Model 8011.
I had this old saw given to me by member bucknwfl from Florida and delivered to Pa.
by member Josef from Pa. Both very generous persons. Thanks for helping me out.
This is what it looked like hiding under logs for who knows how long.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/IMG_1334.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503043627)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/IMG_1336_28129.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503043671)
This is from yesterday after I drove around 3 hours to pick it up.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06413~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503043797)
Unloading...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06420~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503043991)
This is after I spent around 2 hours getting all parts to move (even the set screws).
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc06422.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503043908)
This is where it all started.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,96892.0.html
I hope to be posting picture each day until it's done.
I picked up a 14hp kohler engine a few days ago that I hope to
use for the power plant.
Thanks again to bucknwfl and Josef.
Is it running yet? Where's the sawdust? ;D
Great questions. I am in for the ride.
:P popcorn_smiley
Hey... I'm working on it...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06427.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503064797)
This is too cool, what a collaboration, and I bet KB will be edging in no time at all.
I got it up where I can work on it. Time for a break. I'm off to the legion.
There is a beer over there with my name on it. I think that long drive yesterday
got the best of me. I'm tired.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06430.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503075439)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06431.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503075502)
Do you think 14 HP will be enough to run it ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06432.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503075634)
Kbeitz--you're a force of nature, and you even have time for a beer?!? 8) 8). No idea on the Kohler, but have you considered one of your electric motors? All the best, Rob.
That should probably work, i have an 18 hp wisconsin and it won't bog down on 2" material at all. Some of the smaller edger out there run a 13hp honda
I had to play wack-ah-mole for about one hour to get the pulleys round again.
This one part was bend so bad that I snapped it off trying to get it back in shape.
It's all welded and fixed ready to go back on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06438.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503094100)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06439.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503094160)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06441.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503094236)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06443.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503094294)
Quote from: 78NHTFY on August 18, 2017, 03:29:53 PM
Kbeitz--you're a force of nature, and you even have time for a beer?!? 8) 8). No idea on the Kohler, but have you considered one of your electric motors? All the best, Rob.
Only had time for one... :D smiley_beertoast
Is that an idler pulley for tensioning the flat belt?
Quote from: grouch on August 18, 2017, 07:21:52 PM
Is that an idler pulley for tensioning the flat belt?
Yep...
I got a stupid question...
What is the infeed side ? I would think it would work like a table saw and the blades would pull the
board down on the table but there is no table and the what I thought was the feed roller is on
the back if I feed it that way. So what is the front or infeed side ?
Does it up saw or down saw ?
Here are some pictures that will help
http://209.164.108.37/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4807
You have it in the right orientation it feeds from the right when looking from the v grove belt pully side.
It saws down. I restored 2 old edgers and this is what I learned: To saw anywhere near straight you should have 4 feed rolls; 2 infeed and 2 outfeed. Make them from cheap pillow block bearings , shafts 1 3/8 or larger and sprockets an inch or so apart. No. 2 and 3 should be close to the saws and absolutely parallel with the mandrell. Please don't be insulted but bellsaw edgers did not saw straight when new. I believe the extra aggressive feed rolls will make it go. Also gravity press rolls come down between the feed rolls. Doug
Quote from: loganworks2 on August 18, 2017, 08:03:49 PM
Here are some pictures that will help
http://209.164.108.37/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4807
You have it in the right orientation it feeds from the right when looking from the v grove belt pully side.
After looking at your pictures I got another question.
Does a leather belt ride on the pulleys or it looks in your pictures that the
Bigger pulleys rub on your smaller rubber pulleys ?
Sorry KB I do not know. The pictures are not mine I found them while doing a search to try helping with your previous question on the infeed. moodnacreek may be able to help with this one.
If you contact Timberking you can get a copy of the manual for it. Also, there should be a very heavy hold down roller that is part of the top cover.
Quote from: millwright on August 19, 2017, 08:20:20 AM
If you contact Timberking you can get a copy of the manual for it. Also, there should be a very heavy hold down roller that is part of the top cover.
Thanks.
I got the top cover and roller. The cover was bent up bad so I just cut it off and
I will make a new one.
I was going to replace the flange bearing but it look like a special size so I repaired it.
It's a good thing I can weld cast iron.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc06445.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503149731)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06446.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503149799)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06447.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503149853)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06448.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503149895)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06449.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503149936)
:P
It's now starting to look like something...
