*UPDATE IT HAS ARRIVED!!!! *Finally pulled the trigger A new LT-15 is on its way

[hbeane]

Magicman I am so excited....The man from woodmizer told me I would be sawing logs in a few hours...Well it took all weekend but the mill is sitting in my yard assembled.  I had to get the neighbor to lift the mill head with his pig pole and then come back and time an lift it again to set on the track....It was my last few minutes of daylight and I set a log on and cut a few 2x4 out of a log...Took me a long time to work that one log up but I am sure I will get quicker.  I did get a few pictures but batteries died and I was not going to town,not when I have my new toy to play with...... I am so glad I decided to have my mill delivered and not pickup and assembled mill....This way I learned so much this weekend..At least now I know a Little something about the mill....Lots and lots more to learn but I am more educated tonight than I was 2 nights ago..But batteries tomorrow and then pictures posted....

I DO HAVE A QUESTION??????  Stanwelch you may be able to help me but I am sure any woodmizer owner might know....I have 4 long  nuts and bolts left over...(spare parts?? My gut tells me no!!) they are the same size bolts that was used to bolt the tracks together....I bolted the track together on the outside of the track as the video showed And my instruction manual...It looks to me that on the inside of the track there is another place to bolt the track together...The video or manual does not show to bolt anything up on the inside??  There are 4 places that looks like I could fasten the track together, And I have 4 bolts??  Anyone know if the track should be bolted on the inside as well?   I am just not sure...Thanks in advance for any help....Pictures soon....They are coming...  Gotta go back to work tomorrow.....But I am feeling a 24 hour virus coming on....You know the milling bug....I use won't tell the bossman that. :)

[stanwelch]

Your instincts are correct.  The track should be bolted on the inside as well.  You'll want all the frame strength you can get when you put that oversize heavy log on the mill! :D

[hbeane]

Stan thank you I figured this would be the case...But I wanted someone with experience to tell me I was doing the right thing...Thanks again..This website is probably the best thing I have found on the Internet...So helpful...Thanks to all that participate...I hope to someday be informed enough to help a newbie like myself...

[Magicman]

Everyone crawls first.   ;)

[fishfighter]

Good luck with the mill and watch those back stops. Sooner or later, you going to hit one. :D

[sandsawmill14]

congratulations on the mill

[derhntr]

Enjoy the fever 8)

[hbeane]

Everyone crawls first.   ;)

Yes we do. So much to learn it's overwhelming. I read the post about the 1/4 scale and holy cow now I am confused. But like u said I am crawling

[hbeane]

Good luck with the mill and watch those back stops. Sooner or later, you going to hit one. :D

I hope I don't hit them but I know it will happen. Thanks for the warning.

[hbeane]

Well here we are finally some photos...Its a crummy evening here..Nasty storms so I sat down to add some pictures...That was a learning process but I got it now, and after I figured it out its really easy..


Here it is arriving at its new home.. I Love my old truck..



 

Getting her all setup..This was a bigger job than I thought it would be.. But it was a great learning experience...



 

Only about a hour of daylight left sunday night but I had to go get a log to run through it. I just could not help it I HAD TOO



 

Future site of my home...Just in the clearing ground phase but I am getting there..



 

Log Pile I made recently at the house site.



 

Would love for someone to tell me what kind of a pine log this is..I thought it might be Pitch Pine but now I am not sure.. Pine what??? Someone help please..I know I should know this...Been cutting firewood my whole life and I know what alot of the trees are..But you know it was either firewood, or it was not and trash...But not anymore!!!



 

Same pine tree...Just thought this might help me identify it



 

Will be my view from my back porch after I open it up a little bit...I hope this all works out for me and I can take this sawmil and my trees and turn those into a home...Thanks for humoring  me with my pictures I think I got carried away... Hope tomorrow after work the weather is better so I can get my mill moved to my first log pile and start learning....I am sure there are alot of stupid questions to come...

[trapper]

only stupid question is the one you do not ask.  We all had to start from zero at one point.

[Verticaltrx]

Pics look great, thanks for posting.

That looks like a Virginia Pine, which I believe is considered a type of SYP.

[YellowHammer]

It's nice seeing sadust coming out of a brand new mill 8)
Congratulations

[thecfarm]

I love your sawmill. I love your old truck too. '78???

[stanwelch]

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a nice milling site -- you should be able to fill all the spaces between the rocks with saw dust in no time. 

Is the big box in the background storage for all your milling stuff?

In the second picture I can't see if the track wiper felts are installed on the head post on the right hand side. They aren't really necessary but do help keep some sawdust off the rail.

Looks like your helper has got this sawing thing figured out. Hope he likes off bearing and let's you run the mill  :D :D

[fishfighter]

Pics look great, thanks for posting.

That looks like a Virginia Pine, which I believe is considered a type of SYP.

Know around my parts as a short needle pine. Yes, part of the SYP tree family. Easy cutting with a lot less pitch then SYP.

[WDH]

Yes, that is pitch pine.  Cones are too large for virginia pine, and virginia pine bark is very scaly.

