Trailer build for HM126

[Ed_K]

 X2 what luap said. Sooner or later a big log will get dropped on or large cant turned and the weld broken. Bolt will be easier to replace.

[Dana Stanley]

I ordered 5/8" rod couplings (long nuts) for the trailer jacks. I got a bag of 25 for $23.00 not sure what I will do with the extra, but I am sure I will use them sooner or later. They wanted $16.00 for 6. Going to Americade so I won't be able to work on it this weekend.

[ktm250rider]

yeah same comment here.  My handles interfered with my carriage and blade guard when I was down to 1" cut above the bunks.  I added a 4 inch spacer and still need to remove the handles.  I like the nut/drill idea.  May have to "borrow" that.

[Ljohnsaw]

Then I can use a socket in a twist driver (forget the real name) or a cordless drill

I think you mean a speed wrench?  Kind of like an old brace drill.

[Dana Stanley]

So I have done more, last Sat;
1- I put the long nuts on in place of the jack handles. I used barrel pins. 
2-Covered the ends of the main rails, welded caps on. 
3-Finished the coupling, and the funky mount for the end of the hitch tubing. 
4-Made a moveable mount for the loading winch, and reconfigured the loading winch tube that I had made for my staging deck, so I can use that on the mill. About 8 hrs.
Yesterday I ;
1-Removed the mill head and moved it up the hill to store for now.
2- dragged the track up to the trailer.
3-Removed the pt 2x6s that the track was mounted to, and set the track on the trailer. 2 hrs
I think I'm going to weld the mounting bolts on. There are 6 on each section of track and they are 5/8ths bolts. I can get good solid welds on them. Pics to follow!

[Dana Stanley]

Today I got a little more done;
1-Welded all the bolt heads to the mounting plates. Good solid welds, a couple had inclusions, but considering how windy it was not too bad.
2- Fabricated and installed fenders and brackets. Fenders were 40.00 from e-trailer, I used 1-1/4 and 1-1/2" conduit for brackets. Pics to follow. Another 8 hrs, a little brake for hail storm.

[Dana Stanley]

Here are some pics! Fender/Bracket/Jack Nut/ end cap/Track mounting bolt. 39.5 hours to this point and I still need to Prime and paint, plus drill holes for pins for the winch mount, and fender mount pins.I also need to fabricate a bracket for a scissors jack and handle to use to raise logs, and rework my ramps so they lock into the bucks when loading logs. The Jack nuts are the same size as the lug nuts, so I'm thinking removing the tire coud be an option if I need to. Especially when it will be in one spot for a while. I may use the jack nuts on the scissors jack, and make a long extension so I can use the speed wrench for that too.

 

 

 

 

 

[Dana Stanley]

Today I prepped and primed , then leveled  the trailer/ leveled the ends of the track and ran a string to make it all nice and straight. I had a little trouble getting the track all the way down on a couple bolts. They are about 5"s and I had the track all the way up when I welded it, so it was hard to keep them centered on the holes, and square in two directions on the track. I did manage though. 4 hours today here are some pics of the wench arm and bracket.


 

 

 

[Dana Stanley]

X2 what luap said. Sooner or later a big log will get dropped on or large cant turned and the weld broken. Bolt will be easier to replace.

I thought about what you said, but decided a sound weld won't break, the bolt should snap before the weld gives up. Also I would rather cut of the welded bolts than try to remove rusty bolts or deal with them loosening up. Either way it's done now, I do appreciate the input though, thanks!!

[Dana Stanley]

3 more hours today painting. I want to give the jacks and fenders another coat, maybe put on the bunk covers, then take some final pics. I think for lights, I'm going to use a removable light bar. Wire it from the hitch to the last bay with a flat trailer plug, then make a removable bar with lights and a lead with a plug. Does anyone know if Mass requires side markers for trailers over a certain length? It's a little over 20'. I'm thinking 26 ga Galvanized bunk covers. Any advice on that? The other thing I've been mulling over is the tie down for the head when traveling. I'm thinking put the hitch on a bathroom scale and move the head until I have like 150lbs to 200lbs on the tongue? Then copy Woodlands lock with pins backed by ratchet straps. 

[btulloh]

I'd put side markers no matter what the law says. Reflective tape too. There are a lot of morons on the road.

Galvanized covers should wear better than the paint but the coating is still going to wear through at some point. Pretty cheap to try out though. Installation time will be the main investment.

Sounds like you've built a nice trailer. And you're almost done.

[Dana Stanley]

Almost done , just a few loose ends left. I have the saw back on the tracks, and need to make a lockdown for transport. I have a plan. my mills carriage doesn't have a safety hook/pc of angle to keep it from getting knocked off like others I have seen, so I'm going to put a couple of them on the carriage and under the track; then drill through that and bolt to the track when I move it. Then Lights (a removable light bar) conspicuity tape, and drill out my winch mount for the hitch pins. Here are pics. One is with a temporary cover I made. Eventually I will get a real cover for over the road trips, and have it under a shed when its here at home. 2 or 3 more hours, some second cote paint, and put the saw on it. I was being very careful with it, don't want to drop it now!!

 

[RAYAR]

I'm thinking 26 ga Galvanized bunk covers. Any advice on that?

That is way too light weight for bunk covers. In my opinion, a waste of time, they will get ripped and damaged in short order, now if they were 16 ga., yup.

[richhiway]

Nice job. Be handy to have the mill at a comfortable height.

[Dana Stanley]

I'm thinking 26 ga Galvanized bunk covers. Any advice on that?

That is way too light weight for bunk covers. In my opinion, a waste of time, they will get ripped and damaged in short order, now if they were 16 ga., yup.

Yes I ended up ordering 16 ga. Thats appx. what Woodland Mills uses, from what someone  posted on another post.

[Dana Stanley]

I finished the tail lights and removable bracket a few weeks ago. The cover is just for when its parked, not when moving. I like that the lights are removable as I can use them for tow lights too, and they wont get broken on the mill.

 

 

[Dana Stanley]

Finished the winch brackets, winch post, and modified the ramps so they sit on and fit into the bunks. The winch is attached to a trailer plug-in, or whatever it's called. Anyway, I will be able to use it on the log/tractor trailer that I hope to get soon. 14' tandem axle Big Tex trailer (I hope)! Really happy with how it worked, just using a lawnmower battery for now. Not sure if I will need a deep cycle battery. 

My wife took a pic of me using the mill for the first time since I put it on the trailer. Not sure if I want to lower the throttle control or not. It felt ok at chest height, it is predrilled to lower it, just 2 bolts, so I may try it just to see.

 

 
 

  

 

[olcowhand]

@Dana Stanley I just re-visited this thread because I plan to fab a trailer for my new mill. Any follow up suggestions or "Do-overs" you would recommend? Thanks again for your detailed journey....
Steve

[olcowhand]

@goose63 , Dana has not replied, how about you? Any retroactive design changes you would recommend?
Also, where did you procure the axle you used on your trailer, and how wide did make your frame? please advise. Thanks.
Steve

[goose63]

@olcowhand the trailer frame is 2x4x1/4 tube is the same with as the mill frame the axle I got pioneer rim and wheel

[olcowhand]

Thanks, Goose!