130 Max blade guides

[Redmt]

I just got my new 130 Max. The biggest issue so far is the adjustment of the blade guides. It's kind of a hokey set up at best. Functional but difficult to adjust correctly. Is there any modification to using roller bearings instead of the rubbing blocks?

[Nealm66]

I haven't had any issues setting up the blade guides 

[rusticretreater]

There are aftermarket items but I think they are more geared to WoodMizer, Timberline etc.  You will have to go looking.  You can also look through the WoodlandMills forum here.

You just need to spend some time getting acquainted with the saw and come up with an adjustment technique that works for you.

[Redmt]

2 problems I have are that I have a mechanic/machinist mind set. When an adjustment is given in thousandths, that's what I set it at. The other problem is that tightening the set screws against the guides twists them so an accurate measurement is impossible. I have to get it in my head that even though an exact measurement is called for, close is good enough.

[btulloh]

Just use a business card on each side of the blade. The machinist mindset won't be your friend for the reasons you listed. 

The blade doesn't (shouldn't) depend on the blocks to run correctly if everything is set up right. 

Rollers are better for sure, but I've sawed a lot of wood and still use the blocks with no problems. 

[Redmt]

I read on Cooks website I believe that with their grooved rollers that a lower blade block/guide is optional for keeping the blade from diving if something goes not as planned. That suggested that the guides are more of a guardrail than an actual directional guide.
I spent a couple hours fooling with them to "get it exact", until settling on good enough. One thing I am going to do is get some longer set screws and machine the ends to a ball shape to lessen the twisting force on the guides.

[btulloh]

True dat on the guard rail analogy. 

Dressing the ends of the set screws should definitely help. Good idea..Maybe something like that on the bolts that hold the guide assembly bar in place would be good also.

FWIW, mine are set up "good enough" and I haven't needed to adjust the blocks in five years. 

Keeping a sharp blade on the machine and slowing down for knots is the secret for avoiding dives and waves. The blades dull much quicker than you'd expect. Sawing bark takes the edge off in a hurry. Plus these lower powered mills and lower bandspeed make the blade dull faster. 

Another factor is pich build up on the blade or the belts. Any buildup causes difficulty, so work at getting the lube correct to keep the pitch buildup from happening. 

[Wlmedley]

I agree with btulloh.I've had my mill two years and cut quite a bit of lumber and haven't touched mine.Sharp and tight blade makes a lot of difference.I even bought spare parts kit and have never opened it.It included guide blocks and bearings.