Restoring my little planer

[Fla._Deadheader]

  No trick. They make regular 8 point sockets. They are used by the power company, on the electric or hydraulic drill motors, for taking out lags and stuff from the hardware on the poles.  If you look into the 8 point, it has a square opening.  6 point and 12 point are for a HEXAGON head bolt or nut.

  I even have a ¼" drive socket set with a couple of 8 point sockets.  : : ;D ;D

  If I HAFTA, I'll dig 'em out tomorrow and take a picture. : : :D :D

[trim4u2nv]

4 or 8 sockets should work.  If you can find 4 point you can just measure across the flats.  The more common 12 points may require some trial and error but I have used them in a pinch on our moulder.   Don't be tempted use cheap bolts to replace these gib bolts or you could have a real wreck or worse. 

[etat]

I think I've done showed enough of my ignorance on this thread and am just a gonna shut up!!!!! 8) 8) 8) 8)

[Furby]

Yep Corley, your right.
I REALLY hate having to use 12 point, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do to get the job done!
Can't say for sure I done them as big as Gilman has on there, but sometimes you do get lucky and they break loose before knocking the corners off.

Gilman, any chance you can get an open end wrench on one and see if it will give?

[Gilman]

Thanks for the advice on the 8 pt sockets, I'll have to look around for some.  Turns out, I lucked out, the square heads were 1/4" and 1/2".  I just reversed a socket extension and used a tap handle.



I just love my Dynabrade, it was painful when I bought it $$$, but well worth the investment. I have extra attachments that allow me to get into about any corner.  Here I'm using a non woven abrasive belt to remove the rust build up.


Here's one of the collets. I just know somebody was dieing to see a collet ;)

[Gilman]

Here's another question. 
How do you setup your knives on these heads?  Do I need to build a jig with a dial indicator or something?  The head for straight knives doesn't have any kind of depth adjustment like modern planer heads.  I figure I'd better build some kind of jig before even attempting to get 8 knives aligned.  >:(

[Norm]

These guys do a bunch of planer and moulder work, may try them.

http://www.woodtechtooling.com/

[Gilman]

Started to loosen up the planer clamp bolts, one free, then two, three, fou <SNAP>... >:(

Lets see 25% failure rate x 8 bolts/knive x 6 knives/head x 2 heads = I just ordered a gallon of rust reaper.

[caryr]

Way to go Gilman. Frank tried the "do you want to buy it?" on me about a year ago, but I showed a bit more restraint. Make sure you leave enough room for adequate in feed and out feed. I had a 20' 6X12 the other day that could have used some trimming.

Cary

[caryr]

Hi Gilman,

I hope the bolt extraction is going well. I forgot about this earlier since I don't spend too much time working on old rusty equipment, but something you may want to look into is an industrial penetrating oil called Kroil made by Kano Labs. I have not used it personally, but I have heard it works well.

Cary

[beenthere]

caryr
I'm of the impression that the rust reaper is better'n (or as good as) the Kano products. Mr. rust reaper may have some info on that, as I believe he has a pretty good idea of his competition.  I've used the Kano and it's good, I will admit.

Another thing I watched work real well was on stud bolts in engine blocks. The guy was using an acetylene torch directed at the stud, and when the stud was getting red hot, touched it with a wax candle. The wax apparently cools the bolt quickly and wicks down around the threads. Could then remove them with a pair of pliers. This was being done just before the engine block was steam cleaned, if I remember correctly.

[Den Socling]

That idea with the hot stud or bolt and wax sounds great. And it's so simple.

I use stuff called 'tapstick'. It's kinda like candle wax but has a lower melting point. I suspect that it's PEG. I'll have to try that on the next stuck bolt I come across. It wouldn't need to be very hot.

[Gilman]

I used up my Koil on the moulding heads.  I really like the product, smells good too.

Since the planer head has been soaked with both products, I don't know which one works better.  I would however recommend both products.  I would have ordered more Kroil, but I'd rather give one of our sponsors a try first.

I had one bolt on the moulding head that was really stuck, started to shear it off.  I built a little dam out of monkey dope and filled the pond with rust reaper and then let is soak over night.  The next day it broke free easily.  Thanks rust reaper.