Setting the mill up about knee height on some level beams will make things much easier on your body.  You can frame each side of the mill with a 2x4 screwed onto the beams to keep the mill from moving when you turn the big logs.  With the little screw feet, when you turn a big log, the mill can and will crab over, and you do not want the mill moving after you get it set up and level.  You can also build a log deck to load the logs onto which makes rolling the logs on the mill much easier.



 



 

If you do put the mill on a beam foundation, pull a string from one end of the mill to the other to check that all the bed rails are level with each other.  Do this on each side and the middle.  If one bed rail is lower than the others, you can use some shims under that bed rail to get everything perfectly level. 

[wesdor]

Like your photos.  Great to see sawdust and the concentration on your face as you make that first cut! 
Keep up the learning curve - it looks to me like you are well on the way

[47sawdust]

hbeane,
Congratulations on the mill.You will find it to be as reliable as your old Ford.I have never owned a vehicle newer than the 1996 f150 I currently drive.I just like that older body style.
Best of luck to you.

[hbeane]

Thanks to all for the congratulations....I was out again tonight playing with it and I can see there is so much to learn...But I am strugling with the scale on my mill..I read the post about the 1/4 scale and I just dont think I get it...And when I do I know I am gona feel silly for not understanding...Any help is appreciated... Also thanks to all for helping me with the pine. I hope it is good for construction lumber. I have alot of it.

I love your sawmill. I love your old truck too. '78???

Thanks for both...Its a 91...Not that old I guess but old enough.

Thanks for the pictures. Looks like a nice milling site -- you should be able to fill all the spaces between the rocks with saw dust in no time. 

Is the big box in the background storage for all your milling stuff?

In the second picture I can't see if the track wiper felts are installed on the head post on the right hand side. They aren't really necessary but do help keep some sawdust off the rail.

Looks like your helper has got this sawing thing figured out. Hope he likes off bearing and let's you run the mill  :D :D

I am actually moving the mill..I hope by the weekend but if not on the weekend...And the big box in the background is my cold frame or hot box depending on where your from? Grandpa always called his cold frame..Grea way to start your veggies and not need a big green house...I had the top off since it was a warm day.. I do have both sets of wipers on. Does ot look like they could do much but they are installed.

Yes, that is pitch pine.  Cones are too large for virginia pine, and virginia pine bark is very scaly.

Setting the mill up about knee height on some level beams will make things much easier on your body.  You can frame each side of the mill with a 2x4 screwed onto the beams to keep the mill from moving when you turn the big logs.  With the little screw feet, when you turn a big log, the mill can and will crab over, and you do not want the mill moving after you get it set up and level.  You can also build a log deck to load the logs onto which makes rolling the logs on the mill much easier.



 



 

If you do put the mill on a beam foundation, pull a string from one end of the mill to the other to check that all the bed rails are level with each other.  Do this on each side and the middle.  If one bed rail is lower than the others, you can use some shims under that bed rail to get everything perfectly level. 

Thanks for the picture of your setup. I am going to move my mill in just a few days...I setup there to assemble.. I wanted to be close to the house with my tools and stuff..But I am going to build a permanent home for my mill...I am going to use it a little to decide what will be helpful to me..I am doing the log deck in time..Love the string idea. I was gonna shoot it with transit to level but string sounds easier. You have a nice setup there

Like your photos.  Great to see sawdust and the concentration on your face as you make that first cut! 
Keep up the learning curve - it looks to me like you are well on the way

Thanks...I am determined to learn the process to mill my own lumber and hope to do it well. Being honest right now I am a little overwheled with it all, but enjoy the heck out of it all.

hbeane,
Congratulations on the mill.You will find it to be as reliable as your old Ford.I have never owned a vehicle newer than the 1996 f150 I currently drive.I just like that older body style.
Best of luck to you.

I hope this mill is that reliable if so I know I have many years or enjoyment to come..My truck is a 91 and I like the old body style as well. The new trucks are nice but I will keep my old truck and buy more toys..

[Verticaltrx]

While the quarter scale is used on these mills for several steps, the indexing wheel is the best way to saw consistent lumber.

This is my method for sawing 1" (4/4) and 2" (8/4) lumber, once you get a hang of the indexing wheel it is very fast and accurate:

Assuming your mill is properly set up, at the lowest saw head position it will cut an exactly 1" board, and the pointer/handle on the indexing wheel will be straight up and down. If it's not, make the adjustments so it is (covered in the manual).

Some things to keep in mind about the indexing wheel:
full turn = 2" head movement
half turn = 1" movement
each notch is 1/16" movement
If the handle is straight up and down you are exactly at an inch mark on the ruler, ie 8,9,10" above the bed, for example. If the handle is horizontal you are at a half inch mark, ie 8.5, 9.5, 10.5", and so on.

To move the head down to make a 1" board you go a half turn plus two notches (which accounts for the kerf), a 2" board is a full turn plus two notches.


Make your opening cuts on your first face two faces, which will be 90* to each other. I try to start out with the handle on the indexing wheel either straight up and down or straight across, just to make it easy.
Drop the saw head to make 1" thick boards when opening these faces, turn the handle a half turn, plus two notches. 

