Ford 540 vs 445... Now 545 D

[mike_belben]

Ive only seen him twice and it was a long time ago.. I think hes a big dude with a walrus mustache but i cant picture him anymore.  I talked to him on the phone a few years back so he was still there. Might be the owner i dunno.  


John hardface the mild steel on the heel.  Thats what will wear thin the fastest now that youve got a new hard edge. 

[thecfarm]

Diesel heater? I don't get out much, never heard of one. 
The enclosed cab will help out, even with no heat.
We kept a forklift at work, with an enclose cab, inside. It did have a heater, but most times I was not outside much more than a ½ hour at a time.

[chevytaHOE5674]

I'd opt for the grapple on the bucket and not on the loader. Having the grapple always on would get in the way for a lot of things in my case. Heck I have 2 grapple buckets (a demo bucket and a hay grapple bucket). And hate using them unless I need the grapple as it seems the tongs are always digging into something or in the way. Ha.

[Ljohnsaw]

John hardface the mild steel on the heel. That's what will wear thin the fastest now that you've got a new hard edge.

Mike, are you saying the heel of the bucket or the heel of the cutting edge?  I've already laid a bunch of hardface on the worn skids at the rear of the bucket.

I called Titan about my cutting edge the day before it arrived.  FedEx hadn't scanned the tag in 9 days.  Titan considered it lost so set up another to ship to me.  Then FedEx found and delivered my original edge.  So I called Titan to have them cancel the replacement.  They said it just left :-\ and I should just keep it when it arrives ;D  So, if you look at the bucket in the last picture, you can see where the side panel is really worn and under cut at the new cutting edge.  I'm going to torch that off and replace with pieces cut from the extra cutting edge.  Be going up from 3/8" to 5/8" on that edge.

[mike_belben]

yeah the back heel of the bucket.  good deal on the extra edge. 

[Ljohnsaw]

r>
 I just picked this up at BidRL for $65.  $209 on Amazon.  Cat 1 so I hope it will work on my 545D.  I didn't realize they just slip on (with some stabilizing bolts and such).  I thought I'd have to drill and/or cut something.  I have my Gannon on the tractor now and didn't think I would ever take it off.  But with 8' for snow, I got to thinking I might want to invest in a PTO snow thrower!

Back when I had a ranch, I had an old (61?) Case 210B with an Eagle Claw hitch.  It was pretty worn but I did like it.  Got pretty good at hitching up things that were not too level.

[subarctic_moose]

John, a little late to the party here but I enjoy all your posts.

Glad to see you ended up with a 4wd and a working PTO. I was struggling with the used tractor market last winter and ended up buying a new Branson (same factory as TYM I think), 40hp 4wd. I run a grapple and chipper in the summer and bucket / blower in the winter. I'll probably switch to plow/blower for efficiency's sake.

The chipper has been a godsend for dealing with tree waste (Woodmax 8h) and a grapple is really clutch for moving trees around on uneven terrain. Only thing I would say is don't discount chains as a crucial part of your setup if you're operating in the snow at all. Sierra cement got me good until I put chains on the rear. A lot of guys up here run them on all 4 wheels, but I just run the rears for now. 

The H-Duo pattern works pretty well in the deep stuff and cost about $600. I didn't feel the need to spring $1k for aquilline's since we're dealing with more deep slush than ice. All in all I wouldn't have a chance of getting up my driveway without chains when I'm coming back from blowing snow off our road. 

Good luck with the build and property development, and stay safe on that uneven stuff. Gives me the heeby-jeebies every time I start side hilling with a log in the grapple, and I buckle-up 100% when I'm in that terrain. Cheers! 

[subarctic_moose]

Forks in use.
The forks are manual for width adjustment, if thats what you're asking?
Did you get the PTO control fix worked up?

@Andries nice ballast block, how much weight is that thing giving you? The chipper gives me about 1k, but I see the value in something that doesn't stick out another 5-8' when you're working in the woods.

Edit- just saw your post about it being 2k lbs. Nice!

[Ljohnsaw]

Good luck with the build and property development, and stay safe on that uneven stuff. Gives me the heeby-jeebies every time I start side hilling with a log in the grapple, and I buckle-up 100% when I'm in that terrain. Cheers!

