Started the trailer for my mill. It's about 10" wider as that was the smallest axle I could find, and if I ever upgrade I will be good to go. I had some scrap c channel, but bought 2x4 box tube for the rails and ends. I bought 6 - 2000 lb jacks, 2000 lb axle, tires, lights, and coupling; I should have around $700.00 into it when I'm done. Because I have no way to fixture it I have a bit of an arch in it from welding the axle on, I may try to heat it out, but the way I planned on mounting the track will allow me to adjust the track on the trailer if I need to. This is about 12 hours into it.
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After thinking about it, I will probably try heating the other side of the rail to get the arch out. I will flip it, support it on the ends again, weld the tabs that hold the track on, and if that doesn't help I can use a rose bud to heat it dark red above the offending welds (600 degrees). Any advise?
If you can't get the arch out of the rail, you may need to shim to saw tracks. That might be the ticket anyway. It might be a good idea to mount the track on the rails so that it can be adjusted in the same way as the feet work, but through-bolted.
Looks like the trailer is coming along nicely.
I don't see to much reason you need to straighten the trailer. is the sawmill is going to be bolted to it and adjustable? If so I would not mess with straightening. Just make sure you have adjustment in the bolt holes.
Looks good. Looks to me like your axle is upside down. the curve should be up. but I guess in such a light application it doesn't really matter.
I had that problem on a scout trailer for fire wood (6 x 10 x 2 foot tall sides). I did not notice it until after sides were welded and it has a permanent arch. I should have supported under the axle while welding. It works fine, and is noticed mostly by me! I am sure you will figure it out.
Quote from: Dana Stanley on May 28, 2019, 06:49:13 AM
After thinking about it, I will probably try heating the other side of the rail to get the arch out. I will flip it, support it on the ends again, weld the tabs that hold the track on, and if that doesn't help I can use a rose bud to heat it dark red above the offending welds (600 degrees). Any advise?
If you have an air compressor, get an pneumatic peening tool and peen your welds and that will relieve some of the stress from the weld. I have also seen a heat and quench method used to take warpage out much like auto body dent repair. Just heating will be hard to control and to get the two sides the same.
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When I made mine I used 2x4x1/4 tube the frame did not arch at all
Hey Goose,
I use cans like the one on the Trailer frame for "Welder Prep", too.
Ol cow hand, i think that was just for scale :D :D, and I assume it preps the guys doing the welding, not the material. smiley_beertoast
Looking at the picture now, The spring shackle welded on right where the cross member is welded on has contributed to your stress problem .I would leave it alone and correct wherever the mill bolts on with shims if necessary.
Quote from: Crusarius on May 28, 2019, 07:53:10 AM
I don't see to much reason you need to straighten the trailer. is the sawmill is going to be bolted to it and adjustable? If so I would not mess with straightening. Just make sure you have adjustment in the bolt holes.
Looks good. Looks to me like your axle is upside down. the curve should be up. but I guess in such a light application it doesn't really matter.
Ya, good catch, I need to put the axle on top of the spring, not below, what a maroon aye!
when I built my mill i used an old horse trailer axle and the wheels and tires that were on it. I now have a tire wheel combo that I have to be very careful with. if I do not raise the jacks far enough I can slice the top of the tire clean off with the mill. Watch out for that on your trailer build.
:)
Quote from: doc henderson on May 28, 2019, 05:22:16 PM
Ol cow hand, i think that was just for scale :D :D, and I assume it preps the guys doing the welding, not the material. smiley_beertoast
Hey Doc,
In this case, the term "Welder" can have two meanings: The Machine & "The Guys doing the Welding". You definitely are on the right track.....
I've been banned from using welder prep, for 30 years now, or I would have had a few cans for scale too! If I still used it there would be more incidents like the axle, which I corrected today!
More issues with the axle. Turns out 13 inch tires are deeper than what is usually used on the axle, which put the tire against the frame. I had to widen the axle and move the spring mounts. Another 1-1/2 Hours
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that looks good. at least trailer axles are easy to fix...
Added the Jacks, and the track mounting tabs today. I had some 3x6x1/4" angle and used that for the tabs. 8 hours today 14 tabs, 6 jacks. The arch isn't as bad, but it is still there, I'm still thinking about heating it opposite the shackle welds to try to get it a little straighter!
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looks great Dana, always takes longer than expected, esp. if you maintain high standards.
