Sawing small logs in half on a WM lt40hd

[jackpine]

I have a job coming up that requires sawing hundreds of small, peeled, jack pine logs in half. I have not seen the logs yet, but the customer tells me they are 10" to 14" dia., 8 ft. & 12 ft. long. Because this requires clamping below center I know how time consuming and difficult this can be. For only a few logs, no big deal, but for hundreds >:(  Has anyone made a special clamp or fixture to help speed up this process? If so, or you have some ideas, please share your thoughts.

Thanks, Bill

[Bibbyman]

Just this morning I squared out about a dozen cedars into 4x4s and 6x6s.  Most were too small for the task.  All were rough.  The ones that made 4x4s were the worse.  It's very difficult to clamp on these little, tapered, and rough logs.

I guess I'm not being much help.  But 10"-14" shouldn't be much of a problem - given they're straight, smooth, well trimmed with little taper.   

Do you have the new style two-plane clamp?

The only thing I can think of is to make some kind of plate to bolt onto the back support that has a dogging tooth so it can "bite" into the log below center line and hold on. What I'm thinking of is something that would bolt on in place of the SST plate that's on most LT40HD mills – at least they come with the Super HDs.

[jackpine]

Bibby
That is about the same as my thoughts so far. I think if I turn the 2 plane clamp so only the edge contacts the log it may hold better without the log pulling up and out of the clamp. I really think the customer streched the truth on the 10" to 14" dia. because that is big for jack pine in this area. I suspect what they relly are is 6" to 10" if I'm lucky, which means I have even less room to play with.
The other thing I will have to contend with is excessive pitch gumming up the band as these logs have been down since spring. Lots of water,Dawn soap and ww solution. >:(
The job is a week away so I have some time to think about it.
Bill

[StorminN]

Could you rig up something like this that would hold maybe two or three logs at a time?

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=28195.0

-Norm.

[DR Buck]

Did it once for a customer.   Will NEVER do it again!    It took way to much time and had them 'jump' out of the clamps a few times and throw the band off.    And these were 6-8 locust logs for flat sided posts.    Now I just tell them to go to the farm store and buy treated post.

[Furby]

IF your logs were cut pretty close to the same length, some sort of end dog system would be the ticket.
Would only have to adjust it when you change to a different length log.
You would still need a back stop near the middle of the log, but it would only be there to provide sideways support against the pull of the blade.

[Brucer]

I did a bunch of 9-12" lodgepole pine for a friend last year.

1) Measure the diameter of the biggest one and set the blade height to 1/2 that.
2) Set your side supports and vertical clamp position so the blade will just clear them (I allowed 1/8").
3) Use the toeboards to raise both ends of the log to the blade height. It helps a lot to have the customer do the measuring while you adjust the toeboards. Also makes it his fault if you screw one up ;D.
4) Clamp the log firmly, but not so tight as to pop it out.
5) Use a sharp blade and plenty of lube.
6) Cut real slow when you enter the cut.
7) Never, ever try this with frozen, peeled logs :(.

I have the rollers on the two outermost side supports and I found that helped a lot. When the side supports are part way down you essentally have a vertical face for the log to push against.

I was prepared to put a 1" sacrifice board against the stops, but it wasn't necessary.

It's a bit of a chuckle when someone watches you confidently cutting along. They see the blade heading for the side support or the clamp and they know for sure that you're going to hit metal. Just keep your hands of those two critical hydraulic levers.

[ladylake]

I'd do what Bibby said, I just did that on my B20 for lots of small logs and it workd good.  Steve

[spencerhenry]

clamping below center is usually not a problem, i have the old style clamp. i sawed some old fence rails in half a year or so ago, they were in the 5 or 6" diameter range. never had a problem on the 30 or 40 that i did.

[jackpine]

 Started the job today, and as usual, did not get the full story up front. The logs are red pine, not jack pine, and he wants them sawn into a poor mans version of fake log siding. This means a 3" to 6" flat on two sides before sawing in half. In reality this makes the sawing in half easier as their is a flat to clamp against, but because the flat is relatively narrow I am having one of the helpers hold the log square as I clamp. All in all looks like it is going well.

p.s. The customer, who wants the poor mans siding, has an estimated net worth of 20 to 30 million :D Go figure.

Bill

[customsawyer]

Tell him I will unhook my mill from where it is at and come up there and cut his for half of that. ;D

[Tom]

That sure gives "cutting on halves" a new meaning, eh customsawyer? :D

[stonebroke]

That's probably why he has all that money.

Stonebroke

[cantcutter]

If you have a plastic bander you can band it to the mill in a few places and then just saw through the bands.

I have also used a large plank and screwed short logs to it and dog the plank, just don't hit the screws.