No seat belt on mine.  I bought one from TSC but snow came so I'm down the hill now.  Got my bucket done and got the back plate built for the forks.  What snow blower did you get?  Do you like it?  How wide?  What'd it cost?

[subarctic_moose]

I took a chance on a 60" Braber/AgriEase. Got a deal on it slightly used for 2k, normally costs 2.6k. It does come out of a factory in who-knows-where China, but as someone pointed out to me there's only so many moving parts you can screw up at the factory when you're making a blower. It's been great so far and it's amazing to see it throw heavy slush 40'+.

If my neighbor wasn't plowing the main road in his SSL I might have tried to go wider. Mostly I just maintain my own road and make a pass behind him to widen the road after the banks build up. Either way it is not a fast process. I heard a good rule of thumb about 5-6 hp at the PTO per foot of blower width. No matter what try and cover the width of the wheels so that you're not driving over snow the blower didn't pick up.

[chevytaHOE5674]

More important than horsepower with a blower is slow ground speed. The slower you go the better. 

That said a 545D with the 8 speed fwd/rev has a low reverse of like 1.7mph. While that may seem slow if your trying to blow any amount of snow you will be riding the clutch a lot.

[Ljohnsaw]

Good to know.  I plan on also getting a combo V/angle plow that I saw on the Titian site (IIRC).  I'd V the first pass, then angle each side.  The blower would be used to get rid of excess bank build up.  So I'm thinking I'd be scraping a foot or two off the edge of the road with each pass of the blower.  Sound doable?

[subarctic_moose]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I can't wait to run the blower and plow combo, the plow is exponentially quicker at getting the road open. Others might disagree but I haven't found much use the bucket in the winter. Maybe in flatter terrain it would be more useful, but not really in the Sierras.

We had a 3-4" base of packed, cold snow after the December storms, even after plowing. The plow can only get so close to the surface on uneven dirt roads. It was great to drive on and I could cruise 2wd with snow tires all day. Then the rain storm came around New Years and turned it into 3-4" of absolute hell. Talking 4wd with snow tires, pinned and barely making it through.

So we went out and plowed again and were able to get all the slush to the sides. If we hadn't we'd still be dealing with slush-sheet ice combos, nasty stuff. I messed up and didn't get it off my own driveway before it compacted and I'm still dealing with it a month later.



 

Oh well, at least it adds some excitement to my wife's morning commute 

If you do get chains, tirechainsrus.com is a great source. Just be careful on making sure you order what you want in the correct size the first time. Shipping is free when you buy 'em, but if you want to return them you're on the hook for $250+ to send them back.

[newoodguy78]

Just make sure you blow the banks back as soon as you can. Letting them sit and get hard leads to carnage in my experience. Like has been said the slower the better, less is more. 

[Ljohnsaw]

I thought I posted about my tire leaking but didn't see it.  Anyhow, left front was leaking down slow so I pulled it off the tractor and brought it home.  A veeeeeeery tiny leak at the bead.  Took it to the automotive tire shop.  They said the bead was a little messed up and they used some rubber cement like stuff.  Still leaks down.  So I took it to the truck tire place to have them put a tube in it.  They said the sidewall was rotted and that would be a waste of time tubing.  So I bought a new tire ($449 later...).  Then got to thinking the other tire might be an issue as it is the same age (unknown).  I don't want it going out when I'm up working in the summer.  I'd also like the diameters to match since the new tire is over twice the lug height of the worn out tires.  So pulled the right one and its at the shop right now (man, they are slooooow to get the job done).  Hopefully I can pick it up tomorrow first thing and go up the hill to reinstall.  Snow is supposed to come in over the weekend.

Time to pick the brain trust.  The lug nuts are flat but the rims have a taper to the holes.  It uses these lock washers in the taper.  I'm missing one and would like to buy some from somewhere but I can't seem to get a hit on what they are.  To me, a "conical lock washer" but that don't work - Google thinks I want "comical lock washers" :-\  I've hit up Tractor Supply Center (TSC), Ace Hardware, HD, the truck tire shop and several other tractor shops.  The nearest New Holland (Ford) dealer is 90 minutes in the wrong direction.  The only place I didn't hit was NAPA.  No picture in my huge manual I bought.