Dana that trailer is looking mighty good 8)
Quote from: doc henderson on June 01, 2019, 08:48:07 PM
looks great Dana, always takes longer than expected, esp. if you maintain high standards.
Ya, it looks like a few hours of work, but the band saw only moves so fast, and I was trying to keep everything as square and flat as possible. I also ground 45s in all the tabs and in the channel where I mounted the jacks, to get good solid welds. Not sure if I want to weld the track bolts to the tabs, or weld the track mount plates to the tabs, or through bolt it! That was my original plan, but welding is a lot less work than drilling. Through bolting would probably be the strongest, then next strongest would be welding the plates with the bolts already in them!!
If some one had an old pirrana metal muncher punch, see what they would charge to punch the holes. trade them some sawing ect, unless you need the holes on parts already on the mill. then take a mini bench top drill press and rig it up on the mill.
Can you spin the handle all the way around on your jacks? I have a couple that I have to hold them up cause the log bunks. It is very annoying. You are not going to like it if that is the case.
Looks good though.
Can you take the jack handles off and weld a nut on top and use a 1/2" cordless impact to raise and lower it ?
Quote from: Crusarius on June 01, 2019, 09:45:53 PM
Can you spin the handle all the way around on your jacks? I have a couple that I have to hold them up cause the log bunks. It is very annoying. You are not going to like it if that is the case.
Looks good though.
Like Bruno said, my plan is to install coupling nut, like for threaded rod in place of the handles. Then I can use a socket in a twist driver (forget the real name) or a cordless drill. I may get an cordless angle drill, , and use it to raise and lower the mill head too.
I think the track mounting should be bolted as you said was your original plan. Any future adjustments will be easier to deal with than grinding off welds. A magnetic base drill would be just the thing for drilling many holes. Maybe a local tool rental would have one?
X2 what luap said. Sooner or later a big log will get dropped on or large cant turned and the weld broken. Bolt will be easier to replace.
I ordered 5/8" rod couplings (long nuts) for the trailer jacks. I got a bag of 25 for $23.00 not sure what I will do with the extra, but I am sure I will use them sooner or later. They wanted $16.00 for 6. Going to Americade so I won't be able to work on it this weekend.
yeah same comment here. My handles interfered with my carriage and blade guard when I was down to 1" cut above the bunks. I added a 4 inch spacer and still need to remove the handles. I like the nut/drill idea. May have to "borrow" that.
Quote from: Dana Stanley on June 02, 2019, 08:23:55 AMThen I can use a socket in a twist driver (forget the real name) or a cordless drill
I think you mean a speed wrench? Kind of like an old brace drill.
So I have done more, last Sat;
1- I put the long nuts on in place of the jack handles. I used barrel pins.
2-Covered the ends of the main rails, welded caps on.
3-Finished the coupling, and the funky mount for the end of the hitch tubing.
4-Made a moveable mount for the loading winch, and reconfigured the loading winch tube that I had made for my staging deck, so I can use that on the mill. About 8 hrs.
Yesterday I ;
1-Removed the mill head and moved it up the hill to store for now.
2- dragged the track up to the trailer.
3-Removed the pt 2x6s that the track was mounted to, and set the track on the trailer. 2 hrs
I think I'm going to weld the mounting bolts on. There are 6 on each section of track and they are 5/8ths bolts. I can get good solid welds on them. Pics to follow!
Today I got a little more done;
1-Welded all the bolt heads to the mounting plates. Good solid welds, a couple had inclusions, but considering how windy it was not too bad.
2- Fabricated and installed fenders and brackets. Fenders were 40.00 from e-trailer, I used 1-1/4 and 1-1/2" conduit for brackets. Pics to follow. Another 8 hrs, a little brake for hail storm.
Here are some pics! Fender/Bracket/Jack Nut/ end cap/Track mounting bolt. 39.5 hours to this point and I still need to Prime and paint, plus drill holes for pins for the winch mount, and fender mount pins.I also need to fabricate a bracket for a scissors jack and handle to use to raise logs, and rework my ramps so they lock into the bucks when loading logs. The Jack nuts are the same size as the lug nuts, so I'm thinking removing the tire coud be an option if I need to. Especially when it will be in one spot for a while. I may use the jack nuts on the scissors jack, and make a long extension so I can use the speed wrench for that too.
