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cuting with a timbco

Started by timberjack97, November 01, 2013, 08:06:28 PM

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timberjack97

i   have try  to run my  timbco  for some days  now  my timbco  has a barsaw  head  on it  standard head  no 360 rotate   i  m having  trouble  cutting through the tree with it any advice  would help me like how far to tilt my head when cutting a tree  or what the tricks are to running it  i think i m puting to much pressure when im cutting my bar keeps geting pinched  and hits the  metal when i bring the bar back  in 

Corley5

  The bar surely shouldn't hit anything metal at any time unless there's something else wrong.  There should be a flow control somewhere to set the bar feed speed.  Are your chains sharp and sharpened correctly ???
  I tip the tree just a bit after I grip it with my Fabtek then cut it off.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

loggah

I think you are putting to much pressure tipping the tree while trying to cut it!!! if it hits metal on the return thats half your problem.I'm sure you are dulling the teeth a bit on one side,a chain dulled even a little on one side will not  saw thru a tree.you would have to keep sawing and returning the saw ,over and over again with a dull chain.
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

timberjack97

yes  i grab the tree  and  tilt it forward and try to cut it  is that much tiltiling the head

Corley5

I tip it just so the tree barely moves.  Don't tip it so much that the root ball starts to come up.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

timberjack97

do  you  put  any up pressure on it as your cuting the tree?

Corley5

Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

loggah

you just barely want to put tension on it!!
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

timberjack97

?do  you think i could be grabing the tree to tight

loggah

there is no such thing as grabbing to tight,its tweaking the boom,or stick after the stem is grabbed that will cause the trouble. I think the best thing to do would be to find another barsaw saw operator in your area to try your machine ,to see if there is a problem,or give you some pointers. It could also be the plate the sawbar bolts to could be twisted a little , that would really screw things up . Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

timberjack97

i  think its just me because when i put a brand new chain on it cuts right through it the first time  its after i try to cut another tree is when i start having the trouble  i always make sure the bolts that hold the bar on are tight they come lose after awile of runing it

Brleclaire

Are you hitting the bottom of head when you are retracting the bar or when you are sawing

nath78

I had that same issue with my head when I first got it put a new bar on even with a sharp chain you will have tilt in chain if the rails are spread apart

Jamie_C

If you are putting too much lift on the tree while trying to cut it down the head will actually slip up the trunk of the tree a little and push the bar out of line causing it to stop cutting and when it retracts it will be bouncing like a diving board once it clears the butt of the tree and will likely hit the head and dull your chain. If you are applying steady pressure to the joysticks then it will be even worse as the head will keep slipping up the tree little by little as you are cutting.

Grab the tree, apply a slight lift pressure straight up and then cut your tree off, if you start tipping the tree over while your bar is in the cut then you will be bending bars and chains constantly.

Gary_C

All good advice. Each machine and head combination has little things to watch out for that can cause cutting problems. Unfortunately you need to learn the right way by trial and error and you are going to wreck some bars learning what not to do.

Be especially careful when you put that slight up pressure on the head that you do not even slightly pull the tree back towards you inadvertantly. That will pinch the bar every time. Sometimes where there is the slightest doubt on larger trees, I will push or tilt forward just slightly on the head, but not enough to force the tree to tip too early.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

timberjack97

so   what i need  to do  is   grab the tree with the completly touching the ground  and  aply verry little up pressure on it   and cut  the tree off straight  through then is that right?

Ken

I only rarely but up pressure on the head when cutting.  I will however apply a bit of swing pressure to the boom to help with the falling direction.  I'm assuming your head automatically tips when you hit the saw button.  If you have to hit the saw button more than once to cut the tree it's time to file. 
Lots of toys for working in the bush

barbender

I think it would be a little different game with the fixed head/barsaw combo. They don't "dump" like a dangle head, right?
Too many irons in the fire

Jamie_C

If i remember correctly he has a feller buncher with a saw bar head, it wouldn't have the auto-tip function that dangle head processors have.

Gary_C

On my Ponsse 73E head, you can set or disable the auto tilt feature. But on big and heavy trees, it doesn't make any difference. The two small tilt cylinders will not do much anyway.

On my old Valmet 960 head you could force tilt a tree, but I also had a lot of trouble with seals in the tilt cylinder and I broke a rod once. Trying to hold a tree upright can be a problem that overloads the tilt cylinder.

Ken is right, lifting before or during a cut is trouble. You really just have to be sure you are not pulling back or holding down.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

timberjack97

yes  my  timbco  head  doesnt  tillt like that its  not a 360  head  it has the older style barsaw on it  i  m just going to grab the tree  and barly tilt the head at all  and try to cut straight through the tree is that right ?

Rob Shaffer

If your having any issues with your chain you can check out WWW.chain-serts.com. works great on harvesters and slashers.

Corley5

Quote from: Rob Shaffer on November 04, 2013, 08:38:34 AM
If your having any issues with your chain you can check out WWW.chain-serts.com. works great on harvesters and slashers.


Are using them or selling them  ;D :)  They look interesting  8) but pricey :-\
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Rob Shaffer

Our small family owned company finally started making them after 10 years of development and testing, They save a bunch on downtime. On a side note, I think I need to talk to the admin before I can talk about them anymore. Im not sure of the rules, am I allowed to promote new products on here?

thecfarm

Better ask Jeff first. Go to the menu bar,starts out with home,help,click on to my messages,than send a message,put Jeff in and you are all set.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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