I'll have to give the wax trick a try too.

[Norwiscutter]

You could maybe just leave that thing on the trailer and start a portable moulding business.

[Gilman]

It's off the trailer now.  Didn't hardly bend an axle either!

A friend of mine unloaded it with his loader.  He's also letting me store it there. 

I guess I could have just jacked the rear end of my truck up and powered it with a rear tire. 8)

[Jeff]

Poor the Kroil out in the used oil barrel and order some rust reaper. Rust Reaper is tons better plus they sponsor the Forestry Forum.

[Gilman]

 ;)

Started to loosen up the planer clamp bolts, one free, then two, three, fou <SNAP>...

Lets see 25% failure rate x 8 bolts/knive x 6 knives/head x 2 heads = I just ordered a gallon of rust reaper.[/b]

The Rust Reaper works as good as my Woodmizer, Baileys customer service, and my Logrite Peaveys.  The more time you give it to soak in, the better.

Woodshed watch out, here I come!

[Corley5]

We've got the back spark plug on the 8N tractor soaking in Rust Reaper as we speak.  The other three plugs came right out.  Dad had sprayed some PB Blaster around it and it soaked for a day with no results.  I soaked it up with a rag, blew out around the plug and filled the depression with R.R.  Should be just about done now ;) ;D

[Ironwood]

The planer is one of those "don't makem like this anymore" deals, for sure! The old stuff can be SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much nicer than the new. Good Luck. REID

[Quartlow]

S&K maks a set of pipe plug sockets which work nicely on square head bolts also,

Great new toy, at least you never have to worry about somebody carting it off  :D :D

[Gilman]

It works great for locking up my bicycle  :D

Thanks Quartlow, didn't even think of pipe plug sockets, I'll look around for some.

[Gilman]

Wow, May '05 was my last post.  Apparently I didn't get this planer running as soon as I'd planned.

When I bought it I had no idea where I'd put it when I got it home.  It has been stored in a maintenance yard for the last 4 years.  Timing finally worked out to have a trailer, a loader, and an operator available at the same time.  I had to use my T100 and the same trailer to get it to it's final resting place.  I suspected the clutch was going out on my truck but wasn't sure.  After I was loaded up and chained down, I tried to leave the yard in 1st gear.... Nothing...  Rev and try again.... nothing, but this time I got clutch smoke stink.  The good news, I know now that I have a warn out clutch.

To get it out of the yard, which is pretty much flat I had to use 4 low and then shift to 2 High.  The worrysome part was down the road, the hill that climbs to 400'.  First gear and hit it hard, nope.  I had to stop and restart in 1st low.  A little bucking and we (baby Sarah and I) were off at an astounding 2 mph.  I tried 2nd low but no deal, back to 1st.  I found out it takes a long time to climb a short hill when you're topped out at 2-3 mph.

Now I have my transmission removed and need to install the new clutch today. 

[StorminN]

Hi Gilman,

Sorry to hear about your clutch. Did you at least get the planer set where you're not going to need to move it for a while??

I'd be interested to hear about any process on your planer. I'm looking to move a similar "little" planer as soon as the ground gets dry enough to do it. Some pics of it are here:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,36733.0.html

I'd also be interested to hear what you've learned about the shaper heads and such on your planer. The side heads on the one I'm looking to move are similar. The top and bottom heads are square. I've been reading and posted at owwm to gather some knowledge there, too.

I've never moved anything this heavy that didn't move itself (big excavators, etc.)... so I'm talking to folks and reading and trying to learn about it... seems every first timer has a scary story, I'd like to try and avoid that...

Thanks,
-Norm.

[Gilman]

seems every first timer has a scary story, I'd like to try and avoid that

Don't think about it too much Norm, or you won't do it.  There's no way I'd haul that thing again from 75 miles away again.    Ignorance is bliss.  8)

Currently the planer is parked on fresh gravel so I can get to it with the big fork lift.  My little 4wd forklift won't lift it. My aunt is giving me a V6 out of her son's Mustang to power it.  A person shouldn't store their junk at her house and then pith her off.  ;D

I might also try to run it of my Ford 860 tractor.