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Today I prepped and primed , then leveled the trailer/ leveled the ends of the track and ran a string to make it all nice and straight. I had a little trouble getting the track all the way down on a couple bolts. They are about 5"s and I had the track all the way up when I welded it, so it was hard to keep them centered on the holes, and square in two directions on the track. I did manage though. 4 hours today here are some pics of the wench arm and bracket.
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Quote from: Ed_K on June 02, 2019, 09:39:19 AM
X2 what luap said. Sooner or later a big log will get dropped on or large cant turned and the weld broken. Bolt will be easier to replace.
I thought about what you said, but decided a sound weld won't break, the bolt should snap before the weld gives up. Also I would rather cut of the welded bolts than try to remove rusty bolts or deal with them loosening up. Either way it's done now, I do appreciate the input though, thanks!!
3 more hours today painting. I want to give the jacks and fenders another coat, maybe put on the bunk covers, then take some final pics. I think for lights, I'm going to use a removable light bar. Wire it from the hitch to the last bay with a flat trailer plug, then make a removable bar with lights and a lead with a plug. Does anyone know if Mass requires side markers for trailers over a certain length? It's a little over 20'. I'm thinking 26 ga Galvanized bunk covers. Any advice on that? The other thing I've been mulling over is the tie down for the head when traveling. I'm thinking put the hitch on a bathroom scale and move the head until I have like 150lbs to 200lbs on the tongue? Then copy Woodlands lock with pins backed by ratchet straps.
I'd put side markers no matter what the law says. Reflective tape too. There are a lot of morons on the road.
Galvanized covers should wear better than the paint but the coating is still going to wear through at some point. Pretty cheap to try out though. Installation time will be the main investment.
Sounds like you've built a nice trailer. And you're almost done.
Almost done , just a few loose ends left. I have the saw back on the tracks, and need to make a lockdown for transport. I have a plan. my mills carriage doesn't have a safety hook/pc of angle to keep it from getting knocked off like others I have seen, so I'm going to put a couple of them on the carriage and under the track; then drill through that and bolt to the track when I move it. Then Lights (a removable light bar) conspicuity tape, and drill out my winch mount for the hitch pins. Here are pics. One is with a temporary cover I made. Eventually I will get a real cover for over the road trips, and have it under a shed when its here at home. 2 or 3 more hours, some second cote paint, and put the saw on it. I was being very careful with it, don't want to drop it now!!
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Quote from: Dana Stanley on June 24, 2019, 05:23:20 PMI'm thinking 26 ga Galvanized bunk covers. Any advice on that?
That is way too light weight for bunk covers. In my opinion, a waste of time, they will get ripped and damaged in short order, now if they were 16 ga., yup.
Nice job. Be handy to have the mill at a comfortable height.
Quote from: RAYAR on July 04, 2019, 02:28:17 PM
Quote from: Dana Stanley on June 24, 2019, 05:23:20 PMI'm thinking 26 ga Galvanized bunk covers. Any advice on that?
That is way too light weight for bunk covers. In my opinion, a waste of time, they will get ripped and damaged in short order, now if they were 16 ga., yup.
Yes I ended up ordering 16 ga. Thats appx. what Woodland Mills uses, from what someone posted on another post.
I finished the tail lights and removable bracket a few weeks ago. The cover is just for when its parked, not when moving. I like that the lights are removable as I can use them for tow lights too, and they wont get broken on the mill.
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Finished the winch brackets, winch post, and modified the ramps so they sit on and fit into the bunks. The winch is attached to a trailer plug-in, or whatever it's called. Anyway, I will be able to use it on the log/tractor trailer that I hope to get soon. 14' tandem axle Big Tex trailer (I hope)! Really happy with how it worked, just using a lawnmower battery for now. Not sure if I will need a deep cycle battery.
My wife took a pic of me using the mill for the first time since I put it on the trailer. Not sure if I want to lower the throttle control or not. It felt ok at chest height, it is predrilled to lower it, just 2 bolts, so I may try it just to see.
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@Dana Stanley (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=41245) I just re-visited this thread because I plan to fab a trailer for my new mill. Any follow up suggestions or "Do-overs" you would recommend? Thanks again for your detailed journey....
Steve
@goose63 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=23477) , Dana has not replied, how about you? Any retroactive design changes you would recommend?
Also, where did you procure the axle you used on your trailer, and how wide did make your frame? please advise. Thanks.
Steve
@olcowhand (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=37942) the trailer frame is 2x4x1/4 tube is the same with as the mill frame the axle I got pioneer rim and wheel
Thanks, Goose!