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Ford 540 vs 445... Now 545 D

Started by Ljohnsaw, September 23, 2021, 12:27:42 PM

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Andries

Good Q and A you two.
Thanks, I'm learning as we go here .  . .
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Ljohnsaw

Couple of ideas:

My Gannon box has 4 rams/8 hoses without quick disconnects.  I really doubt I will ever want to remove it but I do want to have a receiver available to tow a wood trailer or my log arch.  What would be the best way of including that?  I have quite a few Reese car/truck hitches available to cannibalize.  I could mount something across the top (too high?), face mount on the blade or burn a hole and flush mount.  Ideas/comments?  Pictures?

When I do the QA on the loader, thinking of a way to remotely activate the latches.  I have a 12v actuator with 700+ lbs of force.  Really simple to run wires.  Anyone done something like this?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Andries

At my last construction gig, I would see guys digging in the ground with forks. Then a day later, another guy is rolling logs around with a bucket. 
Hacking around, screwing up equipment and gouging up the logs. "It takes too long to change over, and I just need do this quick!"   ::) 
That loader was replaced by an IT version of a Cat articulated loader, a tool carrier. It was set up so that grapple, forks, or bucket could be changed out from the operators seat. With that loader, the same guys were swapping out the attachments a bunch of times per day.
.
Moral of the story; make it easy to change over to the right tool for the job.
If you're going with quick attach at the front, maybe you could fab up a quick hitch for the back.
They're not too complex - the hardest thing would prolly be making the handles and latches for the  lower arms, and cutting thick metal. 


 
Sounds like your loader was a dedicated road builder. Gannon box, switched to wood wagon, switched to a log arch and back, is going to be a chore for you without hydraulic quick disconnects at a minimum.
Is your setup something like this top and tilt setup?



You mentioned eight hoses on your machine. There's four hoses in the pic above, you'll have another pair to feed the frost hooks on the Gannon box; whats the remaining two hoses for? . . .just wondering?
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Ljohnsaw

The left and right rams are independent on my Gannon.  So, 2 for left, 2 for right, 2 for top link and 2 for rippers.  Should the left and right be plumbed together, just opposite and free up a spool?  Seems like it might get out of sync at some point.  Maybe not - that is how my steering works on my SkyTrak and this tractor.  With the 4 independent currently and a lot of practice, I think you could do some fancy stuff the way it is.

I don't plan to, nor want to, take the Gannon off.  I was just commenting on it would take a lot of disconnects (and new, shorter hoses?)!  I want it to stay on as ballast.  Sure, it adds a bit of length when hauling a trailer or arch but I have 10 acres to turn around! ;)  I'm just trying to get the pros and cons on adding a receiver tube on the Gannon box and the placement.  Will it just get stuffed with dirt/gravel when doing dirt work?  How high is too high (on the top edge of the rear blade)?  I got a lot of different drop hitches to slide in so I *think* higher would be better.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

stavebuyer

I used to use an old army water trailer frame as a forwarding trailer behind my tractor which had a home-rolled 3pt winch cut off the front of an army 5-ton. The trailer was pintle hitch so I mounted one of those pintle/ball combos on the tractor winch. Worked great as with a rope to release the latch on the pintle I could drop and hook from the tractor seat.

Ljohnsaw

Andries,
I see your pictures playing around in the snow.  Do you see the need for snow chains?  Or chains in general for the mud?  Your pictures show pretty flat terrain - I'm far from that.  I'm heading out to pick up a barrel of truck chains (for potential recycle steel) and wondering if I should cobble them together to fit the tractor for snow/mud.  Or would they be too light weight?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Andries

Yep, I'm in flatland Prairie out here. 
Our snow is a dry material. The cold and the wind are the challenges. Snow clearing after a blizzard or drifts from high winds are a regular part of winter life.


 
I don't own chains for fronts or rears. The front wheel drive is key, the more snow in the bucket, the better the traction. But, the rears need a bunch of weight to counterbalance that.



