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Stihl 362 for Alaskan Chainsaw Mill

Started by newcutter1, February 23, 2015, 08:35:22 PM

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newcutter1

New to Forestry Forum! Just looking to get some input and advice. I just purchased a 24" Alaskan Chainsaw Mill and I have a Stihl MS362. I'm wondering if anyone can give some input on whether it will be possible to operate with this set up without blowing up the saw. I'm not looking to pump out huge amounts of lumber, just a few slabs and boards every couple weeks. The largest logs I'll be milling will be 20" at the very maximum, most will be in the mid to high teens. Any thoughts or other advice for getting started with my new mill are welcomed!

sawguy21

What are you proposing to cut? Cedar or pine shouldn't be too bad, hard woods will give you fits. With that much bar you really need 70cc or more, chainsaw milling is hard work at the best of times. No point making it harder on yourself and the saw.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Andyshine77

If the saw is an M-tronic model, just take your time and stop every minute and let the saw idle cool down for 20-20 seconds. If it's a regular carb saw, make sure it open up the H needle to richen up the mixture a bit. I also strongly recommend running more oil in your fuel mix, 40:1 is fine I prefer 32:1 myself.     
Andre.

Ianab

Smaller logs? Softer wood? Yeah that will "work".

As the others suggest, adjust the saw a bit richer if possible, and run a bit of extra oil in the mix. This just gives you more "margin of error". It's a pro grade saw, and shouldn't be harmed by running at full throttle for a minute or 2. Keep the chain sharp and don't force the saw in the cut.

Chainsaw carbs are generally pretty simple. They have 2 settings they should work at. Idle and full noise. You can cause problems by running a chainsaw at part throttle as the mixture may not be perfect, possibly lean, leading to overheating.

But if everything is working right, that saw should be fine at full throttle, cutting as fast as it has the power to.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

John Mc

I'm not too familiar with the 362, but I wonder if it would benefit from a muffler mod to let it breathe better and run cooler in this application. Someone with more knowledge of this saw may chime in with thoughts on this.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Magicman

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, newcutter1.   8)
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celliott

Quote from: John Mc on February 24, 2015, 08:21:12 AM
I'm not too familiar with the 362, but I wonder if it would benefit from a muffler mod to let it breathe better and run cooler in this application. Someone with more knowledge of this saw may chime in with thoughts on this.

I thought about doing a muffler mod on my 395xp I use for my 36" Alaskan mill, thinking the same thing, less heat. But with how the mill bolts to the bar, exhaust would get deflected back onto the saw (with the mod I was considering) not to mention you are kind of leaning over the saw when milling and would have exhaust fumes and a lot of noise directed at you. For these reasons the muffler on my milling saw is stock. And I have other dual port/modded saws.

362 will work for occasional milling, like others said, keep a very good chain and let it cool down and go slow.
Also maybe look for a good used older saw better suited to milling. A stihl 076 would be excellent.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

drobertson

All I will say on this regarding the 362 is I have one, love it, but when it comes to rip sawing, it will, but the exit of the noodles is poor.
My ms 310 will out perform when rip sawing, only due to clogging, only.. they are fast enough, strong enough, but the exit of chips on noodles is poor, just poor, I suggest trying one out before you take the plunge,  I will say after chipping out a section of the side cover, which is a bit dangerous, visual on the drive sprocket, the chips fly out but a finger in the wrong spot would be bad,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

John Mc

I didn't think you got noodles when milling, since the bar is generally perpendicular to the long axis of the log. I thought the noodles we more of an issue when the bar was more laid down along the length of the log.  But then, I don't own a chainsaw mill...
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

celliott

Yeah, milling with a CSM produces sawdust/small chips. Ripping with the end grain produces noodles.
Chris Elliott

Clark 666C cable skidder
Husqvarna and Jonsered pro saws
265rx clearing saw
Professional maple tubing installer and maple sugaring worker, part time logger

drobertson

That makes sense, I dont' chain saw mill but I do cut shavings for the chicken coop,  and I guess I am laying flat with grain which is making the noodles,  I like them for the nest boxes, I just noticed that the 362 clogs more than the 310, If noodles are not produced when csm'n  the 362 should work just fine,  thanks for the clarification there, 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

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