Sawmill Trailer Build

[Lazyguy]

 

 


Testing. This is copied.

If this works, I'll try uploading a photo of my trailer tongue attachment.

[Lazyguy]

On my brand "carry on" trailer. 5 x 8, they use 2" x 3" x 3/16th tongue, I'd guess.
This is only 2,000# load. Picture the photo in the previous post. With 2.5" angle welded to 2 cross bunks, upside down on either side of the tongue. With a few bolts holding it on.

Take a look at this brand at Lowes, and tractor supply. Most of their smaller trailers are set up this way.

Also check out oldjarhead's posts, on the lt10 trailer build. He did a great job covering his build.
If memory serves he does something similar.

As for the wheels, I'd use something like the linn, you posted and not v-groove.
I'd think the v-groove would start collecting a LOT of sawdust.

But for $55 a wheel, I'd shop more.

I think I managed to upload a few photo's of my trailer tongue to my album.
What a cumbersome system.

[thecfarm]

On my mill the tongue is removable.

[Herb Brooks]

Not to say that this is the right way, but it is the way I'm doing mine.  It has been my experience a  tongue that lacks the classic V shape lets the trailer occillaite horizontally as you travel down the road.  I can definately see the merit of a removable tongue. And in hind sight I probably should have bolted mine on. Still would be a V though. Pay no attention to the dates on the pictures.  Clock on camera is all jacked up.


 



 



 

[Timberline]

Thanks for the photos.  That is interesting about how it is better to have the V.  The only reason I don't like the thought of the V is I've thought of having my hydraulic controls up in the front (if I ever get around to adding them).  A V might get in the way, but the way you did it you made the V smaller which might just work for me.  Wonder if the center piece would be necessary?  I was going to use 2x2 for the tongue, but maybe I should bump it up to a 2x4.  Another thought is that I could add the removable one for now and see how it works.

[Herb Brooks]

I really gave no thought to any thing other than my pickup is 7'6 wide, the frame of the mill is 6' wide.  So from there I needed 4 foot to the center of the ball for manuverability in reverse, so I started there. 4 foot out and the V worked it self out.  From the ball coupler back to outside frame rail.  I just tacked it up slow and centered with a piece of string. get it right and TACKED well then weld it out. As far as 2X2 Verses 2X4 on yours, No matter what algorithym your steel supplier is using to determine final price, it all comes down to weight.  Steel is a per ton commodity. Using tubing for the hitch is (in my opinion) giving away money. In this case angle or channel is more cost effective. Your mileage May vary.

[Herb Brooks]

Been thinking about your hitch as I worked on mine, I commented on your hitch without knowing the width of your mill. If your width is such that the V shape ends up being really steep, as in not wide enough to matter then forgo that. But it is probably important to get at least to the first bunk in total length. that will make it more rigid and resist breakage at the junction of hitch and mill frame. Road shock can cause strange things to happen. The last thing you want is to lose your mill and cause someone else pain.

[Timberline]

Great points!  Mine will only be roughly 44" wide.  I think I will make it go back the first log bunk.  How do you attach a coupler to angle?  I always thought it was just made to go on tube.

[Herb Brooks]

There are a bunch of coupler configurations out there. Check out Redneck Trailer supply.  You can google it I don't recall there address,  But if you are going to use a one stick aproach to a tongue the tube is best.  If you look back at mine the center section is infact channel but welded together to make a tube.
Looks like I shoulda kept quite I am being confusing and contratictitory ain't I.

[Timberline]

Oh of course.  That was stupid of me to think that  :-[  You meant angle for the v style tongue.  So maybe I should just do the one stick approach.  After all, Timberking does something very similar to what I'm thinking. 

http://www.timberking.com/1400

Does theirs look like 2x2 to you?

[Herb Brooks]

Sorry been too busy to check in. 2x2x1/4 or 3/16 should do fine, IF, all you ever haul on it is the mill head. Pretty tempting to throw a bunch of boards or slabs or even a log or two up on the mill frame. Just to get them moved inn one trip. Would be for me anyway.

[hamish]

Not to say that this is the right way, but it is the way I'm doing mine.  It has been my experience a  tongue that lacks the classic V shape lets the trailer occillaite horizontally as you travel down the road.  I can definately see the merit of a removable tongue. And in hind sight I probably should have bolted mine on. Still would be a V though. Pay no attention to the dates on the pictures.  Clock on camera is all jacked up.


 

Just set the v portion of the tongue rearwards and have a remove-able center tongue. 

[Herb Brooks]

Good thought. mine will operate from the end opposite from the tongue, so no need I can see to remove it. In fact on level ground I could leave it hooked up to the truck.  I am after all, The most laziest man in the world.