There's 2000 lbs of cement hanging on the three point arms in this photo. 
So, that's me and snow, but mud and soft ground are a complete other story - the stuff of legends for anyone that's messed around with off-road machinery.
Our 545D machines are HEAVY, and have about 12 - 14" of ground clearance. Rough terrain and mud are going to be a challenge because of that. You had mentioned road building much earlier on. . . . just a guess here, but building your way into an area is how I might approach that. Working in the dry season, having gravel or pit run material stockpiled and packing it down while you're pushing in road works. 
Dunno, the chains might help with that, or they might also just get you bogged, but way further down a rough trail.  ??? 


LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Ljohnsaw

Just thinking out loud.  With these big lug/ag tires on the back, I don't see much benefit with chains.  My past experience with these tires is they can quite efficiently dig down and get you stuck in mud or loose earth, PDQ.  So I don't see chains helping there much.  The front tires are like snow tires, not so much big lug.  Chains *might* help there.

But, for snow, maybe more benefit?  On ice probably needed.  But, if things are that bad, what the heck am I doing out there! :D  Just not sure if these semi ladder style chains would be any good for my application.  I could make diamond patterns if I get really motivated.

On the drive home, I briefly contemplated making a set of 4 for the SkyTrak since it has absolutely zero tread and 1/2" of snow makes for some excitement.  Then I came to my senses - I have a tractor to clear the snow if needed.  And I wouldn't be doing milling or construction when there is a bunch of snow, anyhow!  When I'm done with the cabin, the plan is to try and sell the SkyTrak and just use the tractor for the mill.

So, I have a 55 gallon barrel worth of semi chains in my truck that each needs some attention to make them workable.  Probably right around 1,000 pounds - maybe more.  Right now, my best plan is to scrap them and take the $100-150 they are worth to the recycler.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

stavebuyer

I logged with a large 2wd farm tractor. Chains made a huge difference.

Andries

Seeing as how you've got chain available, maybe you want to hedge your bets. The front tires made an enormous difference when I changed up from the two wheel drive 545C to the 545D. 
If you make up chains for the fronts, rather than the rears, you won't have to worry about taking off a fender if they work loose. Also, helping the pulling power is one big benefit, the other is much better steering control.
Wouldn't take much chain for the fronts compared to the rears .
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Andries on November 04, 2021, 07:41:14 PMSeeing as how you've got chain available, maybe you want to hedge your bets.
Welp, too little, too late...  I took 1,042 pounds of chain to the recycler and got $135 for them.  I was so tempted to keep a pair but decided no.  Oh well.  Maybe either buy the right size or another deal will come along.  I can always scan the sides of the freeway going up to my property and pick up broken chains at the end of the snow season.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

newoodguy78

 

 
Road trip yesterday to pick up a different manure spreader lead to finding these 50 bucks apiece. Chalking it up as a win

newoodguy78

@chevytaHOE5674  have you ever messed with swapping injector pumps from different engines that are in these tractors? 
What do the numbers on the side of the pump designate?
I know physically they will bolt on and have changed out pumps in the past on other fords.
Also do you know how many pounds of compression these little 3 cylinders are supposed to have?
I've got a project in mind.

chevytaHOE5674

Put chains on the front tires and you will wonder how you got along without them in the snow. I've made up sets for the fronts of all 4 of my MFWD tractors if the snow gets deep or things get icy you will be amazed at where you can go.

I've installed plenty of reman pumps. The numbers on the pumps I'm sure tell you the build date/location/pump calibration/etc, but I have no idea how to decode that, and most of the original pumps are so old there's no numbers left lol. What would be the reason for swapping pumps around?