You third face will dictate the width of your cant and therefore boards. On this face I set my saw height to however wide I want my boards, so for 10" wide boards I set the saw to 10" high on the measuring scale. Then I move the saw in just enough to make a mark on the end of the log, but not much more. I then set my quarter scale so it lines up with the 4/4 mark and my indicator, if there are still boards to be had above my saw mark, I saw them out, making sure I end up right at my mark.

Flip the cant into position to start cutting boards. Move the bottom 4/4  mark on the quarter scale so it lines up exactly with the 1" mark on the ruler. Set your saw to cut the first board, using the 4/4 marks, your handle on the indexing wheel should be in one of the 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 or 1" notches if everything is right (not a 1/16" notch.) Make you cut, remove the board, bring the saw head back without lifting it. Drop a half turn plus two notches, make the next cut, and so on. You'll be ending up at different places around the index wheel with each board, but as long as it's an 1/8" notch you are on track. Use the same process for 2" lumber, only it will be a full turn plus two notches.

Hope this doesn't all sound too confusing and overwhelming, it's really easy once you start doing it. It is by far faster, easier, and more accurate than trying to line up the pointer on the 4/4 mark for each board.

[hbeane]

Thank you. It is both confusing and it helped. You explained things so I can understand a little better.  Appreciate the help. Going to look this all over again this evening, for now off to work.

[Dad2FourWI]

Congrats on the new mill ! - that dust certainly gets in the blood!!!

After reading your thread about your mill and cabin ideas, I thought you might enjoy watching this video by Billy Reeder. He has a great story to tell and he does a very nice job telling it.... and it does not hurt that he built he cabin with the help of his LT-15 !!!

Fully "G-rated" and a great vid for the whole family. I often watch it with a cup-a-jo in the morning and the kids can recognize the music of the intro now!!!  :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OGUP_302bY

Here is Billy's home page http://cabinpeople.com/

It is a fun watch and it should hit pretty close to home!!!

Welcome, and keep the pics coming!

-Dad2FourWI

[tnaz]

Fully "G-rated" and a great vid for the whole family. I often watch it with a cup-a-jo in the morning and the kids can recognize the music of the intro now!!!  :D


Here is Billy's home page http://cabinpeople.com/

It is a fun watch and it should hit pretty close to home!!!

Welcome, and keep the pics coming!

-Dad2FourWI

Thanks for sharing, very nice.

Terry

[hbeane]

While the quarter scale is used on these mills for several steps, the indexing wheel is the best way to saw consistent lumber.

This is my method for sawing 1" (4/4) and 2" (8/4) lumber, once you get a hang of the indexing wheel it is very fast and accurate:

Assuming your mill is properly set up, at the lowest saw head position it will cut an exactly 1" board, and the pointer/handle on the indexing wheel will be straight up and down. If it's not, make the adjustments so it is (covered in the manual).

Some things to keep in mind about the indexing wheel:
full turn = 2" head movement
half turn = 1" movement
each notch is 1/16" movement
If the handle is straight up and down you are exactly at an inch mark on the ruler, ie 8,9,10" above the bed, for example. If the handle is horizontal you are at a half inch mark, ie 8.5, 9.5, 10.5", and so on.

To move the head down to make a 1" board you go a half turn plus two notches (which accounts for the kerf), a 2" board is a full turn plus two notches.


Make your opening cuts on your first face two faces, which will be 90* to each other. I try to start out with the handle on the indexing wheel either straight up and down or straight across, just to make it easy.
Drop the saw head to make 1" thick boards when opening these faces, turn the handle a half turn, plus two notches. 

You third face will dictate the width of your cant and therefore boards. On this face I set my saw height to however wide I want my boards, so for 10" wide boards I set the saw to 10" high on the measuring scale. Then I move the saw in just enough to make a mark on the end of the log, but not much more. I then set my quarter scale so it lines up with the 4/4 mark and my indicator, if there are still boards to be had above my saw mark, I saw them out, making sure I end up right at my mark.

Flip the cant into position to start cutting boards. Move the bottom 4/4  mark on the quarter scale so it lines up exactly with the 1" mark on the ruler. Set your saw to cut the first board, using the 4/4 marks, your handle on the indexing wheel should be in one of the 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 or 1" notches if everything is right (not a 1/16" notch.) Make you cut, remove the board, bring the saw head back without lifting it. Drop a half turn plus two notches, make the next cut, and so on. You'll be ending up at different places around the index wheel with each board, but as long as it's an 1/8" notch you are on track. Use the same process for 2" lumber, only it will be a full turn plus two notches.

Hope this doesn't all sound too confusing and overwhelming, it's really easy once you start doing it. It is by far faster, easier, and more accurate than trying to line up the pointer on the 4/4 mark for each board.

Verticaltrx,
                  Well I was out again today after work and trying to get a little milling time in before my rainy weekend starts. But I wanted to thank you. I am not kidding myself I know I dont have it yet, but your post helped me. I came inside printed it out and just started playing with the mill and reading it over and over. And it is starting to click.


THanks so much I owe ya one..