I was able to purchase my Dad's shop tools...

[ScottAR]

3m scotchbright (part#7447 or similar) on a orbital sander with some wd40 or similar for lubricant.  Just set the sander on the pad.  Ya don't have to clip the pad on or anything.  Works great on the flat areas. 

[oldhermit]

If you decide you'd rather make the profile on the boards yourself, you might check out the Woodmaster site.  They have many stock moulding knives and make custom knives as well.  Whether they'll fit your planer, I don't know.

[Ruffneck]

Thanks oldhermit, I'll shop around the site to see what they have. Can a regular planer be used with molding knives? I do like the thought of having my own molding machine. Unfortunately, I'm still trying to pay off these tools and my mill :D

I think Slab Slicer is right with calling it Dutch Lap, or possibly pattern 105, maybe the same. Either one will give you your dimensions when you go to cut it.
Allan

It is a close profile to the 105, but there are some differences. The angle on the face is more of a 45 degree angle than curved. My thought has been to run it through a saw down 1 3/8" from the top and then run one last pass with a blade set at the 45 degree angle. On the backside I would run it through the saw to make the 1/2" rabbet cut.
Something I have learned is that pine is used for this siding. I am falling pine right now, this project is coming to the front burner real fast ;D
I sure would like to make my own T&G out of my pine too. What is the cheapest setup a guy can do for that? Router table maybe?

Good pics Steven of you and Mr. Lamb.
I wish I knew half of what that Gentleman knows. 

Me too Poston

[Don_Papenburg]

I have that same planer .  Made in tiwain.  The quality was good but the motor is a bit under powered . mine had bad smoke seals and has been replaced .  It was purchased in the early 80s . I had to replace bearings so I had a Byrd shelex cutterhead made for it .  The imports from China including the powermatic are exact in every way except they are one inch narrower.

[Handy Andy]

  If you need to soak parts to clean off the rust, I found an acid that causes no problems, it's called Oxalic acid, it is commonly used as a wood bleach, takes the iron marks off panels from black iron clamps.  I used some to clean the rust out of the gas tank on my motorcycle.  Available from a company called Soapgoods.com

[tiny tinkr]

That's really cool that you got your dads tools.  I got a table saw that had rust on it. I used a product call Rust Free  and then finished with Boeshied.  The table looks almost like new. I also had my shop tools stored for about 5 years and had no rust on them when I got them out again   the products are available woodcrafters.com

Good luck

[Don_Papenburg]

The planer that you have will not have enough room for the standard molding knives  to clear the castings and other things .  But you could grind your own low relief knives from straight planer knives.

[Ruffneck]

Thanks for all the great replies everyone. I have cleaned up the table saw with just the steel wool and it worked good. The jointer is another story. I will have to get more aggressive with that. I am thinking that disassembly will be in order to get to all the parts.
I have been using the planer on the lumber I milled last summer. I love working with the cedar, it smells so good It was less fum working with the maple, I may not be able to tame those boards, but I haven't given up yet.

 
I am going to have to sharpen the planer knives pretty soon. The planer came with some gages, I'm not really sure how they're supposed to work. What are those two green things used for? When I plug in the planer, the motor makes a humming noise but it starts right up. Is that normal?


 
I really need to try and track down a manual for this tool.
It looks like I can remove the knives with a very skinny wrench, but I'm not sure.
I'm getting closer to the lumber I want to make my siding out of ;D

[Don_Papenburg]

The two little green things are for setting you knives after sharpening .  the outer ends of the curved part rests on the drum and then you can adjust the knife up till it contacts the center of the arch.
The long square blocks are for setting the table rolls.  I set mine to be just below the surface because I tend to plane smooth and rough wood all the time and that worked the best . If you plane mostly rough wood set them higher.

[Ruffneck]

Thanks so much Don! That makes sense now.
I must need a small wrench to remove my blades I'm thinking :-\

[Don_Papenburg]

I think a standard sized open end wrench will fit . The blades are spring loaded (have coil springs that push up on them)

[Ruffneck]

Sharp planer knives equal fun!


 

Pine from last year. Thanks for all the help! Sent in the knives for a sharpenin' and looks like everything is working good.
I haven't figured the gauge out on the feed system yet. Just don't see where it fits on anything yet. Hmmm