TIMBCO down!

[Firewoodjoe]

Love the machines I get to run but we have a lot of little electrical problems on these timberpros and timbcos. Is it failing to arm at all? We've had issues with the large connectors in the ican box beneath the seat in our old timbco forwarder that even made our dealer mechanic scratch his head and he's good. Lots of phone calls and wire tracing figured that one out. Not sure if the machine your running is old enough to have that box or not?

You can put a spade fuse in the connector to bypass the door switch as well. All our machines have this (not very safe but I guess we're just lazy hahaha) sounds like your problem may be deeper then that though.

What does the ican box look like? There is nothing under the seat. There is a box against the back cab but one side of it was never been hooked up since I bought it. It don't say anything on it. Well I can't get any mechanics out for a few days at least. It's all up to me and over the phone. The one mechanic knows these quite well I guess. He walked me through some valves/ectrical and got me behind the fuel tank to solenoids I didn't even know were behind it.  Those are powered and functional. He said stop with the electric at that point and check pressure. Pilot check valve first than check for pump coupling then call him back. That's tomorrow morning project. I can tell you I'm sick of walking through the woods with different tools!

Is that your relay box for your head?

Well I have a box for the head yes. That all checks out and beside it's a add on. Fabtek head on a TIMBCO machine. TIMBCO machine side dont function. I have checked all fuses in the fabtek box and all is good. 

[mike_belben]

have you got any electric/hyd schematics you can upload?

[Firewoodjoe]

No. 

[Pulpwood mafia]

Check the pilot pump... I can take one out  in half an hour. You have to cap the feed line. Check the splines on the pump shaft and both ends of the stub shaft. The stub shaft pulls out with your fingers towards the pump. It's the first place I look when the machine stops moving instantly

[Firewoodjoe]

Check the pilot pump... I can take one out  in half an hour. You have to cap the feed line. Check the splines on the pump shaft and both ends of the stub shaft. The stub shaft pulls out with your fingers towards the pump. It's the first place I look when the machine stops moving instantly

I wish you would have said "you stupid young punk pull the pump" lol cause your right. The pump is trash the coupling is trash. But there were bad wires, corroded solenoids. I'm putting a new pressure relief in and I have to plumb in all new test ports. Because there is only one still on it and it's for stand by pressure. So in the winter wonder land of brush and sticks I walked 1/4 mile dozens of times and went to town a few times trying to get t's and adapters just to check pressure. So at least all that will be taken care of also. Thanks everyone a ton. Great help. Now just waiting to hear when my pump comes. 

[Firewoodjoe]

Well I've been using it for 7 days. All works but didn't seem very strong. Well today the tracks stopped fast. I still have all functions but no foot peddles. I'm going to carry the tools back in the morning. Any help would be appreciated. This has three foot pedals. One rotates the head. No foot pedals work. 

[nativewolf]

Ochh, good luck brother.  

[Firewoodjoe]

More bad solenoids. I wired in a new plug style. And it's working fine.  And they have built in resistors. But can someone explain how this was wired. And why? The orange is 24v black is ground. Why are all post just looped and attached together?

 

[thecfarm]

Fuse able link??   ???

[nativewolf]

I'm curious as well.

[Firewoodjoe]

Fuse able link??   ???

Well I thought those were resistors. But are you thinking they are fuses? Could be I guess. No idea. I know with a single positive and a single ground it has way more magnetic charge. I hate this stuff. I'd rather have a big dripping valve bank in the cab lol

[thecfarm]

Probably you are closer. 

[JJ]

Well I thought those were resistors

My guess is high impedance resistors, to help reset the solenoid once power is removed and reduce de-bounce at low voltage ???.

[rusticretreater]

Those are parallel resistance loops.  What is happening here is that the current needs to be toned down to avoid burning the part at the end.

There is an electrical term/concept known as pressure(basically amperage).  With only one resistor, the electrical pressure builds up behind it and generates too much heat.  So there are two paths for the electricity to follow, keeping the pressure and resulting temperatures at a manageable level.  The use of two mounting blocks spreads the heat out and allows cooling air to flow over them.

[Firewoodjoe]

Those are parallel resistance loops.  What is happening here is that the current needs to be toned down to avoid burning the part at the end.

There is an electrical term/concept known as pressure(basically amperage).  With only one resistor, the electrical pressure builds up behind it and generates too much heat.  So there are two paths for the electricity to follow, keeping the pressure and resulting temperatures at a manageable level.  The use of two mounting blocks spreads the heat out and allows cooling air to flow over them.

What do you mean by mounting blocks? The resistors? And as far as the ending part. Those solenoids should be the end. The hot and ground wire ends at them.  

[rusticretreater]

I typed that badly.  The part at the end is the internal part of the solenoid. The mounting blocks are the flat surfaces on the solenoid body. 

[JJ]

There is current in the solenoid coil, as an inductor once charged with current, it must have a discharge path once open circuit.  My second guess after thinking about it is these are diodes, probably with reverse BV about 2x the operating voltage of 24V.   It's to protect rest of circuit from OV spike when power is shut off to the solenoids.  yeh, that's it 8)

           JJ

[JJ]

The cathode end of a diode (current blocking) should a have band around it.  silver or white.

         JJ

[Firewoodjoe]

Well the fabtek monitor stopped reading the impulses for the independent wheel measurement. I'm looking into the red updated computer. Anyone ever change one? And does anyone know why these "Dallas Chips" do? I'm talking to the dealer and hope to get more info on Monday. I just welded a hydraulic hose on the head so I can measure with the head. Slower but not down entirely. 

[snowstorm]

are you sure the encoder is good? they do go bad i have replace several. and the wire?

[Firewoodjoe]

All voltage checks out all the way to the monitor. The dealer mechanic said it sound right. All lights are on also. Impulses line A and line B show 0-4.6 volts when wheel is spun. And I ran a jumper ground wire at the encoder. 

[leeroyjd]

Is the spring on the measuring wheel good? 
I agree with checking the encoder. I had one that checked out on voltage and lights but replaced it on the advice of Fabtek tech and he was correct.
As Snowstorm I also replaced a few in the time I owned it.
 I think the Dallas chip is a battery and memory storage.

[Firewoodjoe]

Both your impulse lines were sending voltage and it was still bad? 

[Skeans1]

Well the fabtek monitor stopped reading the impulses for the independent wheel measurement. I'm looking into the red updated computer. Anyone ever change one? And does anyone know why these "Dallas Chips" do? I'm talking to the dealer and hope to get more info on Monday. I just welded a hydraulic hose on the head so I can measure with the head. Slower but not down entirely.

How many encoders are left on that head of the three? On the back side of the encoder is a light from memory that will blink as you spin the wheel depending on which encoder is in there.
I've swapped from the original style computers to the new Joral computer the one thing I missed was the remote key pad.

[Firewoodjoe]

It only has one encoder left. It's the independent wheel. Yes it has lights. All on and flash.