a long time and alot of sawdust.




So here is how the table sits right now. I am having a hard time getting the joints between the spalted maple nice and tight. I have a tiny arc to the panels that is not allowing me to get the joints tight. I think I am going to put a longer fence on my router and use that to true them up. Since I am doing tongue and groove in the top. The top is roughly 3/8" thick, the sides are 2" thick. The picture shows everything just butt against each other.




the next picture shows the under side of the table. I am thinking about using a lock dado on the supports under the table to keep the center span from pulling apart. It should also keep the 68.5" boards from twisting. The legs will be bolts in the corners using 4 bolts. the legs will be what trues up the table and holds everything tight. the reason for bolting them on is to make changing them out at a later date easier. If this table ever get repurposed from a sewing table the height would be all wrong.




Here is what I am using for joinery.
Groove, didn't get pic of tongue. you guys all know what those look like anyhow? right? :)




Lock dado. Since the maple is only 3/8" thick I wanted a joint that would hold the top down and support it better than just using a tongue and groove. Hopefully this going to stay a nice tight joint. It feels real nice the way it is.




So the lock dado is going to be on all 4 sides around the maple. everything inside the lock dado will be tongue and groove with glue to hold it tight. I hope I am not making a mistake going this route, but I guess time will tell.

and for a chuckle... This is the problem with being a machininst before a woodworker. Nothing is ever precise enough :)




It is kind of hard to see but I clamped my caliper onto my table saw so I could adjust the fence. It's ghetto, but it worked :)

Thanks everyone for your advice so far. As this progresses I will add more details. I am kinda in a funk because of the maple joints not lining up so I have put a hold on the project till I can get my mind back into it. 



Offline DonW

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #33 on: April 03, 2021, 06:16:24 PM »
Would you consider making up veneerd panels from the maple? It would solve this movement problem and ease your worries.
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Offline 21incher

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #34 on: April 03, 2021, 07:03:25 PM »
Just wondering if you took a moisture reading on the lumber you are using after cutting.  I find  2 inch walnut takes me over 3 years to dry in my barn. Beautiful  maple. I think  DonW has a good idea to make veneer  panels like WOC does.
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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #35 on: April 03, 2021, 08:54:47 PM »
I don't really have the tooling to make veneer. Good thought though.

I did check the moisture content at one point. forgot what it was but I should have done it again after I planed them. I will try to remember to do that before it all goes together. Another reason I am dragging my feet. hoping to get it to warm up a bit before putting it together. 

Not sure if the temperature will effect the end product or not.

Offline mudfarmer

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #36 on: April 05, 2021, 11:40:35 AM »
No input other than that is going to be a gorgeous table 8) Nice work

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #37 on: April 05, 2021, 05:56:17 PM »
Thanks. I really hope so.

I had another member give me a great idea using a router and cutting both panels at the same time. that way I can get a perfect joint.

Now I need to setup a jig to do that.

Offline kantuckid

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #38 on: April 06, 2021, 07:23:37 AM »
You have a table saw which can make veneer thin enough to solve the wood movement issue those square spalted panels will show.If tight and dry it will be perhaps around 3/8" later between two edges? 
  Another potential tactic would have been to make them float within the walnut that surrounds them with the edge gap changing over the seasons but that's sort of a weak design for a table top as it becomes a crumb & debris catcher. Of course the side grain edge is where the space will show up. 
Yes it's a beautiful bunch of wood but I am trying to be helpful.  ;D
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Offline kantuckid

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #39 on: April 06, 2021, 07:30:36 AM »
I don't really have the tooling to make veneer. Good thought though.

I did check the moisture content at one point. forgot what it was but I should have done it again after I planed them. I will try to remember to do that before it all goes together. Another reason I am dragging my feet. hoping to get it to warm up a bit before putting it together.

Not sure if the temperature will effect the end product or not.
Wood once extremely dry still moves over the seasons. The devils in the design. As an e.g. I could build your table in Scottsdale, AZ using very dry wood, then move to the eastern forest areas you and I live in and the humidity would possibly force apart your walnut joints as the wood took on humidity.
I just built an ERC table for my cabin project. It has a 2" thick top and is 48" x ~20" top with legs drilled through as round tenons retained by wedges from the top. It will move but matters not as the top is in free space. Of course it needed top be dry enough to not warp in a heated home where my wife's using it until the cabins built.
If a home has wood heat near wooden furniture then the seasonal changes get tough on items.
I use a microwave and a gunpowder scale that measures in grains to calculate wood moisture content. The measurement units matter not as long as the sample is within the scales limits and you don't catch the wood on fire as I've done before! :D 
Scale twice, easy math, exact results. I do a small square about postage stamp size. 
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Offline TroyC

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #40 on: April 06, 2021, 05:03:57 PM »
Beautiful table! Love the walnut and maple contrast!
I'm partial to a natural stain just to bring out the color. Sanding sealer, steel wool, then a couple coats of clear lacquer. You will find lacquer dries fast, is forgiving in the sprayer, and provides a hard finish. Easy to respray later if you need to refresh top.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #41 on: April 06, 2021, 05:04:34 PM »
funny you say that, I used to live in Scottsdale :)

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #42 on: April 06, 2021, 05:05:25 PM »
does lacquer yellow over time? That is my biggest fear. I really do not like yellow wood.

Offline TroyC

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #43 on: April 06, 2021, 05:17:06 PM »
 I have not had a problem with lacquer yellowing. Got some 30 yr old projects that have not yellowed. Inside, out of the sun of course.

Online firefighter ontheside

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #44 on: April 06, 2021, 05:54:58 PM »
Lacquer can yellow with sun exposure.  Its less noticeable with dark woods.
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Offline Larry

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #45 on: April 06, 2021, 08:03:49 PM »
Nitro cellulose lacquer will yellow.

On the first page of this thread I posted a picture of Sherwin Williams CAB lacquer.  It has UV protection built in and does not yellow.  Goes on water clear and stays that way.  I used the dull rubbed sheen on all the woodwork, doors, and cabinets in my house 10 years ago. I don't see any change in the finish.  Check back in another 10 years for an update. :D
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

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Offline Crusarius

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Re: Trying to decide on a finish for a table
« Reply #46 on: April 06, 2021, 08:31:03 PM »
Thanks Larry that is exactly what I want. especially if I can get it in a satin finish.


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