Barn window framing

[Jpd]

Greetings all

I wanted to ask the group about framing the studs and nailers around my windows.  Three separate windows in the three defined spaces.  I have drawn them as half lap, 4x4 white pine.  Vertical tongue and groove inner sheathing, foam board, then crossed furring and vertical board and batten siding.  Is there a better method?  Should the studs be uninterruped?  

Attached screenshot for clarity.  '
Thank you!

[Prizl tha Chizl]

Is this framing exposed? If not, the  few finished timber frame  homes I've been in the window, door, and all other infill framing was just nailed down 2x4 or2x6 like in a stick framed home, covered in drywall or paneling.

We planned our purlin heights to match our window design and then screwed the vertical framing to them, like I see in barn windows around here. It couldn't hurt to have the added strength of your full length studs, but I'm not sure how much that adds after you notch them. Your tongue and groove is probably holding things up pretty well already.

It bothered me a little bit at first to not be doing something fancy at those joints, but it seems like the old timers here were happy to use nails at this detail, and honestly by the time we got to framing the windows I was happy to get er done.


 

[Don P]

Structurally something needs to be uninterrupted between points of support that are part of the "continuous load path'. If it is girts then check their capacity and the posts they attach to, if studs check the diaphragm and support above and below. Are there other loads or elements that dictate or would prefer one orientation over another. For instance often I've seen people frame on piers as if they were over a continuous foundation wall, and then wonder why things sagged. 

To expand on PtC's observation. I've encountered lots of 4x4 studs tenoned into sills that created water holding pockets that ended up rotting out both the sill and stud.

[Jpd]

Thanks guys for the response

Prizl,
the structure will be exposed, so im trying to find sound but visible joints

Don
Im trying to process switching from understanding stick framing (basic level, I was in the finish carpentry world).  Since I am using vertical inner sheathing, my horizontal nailers should take priority.  I haven't submitted anything to the building department yet, but im guessing that they will want to see sill to girt connection as well.  All sill stud joints will be the 45 degree pocket, nailed, for drainage if needed.  what would you recommend for a joint to bring in the vertical member?  

sorry if this is a confusing question, im new to timber frame design so bear with me!

I have seen no similar joinery on this site or books or the web at large, but I know folks have put windows in barns before, so there has to be precedent.

Thanks again
jp

[Prizl tha Chizl]

Right, what he said. I'm assuming your girts are sized to carry  the roof and floor loads. I never see full length studs in exterior walls in barns here, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't help. They literally nail a little infill blocking between purlins to frame in the windows. Since purlins are typically 4x4 here, they're counting on the vertical siding for some help in holding it all up, but no matter the math, gravity has time on its side.

My version figured the weight of the windows in the purlin sizing and span, but was otherwise similar. It seems like that's the only extra load you should need to be sorting out, if you're transferring it to the girt/beam below them then that wants  to be sized accordingly. My purlins haven't sagged yet, but if they're lucky gravity will have more than one  lifetime to work on them. 

[Jpd]

Prizl,
When you say purlin, maybe you mean nailer?  Just want to clarify terms... purlin being roofing horizontal member, nailer being wall horizontal member?  

Otherwise, yes my intention is to have the girts sized to carry load, and the studs just supporting the windows. My initial thought was to just infill between the two horizontal nailers, to define the window spacing, but maybe I am overthinking that the inspector may want to see sill to girt vertical studs.  

I will run this by the engineer that is checking my drawings.  

Thanks for all the thoughts guys, if anyone else has any further information, it would be greatly appreciated!

Jp

[Prizl tha Chizl]

Yes, we might be using different  words, but we're talking about the same member. 

I live in SW Wisconsin. Barn builders further east might have had a more refined approach. Inspectors and engineers are likely  have opinions as well.

[timberframe]

I have actually used window dividers/framing to help girts/wall plates/ties that are over loaded or deflecting more than the engineer wanted.  Normally the engineers I've spoken with don't consider 6x6 as much of a member, but in scenarios were plates were overloaded, I asked if I could just place a vertical 6x6 mid span and use it as a divider between two windows but also help take some load, and he was all for it.  In this situation it needed to be uninterrupted, but I was allowed to put a housing on the side to receive the end of a horizontal member (just toe screwed in to remove as little from the vertical member as possible),  where the window can sit.  I have used this a couple of times to get around having to use bigger timbers.  

B