Maybe Monday I'll rebuild the top cover and roller.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06451.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503160203)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06452.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503161597)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06453.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503161642)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06454.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503161690)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06455.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503161734)
I spent another hour straightening and sharping the blades.
Kevin, that is Looking good. I knew it would not take you long
Thanks
Buck
Your feed rollers are powered off your saw mandrel with a short belt/chain that turns the flat belt idler pulley, that pulls the flat belt from the bottom side giving the flat belt an opposite rotation, making the feed rollers turn the correct direction.
I don't know if that made sense.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36609/edger~2.jpg)
Sorry I missed the full belt path on the first image
Old Post, but relevant link.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=34389.0 (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=34389.0)
Has this been mentioned yet?
TimberKing (https://timberking.com/about/)
Quote
Founded in 1929 under the name Belsaw, TimberKing is America's oldest manufacturer of one-man sawmills.
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 19, 2017, 09:39:08 AM
I was going to replace the flange bearing but it look like a special size so I repaired it.
It's a good thing I can weld cast iron.
I've had reasonably good luck welding cast iron by welding very short beads and peening the weld as it cools. No preheat or extended cooling period. Curious what method and rod you use? Thanks.
Quote from: Bob_T on August 20, 2017, 01:22:42 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 19, 2017, 09:39:08 AM
I was going to replace the flange bearing but it look like a special size so I repaired it.
It's a good thing I can weld cast iron.
I've had reasonably good luck welding cast iron by welding very short beads and peening the weld as it cools. No preheat or extended cooling period. Curious what method and rod you use? Thanks.
I use a nickle rod called Nicad. Then I use a air needle scaler to do my peening.
Also when welding cast if it's not broke all the way off I do so before welding
it back on. I use no preheat. I got lucky and bought 500lbs of nickle rods 20-30
years ago form the junkyard for $100.00. I only have around 90lbs left. They still
work great.
Post 5000... Wow.... I just had to type that...
Do you collect Chatty Cathy dolls too? ;) :)
Quote from: Ox on August 21, 2017, 10:21:32 AM
Do you collect Chatty Cathy dolls too? ;) :)
Nope... No dolls sorry. Not even one...
I'm thinking that it might have been easier to make a new top cover than to
repair this one. But what fun is that ?
Anyone know what this little hook is for ? It doesn't do anything.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc06463.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503335559)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06464.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503335610)
And what goes in the collar holes ? One is a square hole.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06467.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503335712)
Paintings done.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06460.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503335795)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06461.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503335849)
Quote from: bucknwfl on August 19, 2017, 03:05:05 PM
Kevin, that is Looking good. I knew it would not take you long
Thanks
Buck
So... buck... Whats the story behind this old machine ?
How did it end up under the logs ?
Every old machine has a story to tell.
that hook looks like it made be a lid stay?
Quote from: Crusarius on August 21, 2017, 01:58:39 PM
that hook looks like it made be a lid stay?
That was my thought if it had something to hook into...
That little "hook' is not a hook....it is an anti-kickback point that is supposed
to pivot on the shaft and ride on top of the board to keep it from being
kicked back into your belly. I think some of the machines had more than one.
here is a picture of the one I had, Only one kick-back finger. shown in the upper right in the center of the shaft below the cover... I posted pictures on the other thread of this edger that I bought new old stock, never used it and sold it to a guy last year in Nashville. He got it running using an 8hp Honda. Says it worked good.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/18700/2254/IMG_0484.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1304723592)
_____________________
Charles in KY sling_shot
I don't remember if the anti-kickback finger pivoted on the shaft or was stationary on the shaft with a lock screw and pivoted with the shaft.
___________________________
sling_shot
Sure make sense. I think i copy it and make a few more.
Thanks for the info.
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 21, 2017, 06:38:53 PM
Sure make sense. I think i copy it and make a few more.
Thanks for the info.
Yes should have two or three,also be careful of that big roll it likes to mash fingers ya gotta pay attention to it.
Quote from: whitepine2 on August 21, 2017, 08:48:39 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 21, 2017, 06:38:53 PM
Sure make sense. I think i copy it and make a few more.
Thanks for the info.
Yes should have two or three,also be careful of that big roll it likes to mash fingers ya gotta pay attention to it.