As for compression 350-400 is pretty good. Shoot for no more than 50psi variation across the board. My experience is 300 or less and they get hard to start when cold.

newoodguy78

Kind of a long story. When I bought the 445a the previous owner had bought it sight unseen to replace the one he had and really liked but had burned up. Pretty sure the old chaffed battery cable trick caused it.
It was a much higher hour machine and had the power reversing transmission, which does not have a pto and isn't an option to add. His primary use was bush hogging so it essentially had no use to him . Made a deal and bought both for a very reasonable price.
I'm thinking I'd like to get the cooked one running just to see if the motor is good. Don't believe it got that hot I've seen much worse.
Thought was I'd get the pump redone from the cooked one put it on the one we use everyday that needs to be resealed and use it to get the burnt one running. But the numbers don't match...
Clear as mud right  :D
Just to further the confusion motor from the power reversing one is now attached to the rear end of the burned one and is going like a champ

chevytaHOE5674

I would talk a good pump rebuilder and see what they say. I've had a couple of pumps rebuild to a different spec before, really no big deal.

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: newoodguy78 on October 29, 2021, 10:19:27 PM

 This is the guard under our 445 , suspect yours would be the same.
Newoodguy78, questions on the driveshaft guard.  

What are those handle like things mid span for?  At that same point, you've got a pair of holes that are on the bottom - I don't see a place on mine where they would be needed (but didn't look too close).  Were there long bolts there into the transmission?  Or access to the center bearing zerks?  They made the guard from two pieces of metal with the center gap.  I'm assuming to save weight, make it cheaper?  Possibly to allow mud to be washed out?

I measured 52" overall length by myself so may not be accurate - does yours measure up the same?  Kind of looks like it in the picture.  

On the sides of each end are mounting holes, what is the center-to-center distance on those? Or the distance from the ends given a known length will work as well.  Do you or @Andries have a side view of the guard/skid plate?  From my measurements, I'm thinking the rear mount is up higher and might need to make accommodations for that when I cut the tube.

I have a piece of 4" x 4" x 1/8" or 3/16" wall tube.  I'm planning on torching one side off.  What is the measurement from the mounting holes at each end on yours to the bottom (when mounted)?  I want to make mine deep enough but not too deep that is subtracts from the little ground clearance I have.  I also got a outside the mounting tabs measurement of ~5" front ~4.75" rear.  I'll have to notch the sides of the 4" tube and bend them out for mounting unless I put the guard on the inside of the tabs (looks doable).  The tractor is an hour away so I'm fabbing at home and want it to fit without too many trips back and forth.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

newoodguy78

Not around the tractor right now I'll take some pictures with a tape measure tomorrow for you. No idea what the freight would be but if you pay that to the forum I'll send you the one I'm not using 

Ljohnsaw

Thanks.  Other than a template, I don't think I'd want to use a stock cover.  Since I'm more off-roading it, I want something very heavy duty.  A picture from the side is going to be the most useful to me right now.

I think I measured that I need a minimum of 2¾" from the bottom of the tractor to the bottom of the drive line.  But, the mounting tabs are actually floating below the bottom of the tractor so I can go with something like 2½" with the mount holes being set down 3/8" or so.  It will be interesting to see what your actual (spare) cover is like.  I was planning on giving 3" of space just to be safe so I need to cut 1" off the 4x4 tube I have.  I'd be leaving a bit more at the ends so it touches the bottom of the tractor where it bolts on so the mounting tabs are given a little support if I bottom out the cover.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Andries

@ljohnsaw Try this to see what it looks like from the factory.
New Holland 545D - 3 CYL TRACTOR LOADER(11/88 - 12/01) Parts 
If you're going whole hog on the off roading mods, these hydraulic filters are open to abuse: the FEL filter just under the subframe at the operator door and the rear end filter just back of that on a nice, 90 degree die formed fitting. 
Both are just waiting for a root branch to jump up an kiss it.  ;) 
It seems you're going at this looking at one spot at a time . . . 
Have you considered a single plate that goes from side to side, and front to stern, mounted to the subframe?
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

newoodguy78


Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Andries on November 15, 2021, 11:38:31 AMHave you considered a single plate that goes from side to side, and front to stern, mounted to the subframe?
Hmmmm.  I do have a 3/16" plate about 20" wide or so.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Andries

A buddy has a CK that he armoured up. His plate was too light and potato chipped on him when he hung up on a stump.
Too light to do the job but a pain to flatten out and re-design.  😖
His lesson learned was "start heavy"
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

newoodguy78


newoodguy78


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