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How to do windows?

Started by Doug_D, August 14, 2009, 10:31:44 AM

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Doug_D

Hello all,

I will be putting down some logs this weekend and really need to put to rest how I will be installing the windows.   I looked at the ILBA information and a couple of other sites, but all seem to have different schools of thought. 

I am using 8X8 "D Logs"  that have been kerf cut and kiln dried so hopefully I will not experience too much settling.  The windows have the usual nail flange (Pella) to create a good seal.

I am pretty good with a router and would like to try and flush the windows, but not sure how to do this and still account for settling and create a good seal.  I have seen where the logs are "cut back" and the bucks installed even with the cutback line.
Any help on this subject would be great!

Thanks,
Doug

Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

Doug_D

I think I asked too broad of question.

Let me try this one, when setting in window bucks, how far do you set back? 

I am using Pella Proline windows that have an 1-3/8" nail fin that is set back 1.5" from the window face.  I plan on using 3/4" thick trim and don't mind routing a flat space around the window.  I am very concerned about leaving areas that could accumulate water. 

Still trying to put together the best method for sealing and finishing around these windows.  Any help would be great!

Thanks,
Doug

Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

shinnlinger

Dug,

I don't know why you aren't getting much response.  I am unfamiliar with log homes and Pella windows, but that said I will suggest you try to not set the windows deep at all.  I assume the windows have a vinyl or aluminum face and can fend for themselves if the protrude from your house much and any kind of exposed sill will catch snow and elements.  Let me put a plug in here for a big overhang on your roof too.  That will do alot to protect your sides and windows.

Would it be easier to cut your window holes 1-1/2" too large all the way around and then make a window buck out of 2x pushed out as far as possible?  You could then install the window and squirt some minimally expanding foam on the inside to seal and make some extension jambs to whatever you needed and trim the inside.  Then rip a bunch of 2x stock up into 1-1/2 strips and pre-build and pre paint them  and install them around your windows on the outside.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

breederman

That's basically how ours are done. you can spline the sides of the buck to allow for any log settling and leave a space over the top of the buck, fill it with fiberglass. you don't want any fasteners in the end of your logs, or you will have a gap as they settle.
Together we got this !

jander3

The 2000 Log building standards has a fair picture that shows window installation (keyway, jam, exterior finish) on page 65 that might help. 


http://www.logassociation.org/resources/ilbastandards.pdf

Doug_D

Thanks for the help guys.  I have looked over the log building standards and that helped a bunch.  I am concerned about water getting in behind the trim getting to the exposed (and usually untreated) log ends. In normal 2x construction, flashing tape would be used to make a tight seal around the sides of the window and keep any water from getting in there. I am not too worried about getting infiltration as the keyway\spline and gasket material will take care of that, but water sitting behind trim and in from of the keyway does not sit well    ???

For splines I really would like to to use 3/4" red oak as I am more setup for dealing with wood than metal.  But if I need to, I can get and cut angle iron.  Cutting 2"x2"X1/4" angle iron would not be fun with the tools I have.....hmmm maybe time for a new tool  ;)

Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

shinnlinger

Doug,

Again I will bring up big overhangs...  Especially with a log house, they will serve you well.  Traditionally overhangs weren't popular due to ice dams, but with modern insulation and newer vented "cold roof" knowhow they are a good idea IMO.

I made little brows for some windows I had using conventional galvy drip edge.  I bent it at the last rib up 90 degrees and nailed it.  They covered over the top of my two inch thick trim nicely.  A little clear caulk and I think you would be in business...
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

Doug_D

I am going to put 24" of overhang anywhere there is not a covered porch.   This should leave 4 windows that are uncovered.  All the entry doors and 4 other windows will be covered by roof (porch roof).

I may put some drip edge on the four that are not covered.  Good idea.
Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

shinnlinger

I like the sound of your overhang.  If it is only 4, I saw  today some cute wooden brows over some windows.  Came out at a 45 degree angle off the house.  You could use cedar and scribe each one and make some fancy side supports if you really wanted to go for it.
Shinnlinger
Woodshop teacher, pasture raised chicken farmer
34 horse kubota L-2850, Turner Band Mill, '84 F-600,
living in self-built/milled timberframe home

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