How would you drop this tree?

[SwingOak]

We had a near miss from a tornado last summer, and several trees in my woodlot on the farm had the tops broken off. This hickory has always had a sharp lean to it, so the lean is not from the tornado and the trunk and ground around it are sound. The tree is healthy with no signs of rot or decay, and except for having the top broken out is still alive. 

The diameter is somewhere around 36" and maybe a little better at the base. I've considered having someone out to cut the widowmaker out of it and see if the tree survives, but probably will just take it down. I can use the wood for some construction projects in the barn. 

Thought this would be a good topic of discussion - what method would you use to drop this tree?

[barbender]

Those ones with the hung top can be particularly dangerous, that top can work like a kickstand when it hits the ground and send the trunk who knows where. 

[BargeMonkey]

It's really only got 1 way to go, already headed that way. Sharp saw, not much tab, send it and start walking real fast. I would cut it at a comfortable working height because of the lean and hazard, if it was a dead ash from EAB I wouldn't be a fan, that doesn't seem to bad. 

[Ianab]

I'd be using a shallow notch, bore cutting from each side, leaving a holding strap at the back. 

Once you are happy with the setuo, cut the back strap and take large steps away from the impact zone. 

Pretty classic "hazard tree", leaning and a widow maker up top. I'd actually only attempt it Because it's leaning. Means you don't have to work under that widow maker. When you cut the back strap, you start heading down your escape path as soon as you hear the "crack". Like Barbender suggests, it could do something crazy as it lands, so don't hang around.

[barbender]

Yes,  it is one you definitely want to be making tracks from when it starts to go over.

[beenthere]

Exactly what Ianab suggests. 

However, if his description is not understandable, then I'd suggest you back away from the job. Have to cut fast as BargeMonkey suggests, or risk the tree splitting up the middle where you are at risk. 

[Ianab]

However, if his description is not understandable, then I'd suggest you back away from the job.

Yeah, if you have never used bore cutting / back-strap method. that's probably not the tree to learn it on. Practice it on some non-hazard trees first.  But that is the sort of tree where knowing it could save your life. 

[YellowHammer]

I am not a pro faller so take what I say with of what it's worth.  That widow maker branch looks the most treacherous part of the whole thing.  The picture doesn't show how well its hung or if it's just dangling, but for me that is the most dangerous part of putting that tree on the ground.  Many years ago, I was cutting a big black oak, it not leaning, but had a big widow maker limb with branches like that and when I cut the tree down (perfect drop as far as I could tell) and stepped away (not far enough), that branch hit the ground, loaded up like a spring, bounced like a pole vaulting 500 lb tumbleweed and chased me down.  The little whip branches knocked my hardhat off my head.  Nothing serious, but it was like getting hit with a whip, and could have been a lot worse.  It taught me a lot of lessons, one of which was "don't stop walking until the dust settles" on trees like that.

Yours is healthy tree, so that's good for felling, but for me a "cut and step away lively" tree.

[Hilltop366]

If the broken branches are not too high another option would be to pull them off the tree before cutting the tree down.

[Old Greenhorn]

Pretty solid advice from everyone above. I would leave a thicker backstrap than Barge suggested (sorry Eric, no offence) because of an experience I once had where a back strap snapped before I was ready to drop it and I was not in the greatest of positions. It was a heavy leaner like that, but dead, not green which is, of course, different and one of those dead Ashes Barge referred to, nasty stuff. The point of the strap is to drop it when you are ready, on your feet, and it's a quick easy cut with little precision required. If you bore from both sides, your cuts should be parallel, but don't need to meet exactly. They do need to pass each other however (overlap) so the the end grain material between them will just break when you drop it.
 Lastly as others have said, 'get out of there'. My experience with flying debris (although much less than others here) is that statistically (for me) most of that stuff comes straight back when it does come. I had the top 10' stick of a dead ash come straight back at me and pass between my right ear and shoulder, but never touched me, traveling 60' before it landed. (I 'thought' I was far enough back and turned to watch the tree hit the ground. I can still see the slo-mo video in my head as that top stick got bigger and bigger in my view, by the time I moved, it was already past me.) So make sure your exit path is away from the tree at a 45° angle, not straight back, and you should exit with all haste. No telling what that hanger will do, no telling at all. It may fall like a limb noodle, but it may also have other plans and get very 'dynamic' on you.

 Having said all that, I think this should go fine and it's not a tree that should scare an experienced faller. But, proceed with caution and clear your exit path.

[KWH]

I agree with what has been said. Just one more reminder from the safety police. Ware your forestry helmet. One cold day I forgot it. I was lucky enough to get up put on my bloody hat and drive the skidder home. Three days in the hospital with 33 stiches.

[Nealm66]

I would just fall it to the side of its direct lean. It will swing a little and will keep the broken top from Jill poking. I'd probably use a Dunbar, basically a vertical cut on the upper side at the undercut side of the hinge wood, to help strengthen the hold wood. Make sure you get your lower side meat cut up first of course. Nothing to be scared of if done this way

[bluthum]

If that were a black hickory here in my area I'd bet money that it will survive that damage. They are a resilient, tough tree. We had a catastrophic ice storm here about 13 years ago that pulled tons of big limbs off many hickories, I can see a dozen from my yard right now all alive. Only a small percentage died in the next few years.

 All of the widow makers were left and there are still some hanging up there in a place or two. Life has it's hazards and I figure the odds of being under one when it falls is pretty slim in my situation. Of course it's not my place to suggest the hazard in your situation but if you want to keep the tree I'd say no need to cut the stem itself.

I think the felling risks have been well described already, it could be a pretty impressive site when felled.  

