Best combination of cost and safety for my one-man logging/milling endeavor?

[thecfarm]

Here's one way to mount a chainsaw on a tractor.



Sorry it repeats itself.

Yes, a 3pt winch is great, but pricey, but I've been using mine since 1993. I kinda think I got my money's worth out of it.  

This tractor has a clutch on it. So when the front gets to high, I can bring it back to earth by stepping on the clutch.
You may have a hydro with no clutch, so can't do that.
Yes, you can look behind, just don't look too long. That front could be coming up and you would not realize it!!!
Keep your trails free of brush, which takes time. A lot of time.
Using a winch allows you to winch a log to you, so you don't have to drive through a rough part or the brush.
Those branches, slash, is not friendly to a tractor. I've had my tractor in the woods since '93. I do not drive through my brush, unless I have cut it up into short pieces, about 2 feet long. Again, it takes time, a lot of time, but a tractor is not a skidder. Just like I cut my stumps low, and I do mean low. My land is hard to get around on. With the leave trees, knools, rocks, wet holes, it can be a challenge. I don't need to drive over a high stump, or drive around a bunch of slash.
Everything that you are about to do, I do. Manual sawmill and hauling logs out, building with your lumber takes time!!!! Don't forget taking care of your forest!!!
Don't worry about the ones that say, I could get that done in 2 weeks. 
I use to run a veggie business and had many that told me how quick they could build something. Between my day job, veggie business, sawing logs, hauling logs and making time for the family, does not give a lot of hammer time. I suggested many times to The Talkers, I have an extra hammer, come help me.
As my Father use to say, That went over like a lead balloon.

[Mestak]

Any thoughts on using one of these in combination with the tractor 3pt. (i.e. front of log lifted with 3pt and rear of log supported with the Iron Baltic hauler)? They advertise it as the second piece of a set for ATV skidding, but I'm thinking it could easily be used with a tractor as well. Pricey as hell, but looks a lot more rugged than similar items out there. I only wish log size capacity was a little higher than 20"

p.s. I'd love to have a welder and the know-how to make one of these myself, but I just don't.

[doc henderson]

check out Logrite as they are a sponsor (look to the left of your screen).  although not cheap, they are high quality and may have served as the prototype for others (i.e. stolen intellectual property).

[ljohnsaw]

p.s. I'd love to have a welder and the know-how to make one of these myself, but I just don't.

Well...  No time like the present!  Go get a buzz box (can be found cheap and sometimes free on CraigsList) and get to burning metal!  You can always make up for lack of quality with extra quantity  I probably could/should just to stitch welding but I tend to run continuous beads for the entire joint.  I just got myself an auto-darkening welding helmet after suffering with my original Lincoln helmet for the last 40 years!  What a game changer.

As far as the quick hitch, have you looked at a Pat's Quick Hitch?  They are easily and quickly adjustable to fit any width of implement.  A Cat 1 is $209 on Amazon.  If you want one, I can keep an eye out on my local bidding place.  I picked up a couple at $50 each.  I just sold one for enough to cover both plus a little extra.  @Magicman has one installed and I will be adding one to my new-to-me tractor.  My first tractor was a Case 210B with their Eagle Hitch.  It was worn out and had issues but when I saw the Pat's, I decided to pick one up.

[Oddman]

I use a system similar to that occasionally, it works really well although slower. Cleaner wood, easier pull than 3pt only, and somewhat better maneuverability depending on how far up the log it's placed. 

[Mestak]

p.s. I'd love to have a welder and the know-how to make one of these myself, but I just don't.

Well...  No time like the present!  

<snip>

As far as the quick hitch, have you looked at a Pat's Quick Hitch?  

I'm thinking about it. I would love to be able to fabricate the heavier duty stuff and work out a decent forwarding trailer. Just have a lot of learning curve ahead of me already with the logging and milling and wary of taking on too much.

I have seen Pat's and they seem well-liked and work for a lot of folks. The only reason I'd lean towards the Harbor Freight quick hitch is that I thought it might do double duty as an entry-level skidding hitch. Used in conjunction with tongs and chains and with a trailing log hauler like the one I posted above or a Logrite.

[rusticretreater]

I looked at the prices for some of the logging arches and dollies and decided to build my own.  My reasoning is as it is with many major projects.  I can buy the equipment and materials to make it for the around the same cost or less and I still have the equipment to use in the future.

I bought a highly rated Fourney mig flux core starter welder that can do up to 1/4 inch thick.  I did have to install a 20amp outlet, but it still ran on 120v. Then I got an Evolution metal chop saw.  You will need either a chop saw or a motorized hack saw.  My first welds weren't all that pretty, but I soon got the hang of it.  And if you have a angle grinder, you can remove all the bad stuff so your final work looks pretty.



 
I got one of these for $100 off Amazon and it works great.

You might also consider a log skidding cone.

[Oddman]

The ability to "stick metal together" for farm duty can be picked up pretty quickly, becoming an actual weldor is a whole other deal obviously. Great videos on youYou for learning, and I've some books with good info. The old log boom I use was cobbled together decades ago with some scrap steel, a torch, and an old buzz box...and it survives use behind our 85hp Mahindra pulling some big oak.
That said, we can only take on so much at once and still make any headway. Making the decision on what's priority can be difficult. 

[thecfarm]

We have a, what kind of welder should I buy thread too.   
Just makes sure it runs on 220. I had a 110 for a while. The 220 is much better. I could not run The C Farm without one.

[doc henderson]

you can take a class at a junior college.  buy the best one you can afford if you are young.  I have had my miller 250x for 30 years now.  

[47sawdust]

I took a welding class at a local high school 15 years ago and have never regretted it.
220 mig. a set of torches,handheld bandsaw and assorted hand tools and I can build/repair just about  anything I need.
I also have 2 good machine shops close by to fab the stuff that is beyond my ability.

[TroyC]

Just makes sure it runs on 220. I had a 110 for a while

 

Agree on the 220V. For starting out (after some instruction of course) I'd go with a 175 amp mig welder with argon/co2 shielding gas. You'll find it easy to master and it will do 95% of what you need around a farm or woodmill. I find the mig does much better for me than the arc, but the 225A Lincoln arc welder is a solid machine and affordable. The arc requires a knack to master the arc length but is usually what you'll start out on at a welding class.

For about $1,000 you can get into a decent welder, chop saw, and some grinders and such. You can quickly pay for the investments by making an arch, 3 point hitch, etc. Only problem is the price of steel lately.....

I'd shy away from the $100 HF flux core wire machines. They will not handle bushogs and thicker metals.