Where should I set my scales?

[379hammerdown]

I had a slab bump the marker on my head rig that moves up and down showing me how high I'm cutting... 6" 7" etc... and its out of wack now. It was dusk so I didnt have much time to fool with it but my question is this:

I assume that I measure from the log bunk to the top of the blade and match that to a mark on the scale, but which one? There are four measuring sections, metric, finished lumber, full inch, and full two inch... all of them allowing for band kerf etc... which one do I need to set it at?

Hope this makes sense!

Keith

[Fla._Deadheader]

AS an idea, being as how I don't know your mill, we set ours on the homemade mill, so there was a 1" board left on the bunks. That was how far down the sawhead would bottom out. If you start at a 1" measure, set it 1" + kerf above the bunk. Raise the head to 2" and see how that jives ???

[Tom]

Some folks might have their own way of setting up their mill, but, to get a true cant, you measure from the bottom of the blade to bed.  That measurement at the bottom of the blade should coincide with a the 1" mark on your "true" measurement scale.  The one that closely represents a ruler.

It's easier, of course to line it up with the 6" or 12" mark.  So raise the head until you measure 12" from the bottom of the blade to the bed and then move your "scale" until the mark on the head aligns with the 12" mark.    

[flht01]

Just to add to Tom and Fla's comments, use the right side of the Std/1.5 Fin. scale to set the pointer. This is the ruler scale Tom refer's to and will be the actual measurement from the top of log bunk to bottom of blade. The Fin. 1", 1.5" and 2" scales all take the kerf in acount for multiple cuts.  I tried to get a picture of the scale just now but the camera just won't stay still when it's cold. Based on your description, they used the same scale on your model as the one on mine. Give me a call if I can help.

[Furby]

When I set mine, I go to the bottom side of the downward facing tooth tip, rather than the bottom side of the blade.
Ever so slight difference, but that's the way I like mine set.

[dail_h]

   What Furby said

[bandmiller2]

Hammer D, above will get you very close,after you adjust cut say a 6" cant and measure make your final adjustments from there.Frank C.

[379hammerdown]

Thank yall for your reply's! I was able to get it all situated and to my satisfaction in under 10 minutes. My mill was at the customer's place that evening and I was returning to cut the remainder of his logs.. and didn't want to spend a lot of time figuring things out!

The way it worked out for me, on my Log-Master, is that if I set the marker to stop (On the scale that makes the 1" boards match 3/4 inch finished boards) at say 5.5" and make the cut, I'd end up with a 5.5" cant. Same way all the way up, 11", 16.5", 22" etc. I measured from the bottom of the band to the bunk.

Well... now I know how to do that!

I'm sure I've got many more things to solve as they come up... like really big logs "suck"!  :D The other 2 days I cut quite a few 16' pine logs that were anywhere from 28" to 38", but I had to trim the 38" one with my husky. Talk about heavy!! Every time I was fixin to load the next one... I'd think "I wonder whats gonna get damaged" I just don't like them and I think I'm going to set my limit on butts at 30" unless they are shorter. I'll figure that out as I go I suppose!!  ;D

Take care everyone, Till next time!!

Keith

[Ivey]

379, I have a Logmaster LM-4, when I have had to adjust the pointer on the scale, I do it
just like Tom explained. I move the saw head up or down so that the bottom of the downward set tooth is six in. from the bed, then set the pointer on 6" (true scale) and tighten it down. That will make it right on all the other scales right..