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Alaskan Chainsaw Mill

Started by sawinmontana, April 18, 2003, 03:20:19 PM

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johncinquo

planning on using my stihl bars.  I have an extra GB bar if need be.
To be one, Ask one
Masons and Shriners

Kevin

3/8 or 404 pitch .050" or .063"?

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Hey Montana,

As you can see, we guys do sometimes forget what the original question was.  Echoing a previous post,  get hold of Malloff's book,  Chainsaw Lumber Making by Taunton Press.  It is still the best way to get an initial grip on the subject.   :P

If you do a search for posts I have made, you will see comments about chainsaw milling.  ( Some informative, but mostly humorous or tragic!  ;))
Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

johncinquo

Geez I had to go check.  Too many toys to keep track of.  I have been running, and therefore my saws are set up to run 3/8 pitch with .050 gauge.  I am assuming the milling chain will be the same, just with different cutter arrangement.  I would hate to change bars and sprockets.  

I see in the granberg manual they offer chains for sale.  Any feedback on what they sell?

Edited my post 10/24/03:  After further inspection, I have 3/8 .050 on my 25" bar, and 404 .063 on my 36" bar.  I am going to start with the "oregon" grind chain first (actual oregon chain), and then if I have problems try the "granberg" style (which will still be oregon chain, just reground)  Confused yet?  Did ya know that other chain makers actually call them that, well now I do.

Thanks for the help and input and directions to the sites.  Man this place is great!
To be one, Ask one
Masons and Shriners

Kevin

I've used Granberg chains for milling and can't offer anything positive.

Minnesota_boy

All I can say is that every shop in this town that sells chain, sells their own brand or Oregon chain.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

fencerowphil (Phil L.)

Not that I prefer cutting metal with my saw,...

but...

I must have cut 60 to 70 nails with a Stihl ripping chain.
It was a 404pitch, 63 gauge, however.   I only lost one tooth, until the last days of its life, when the teeth were less than 1/8" long.  

As you might expect, though, the 10-deg grind caused the first edge not to last long, when the chain was first put on the bar.   After I cut away the first .030" or so the edge held well.   Tough chains!
Phil L.
Bi-VacAtional:  Piano tuner and sawyer.  (Use one to take a vacation from the other.) Have two Stihl 090s, one Stihl 075, Echo CS8000, Echo 346,  two Homely-ite 27AVs, Peterson 10" Swingblade Winch Production Frame, 36" and 54"Alaskan mills, and a sore back.

Oregon_Rob

I wanted to say howdy, haven't had much time to stop by lately, work, family & duck hunting has opened.

Opinions on ripping chain are endless, and lucky for us, free.
My short experience with ripping chain goes like this:

Bought my 36" III, mini-mill & Granberg chain new from SW Fastener. Started playing around and was amazed at how fast the Granberg chain would dull. Someone we all know, (first rate guy) went out of his way and offered to supply me with an Oregon ripping chain that is not available locally (hard to believe but true, I couldn't find the Oregon chain I wanted in Oregon). This chain was basically an Oregon, simi-chissel, full skip chain ground at 10° (3/8, 050). This chain stayed sharp much longer than the Grangerg and provided a decent finish and was relatively easy to file. The loop was for my 24" bar. I had an occasion to need my 32" bar and took an old, full comp, LG chain and filed it to 10°. This is now my preferred chain for milling. Gives the best balance between speed, stay-sharpness (like that's a real word), availability, lumber finish and price.

"And that's all I have to say about that"

Oregon Rob
 :)
Chainsaw Nerd

forestryschoolnz

Not sure how this works, Looking at buying a chain saw to run an alaskan mill here at the school.  Would you buy a MS640 or a 384xp husksy, any thoughts out there please!

Kevin

Welcome to the forum.
Is that MS660?
What size of logs are we talking?

jokers

Hi Kevin
3/8LP has always been .370 + in actual length.

BTW, Jeff Sikkema has some new chainsaw mills coming in from GB that look great and seem to offer several improved features over the competition. Sometimes it pays to come to the party late.

//www.snssawshop.com

Russ

forestryschoolnz

Thanks for the welcome.  We use the mill for student purposes just to get the logs into managable boards, the students then use them for accoustic sorting projects and other wood quality research projects.  Logs usually range from about 30 to 50 cm diameter.  My main issue is what  saw to use.  In NZ we have a saw called the MS 640 magnum, its a 84.9 cc stihl 4.8kw power looks just the same as an MS440 or MS660.  Im not sure to go with that or a husky 385xp.  both are equally as good, just looking for any inside info, also what bar and chain should I use, 3/8 pitch full skip or semi skip. Normally we are cutting pines but sometimes the odd Eucalpt

Kevin

I would opt for the Husqvarna, good saw and you may have a better warranty.
I use 3/8pitch full skip Oregon RA.
You may not be able to get that but RD isn't bad, it's the same chain but full comp.

forestryschoolnz

Thanks for the advice, however it looks like we are going for the stihl since the dealer is closer and we get a good price.  I will try and go for the full skip chain as you suggested.  Let you know how it goes.  

Kevin

If you aren't concerned with the finish, Stihl has full skip or semi skip (Rapid Super (RS)) for ripping up logs.

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