[ehp]

If you do cut it wrap a good strong chain around the butt just above where you cutting so tree cannot split in your face . Hickory is bad for that . You have to bore cut it with shallow notch .  I cut most likely 10 black oak like that already this morning all in bad dead cherry wrapped in the oak.  Yep I'm old and fat but can fly when you hear that crack as the tree releases

[barbender]

I have to admit, "how do I fall this tree" or similar is my least favorite thing to see in a thread title. A lot can go wrong and it is hard to give advice on the internet for something so dangerous!

 That tree is a dangerous one even if it didn't have the widowmaker in it. If you haven't cut a lot of large diameter butts, or bore cut, or hard leaners, it is not a good one to learn on.
 

[Woodfarmer]

What have you got for a saw? I'd want at least 70cc plus, no messing around.

[dustintheblood]

I'd climb that and get on the ground from the top down!  Too much fun  8) 8) 8)

[Nealm66]

Never hurts to wrap with a chain and wear a hard hat. Wish I was closer so I could let it down for you. That's the bad thing about bore cutting and trying to leave the strap in the back is it can definitely not work like it says it does on the internet. If you really have to cut it yourself, just cut it like you're trying to fall it to the side of its lean. Don't get deep on the belly side of the lean with your undercut so as to avoid pinching your bar. Get enough cut on the low side with the back cut before the rest of it but not so much you pinch your bar. Then you can actually tickle it the rest of the way down. It will break off but it won't barber chair and you'll have enough time to get away from the butt as it drops. If in doubt, it shouldn't cost that much just to let it down

[SwingOak]

OK just to be clear - I'm not really asking for advice and I know what I would do, just thought it would be a great topic for discussion, and it has been!

And yes, if I were to drop this myself it'd be with a boring cut and I'd chain the tree as others had suggested. No question as to where it wants to go, which is into the woods. And yeah, this is definitely a tree where a clear and wide exit path is required.

I have 5 saws but nothing big enough for this task, so unless I use it as an excuse for a new saw (hmmm...) I'm just going to leave it alone for now, maybe the hanger will come out on its own and it won't hurt anything if it does.

It's right next to the driveway, thus easy access with a bucket truck, so if I decide to take it down I'll probably have someone cut the widow maker out of it and limb it, Once some weight is out of it I'd be more comfortable dropping the stick - but definitely not without more saw.

I've dropped a lot of trees over the years, enough so that it would probably be poetic justice if one did fall on me, but it won't be because I did something stupid with a chainsaw ;D 

[BargeMonkey]

 🤷‍♂️ One of the scariest phone calls I've ever had was "where are you and do you have a saw" because the guy working down the road from me was pinned under a tree. Got to put a grown man in a basket 1/4 mile in the woods crying his eyes out. Saw my father come out of the woods with his face re-arranged like he had went 3 rounds with Tyson, I got slammed into the ground by a limb 1/10 of the size of what you've got and I never saw it coming. 10yrs prior there was 3 fatalities in our area within a few yrs of each other all preventable, guys wife got to find him basically headless up against the stone wall. FF is a great tool but if you think your in over your head I would leave it right there. 


  Run Forrest. 


 The scenario we don't wanna see, not that I don't mind hanging out Tom 😆 


 I honestly blame this picture on the brand of saw 🤷‍♂️. 

[B.C.C. Lapp]

I agree with barbender.  Its real hard to look at a pic and describe the best way to get on.
But having said that this tree isn't a problem really or a tough one.   Sure you got to keep your eye on the widow maker but all in all its a straight forward job. Half the trees in the woods got a loose or hanging limb big enough to bust you up. Its the ones you cant see due to leaves and whatnot that are really dangerous.  So you always just figure there may be something with every tree that could ruin your day.  But when the tree starts to go your not going to be there anyway if you have planned and cleared your escape route. 
Open the notch with the face cut first.   Then make your bottom cut to complete the notch. You got to make sure your cuts meet properly and you haven't under or over cut.  That would effect the strength and steering ability of your notch.
Next bore cut in behind the notch and come up to within about an inch and a bit more. Then cut just a little of the sap wood on the inside lean side so your not going to get to much fiber pull or split the log.  Next cut in from the leaned toward side across the back making the first half of the T you'll need.   Pop a wedge in so it don't lean even farther. Cut the other side and there it goes while you walk away at an angle back and to the side.  You don't stay directly behind it.  
Its only the first 10,000 trees or so that's tough.  Get through those and you start getting the hang of it. :D

[lshobie]

Let nature take it's course on that one, it'll most likely be down by the spring.  Then take the tree down if you need to.

[Hogdaddy]

‍♂️ One of the scariest phone calls I've ever had was "where are you and do you have a saw" because the guy working down the road from me was pinned under a tree. Got to put a grown man in a basket 1/4 mile in the woods crying his eyes out. Saw my father come out of the woods with his face re-arranged like he had went 3 rounds with Tyson, I got slammed into the ground by a limb 1/10 of the size of what you've got and I never saw it coming. 10yrs prior there was 3 fatalities in our area within a few yrs of each other all preventable, guys wife got to find him basically headless up against the stone wall. FF is a great tool but if you think your in over your head I would leave it right there.


  Run Forrest.


 The scenario we don't wanna see, not that I don't mind hanging out Tom 


 I honestly blame this picture on the brand of saw ‍♂️.

I've had bad days, but none quite like that bottom picture.. :D :D

[Hogdaddy]

Bore it like others have said, but when you cut the strap, cut it off up higher.. the tree will hold slightly longer, as it will shear the wood slightly. And have a good escape route cut. You should be ok, but like everyone else has said, if you don't feel 95% comfortable, don't cut it.

[Walnut Beast]

Lapp & Hogdaddy  said one of the most important things!! Have a planned escape route!!!! Any little trees in the way or broken branches that you could trip over or hold you up!!!!