 

 They measure out at 1-1/8" outside, 3/4" inside but they are probably metric since this tractor was made in Antwerp.  So, what's the name and/or where can I find them?

[chevytaHOE5674]

Only place I ever get them is the new holland dealer. I have a package for one hanging on the wall and its part # 83932847. Last ones I bought were $6.xx a piece. Order a couple they have a habit of cracking to pieces on occasion.

[Ljohnsaw]

Been a while.  I got 4 new lock washers (bushings), so I have some spares and now the tires are done.

Tuesday I mounted up the new ripper teeth on the rippers and reinstalled those as well.  I finally got around to finishing up the 4wd driveshaft cover.  First try was too shallow and hit the driveshaft.  So I made the mount ears much bigger (too big?) and it's on there now:


 

 I made it out of a section of 4" x 4" x 1/8" tube and torched off one side.  It is even (height-wise) with the rear gear box but hangs a little below the front diff.  I might take it off and shorten the front mount (make new slots) to pick up that end a little.  The 4" wide is just wide enough that the spline bolts don't hit.

I also ran a pair of 3/8" hydraulic hose from the rear to the front to power my grapple when I get the last pieces in this week or next.  I will use the disconnects from the ripper bar on the Gannon box to power the front rams.  That way I don't have to figure out how to add another valve to the systems.  They might not be fast but they should be handy!

[Andries]

Nice work John.
That's tricky one to fab up - lots of angles and strange attachment points.



You must be getting close to your starting your road building projects, no?
I'm really looking forward to seeing that plan come together . . .  you've been doing prep work for so long.

[Ljohnsaw]

I took the easy way out and just used some square tube I had laying around.  Got it to fit on the second try.  I need to pull that mid-shaft pillow block bearing.  It's missing the set screws and looks to have wallered out or maybe wore the shaft.  Not sure what I'm gonna do but it doesn't seem to need that support.  Not sure why there is a mid support when each end of a solid shaft is supported.

My "road" building project is now on hold.  I had lined up CalTrans to dump some waste dirt they piled up just 1 mile from my place.  A good 500 yards of it!  They said they can't do it - have to have it go to an approved waste disposal site or some such nonsense.  Something about chain of custody on some dirt that was removed from a land slide zone.  Crazy.  Now they have to spend a ton of money for no extra benefit.

[NCHorselogger]

Good evening.  This is my first time in the Forestry Forum as I just joined last week.  However, I have been reading threads via searches for many years.  So, I'd like to thank all for the wealth of information.  I have a small horse logging business in North Carolina and have recently added a sawmill to value add for my clients.  But horses can't pick things up (well) and I'm in big need of a loader.  I have enjoyed these threads on the ford 545ds and have identified a couple.  Anything I should be looking for on them or major concert?  I have found two that are both under 2000 hours and single owners. Well maintained.  One is a newer 1998 model with a fancy heated and cooled cab.  The other is an 85 model with enclosed cab.  The 85 has less hours (1800) and ss quick exchange.  And, owner spent quite a bit recently having all lines/hoses replaced.  They are priced near the same.  Any difference in the years on these units?  I think either would work and neither is cheap but I'd rather pay a bit more for something I know has been well cared for....  Any insights would be appreciated.  And thanks again for all the knowledge shared on this site.

[KWH]

Are they 2 or 4 wheel drive?  I own two both 4 wheel drive a 545c no cab with 4post protection and a 445d with a cab. The 545 was easier to get o and off of. But cab is nicer in rain snow and windy weather. The loader hydraulics are  fast and strong 20 gpm and 4400 lbs lift. The torque converter is a plus for loader work.

[NCHorselogger]

They are both 4wd and both have shuttle shift.  They seem to be comparable with the main difference being that one is 13 years younger.

[Andries]

Do either of the loaders have a backhoe on them?

[NCHorselogger]

No sir.  No backhoes on these.

[NCHorselogger]

Both machines are in great condition.  I'm mostly wondering if this is the best machine for me.  I would be using it for stacking at landings and loading out a straight truck and feeding my sawmill.  I know these have a low clearance so that would be one concern but I would mostly be skidding with draft horses.  In addition, we also do building and timber framing, so a machine that could move timbers around and do light dirt work would be handy.