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Opinion on non-oem parts

Started by KyTreeFarmer, May 19, 2013, 11:16:22 PM

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Al_Smith

 

    Found it .This is a Stihl 200T but the idea is the same .You just fold a corner of the boot through the hole and walk the string around to work the rest through .Easy as pie .

JohnG28

I didn't think it was too hard to get the intake boot through on my 200t. Just make sure it goes into the correct place to line up for the carb and you're good. You can put a plumbing torch near the intake and see if the engine accelerates to see if it's leaking. If the engine speeds up it's a leaking boot. Don't worry too much, the boot is forgiving and will have a lot of play.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

KyTreeFarmer

Thanks for the string idea Al, and the pic. I guess I was going about it backwards, put the boot in first then tried the cylinder. That's when I messed up the gasket.

JohnG, have seen my Dad squirt lighter fluid on intake manifold before looking for leaks. Same principal I guess. Thanks for the idea and for refreshing my memory of my Dad. Waiting impatiently for new cylinder gasket to get here.
Thanks
KTF
Woodmizer LT15G
Belsaw from Sears & Roebucks
8N Ford
87 Kubota 2550 W/FEL

KyTreeFarmer

Woo Hoo  8) ...got everything back together today and after 5 or 6 pulls it fired right up. Saw idles good,starts easy and revs up quick and seems to have plenty of power.  Just like old times. Hope this is not just beginners luck. I never found anything that seemed like it would have caused the meltdown so I hope I haven't missed something a more experienced person may have found.
Anyway I learned a lot, got some great advice and had fun in the process. Oh yeah, most important lesson.......my saw will never leave home without me again!!
Thanks again to all who offered advice.
KTF
Woodmizer LT15G
Belsaw from Sears & Roebucks
8N Ford
87 Kubota 2550 W/FEL

beenthere

Good to hear of your success.  8)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

CTYank

Quote from: Al_Smith on May 21, 2013, 06:34:12 PM
Quote from: CTYank on May 21, 2013, 10:45:34 AM
Al,
A "highly restricted exhaust" on a 2-stroke will strangle airflow. Exhaust scavenging depends on the pressure pulse from opening exh. port to expel exhaust. For example, clogging up a spark-arrester screen can make some stihls (reportedly) hard to get off-idle.


Thank you for that explaination but I think I'm above average in my learning curve about how port loop scavanging on a two cycle engine works .

The only "pressure pulse " type of exhaust I've ever seen were on motorcycles or snowmobiles with tuned pipes .They also call it a variable port exhaust system or power valve.That type doesn't work well on a chainsaw although some early McCullochs' tried it without success .

You're welcome. But you misunderstand. 4-strokes have a whole stroke for scavenging, with piston as positive-displacement pump. 2-strokes depend totally on the very short pulse of high pressure gas exiting the exhaust port as it's opened.

That's followed by low pressure part of the waveform, which enables idling.

This had nothing to do with the loop.  ::)
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

CTYank

Quote from: Al_Smith on May 21, 2013, 06:41:51 PM
Quote from: CTYank on May 21, 2013, 10:45:34 AM
If exhaust doesn't leave, kinda hard to get fuel & air in, no? 'Taint no 4-stroke.

  .
From my limit knowledge of the internal combustion engine a restrictive exhaust also affects a 4 cycle engine .It not so I would think they might install quiet mufflers from Midas on a Mustang GT with over 500 HP but they don't .

My references sir were towards my personal Stihl 024 which in fact did experiance a slightly chared piston as a result of a restrictive muffler .If not I should have thought with as much as I've used it it certainly would have died on the vine .

There's a little tuning secret Yank called "reading the plug " you might Google it if you care to argue about it .My plug in case you wondered is a light brown color ,not white as would indicate an air leak in the circles I hang out with .. < space two periods  ;D

Getting a little patronizing, no? I've been reading plugs longer than you'd ever guess, like with serious little road-racing engines. Still don't like smoke being blown up my nose. What's plug-reading got to do with this?

Your conjecture about throttled exhaust toasting a piston, you're welcome to. But IMHO it's really nonsense. Periods, spaces, whatever.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

Al_Smith

Now let me get this straight here.Are you saying in so many words that a highly baffled chainsaw muffler is better than my idea of a debaffled example?If so what is that theory based on? It's certainly not based on conventional thinking in terms of two cycle theory or practice .

I was refering to reading the plug as one method to determine if the fuel and air mixture is correct but I guess you already knew that by your comments .

Now then exactly what small road racing engines were you refering to?

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