Thanks for the warning... I'm going to build two more sets of feed rollers one at each end.
[/quote
So... buck... Whats the story behind this old machine ?
How did it end up under the logs ?
Every old machine has a story to tell.
[/quote]
So far the only information I have been able to dig up is that a older gentleman was operating a wood miser band mill. People said it had been at least 15 years since he passed away. He was cutting mostly cedar. He died they sold the mill and pushed all the logs into a fence row. A friend recently bought the property and gave us all the old cedar to help clean up the property the logs are all heart wood and mostly small. We uncovered the saw in the middle of one of the piles
Thanks
Buck
It looks like it was in the rain for 15 years.
Thanks.
Making some new drive sprockets. The teeth was gone on the old ones.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06511.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503536873)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06512.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503536910)
Nice, 8)
I'm doing a lot of mods to this edger even before I motorize it.
I found out it did matter how hard you pushed a board you could
not get it to go under the rollers even with them turning. There had
to be a way to set the gap in the rollers so you could get a board
started and then it would get pulled through. I used a scissor jack
to raise the rollers. It works great.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06516.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605146)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06519.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605196)
Sprockets are done...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06513.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605261)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06514.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605310)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06515.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605352)
I added another roller...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06517.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605412)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06518.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503605460)
takin' a turd and turning it into a machine... good job
I read that the engine need to be mounted above the edger so that it turns the right way.
I did not want to do that so I'm making a jack-shaft.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06520.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503618753)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06521.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503618803)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc06523.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503618906)
Yesterdays work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06538.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503922643)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06539.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503922797)
Be safe with that thing. Don't want to read about it firing a half-cut 2x4 through you. You're already far along in the restoration; no need to rush powering it up.
Today I made the blade adjustment screw and belt guards.
Out of all machine builds I hate making the guards the most.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06543~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1503963724)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc06545.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1503963750)
Are you going to put a dust collector or shield on for the saw dust?? The way it looks now you'd be sending dust right at the motor??
Quote from: etroup10 on August 28, 2017, 08:35:20 PM
Are you going to put a dust collector or shield on for the saw dust?? The way it looks now you'd be sending dust right at the motor??
I'm going to make a saw dust tray to guide the saw dust down and out the back.
I'm hoping it works. There will be a wall between the engine and the blades.
You have been busy. :D smiley_thumbsup
A tricky thing is the relationship between the infeed rolls and the infeed press roll. If it's just right it will take the board right out of your hand. If not you have to shove it in. What works for thin boards might not be as good on thick. Worse yet is frozen or iced boards. I had a lot trouble with this and kept moving the infeed press roll back until the average size board got squeezed between both rolls at the same time.
Quote from: moodnacreek on August 29, 2017, 01:16:13 PM
A tricky thing is the relationship between the infeed rolls and the infeed press roll. If it's just right it will take the board right out of your hand. If not you have to shove it in. What works for thin boards might not be as good on thick. Worse yet is frozen or iced boards. I had a lot trouble with this and kept moving the infeed press roll back until the average size board got squeezed between both rolls at the same time.
I had no infeed press roller. I sure would like to see a picture of what it looks like.
I made one and i hope it works. I did put new sprockets on the lower infeed shaft.
Today I made the battery tray and the dust tray.
I also made a top engine cover and made one to match on the other side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06547.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504043706)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06549.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504043787)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06550.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504043912)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06551.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504043979)
What I'm really waiting to see is how it handles your special spiral lumber. :)
Quote from: grouch on August 29, 2017, 06:14:07 PM
What I'm really waiting to see is how it handles your special spiral lumber. :)
All I would have to do is hook on my turning attachment...
It looks like the in feed press roll is on your hood. The board going in has to be held or pressed down on the feed roll that is turning. these press rolls are gravity [free wheeling]. They are usually mounted on swing arms. If there is only one in feed roll, the press roll comes down about centered on the in feed roll. If there are 2 infeed rolls the press roll comes down between the two [the out feed can also be made this way] If you look at commercial edgers ads you will see 5 bearings on the side: 2 infeed shafts, 1 [larger bearing] mandrel,2 out feed shafts. and 2 over head press rolls on swing arms pivoted towards the operator. Real old edgers where not made this way.
I was told by different people that the roller on the hood is the out feed.
The sprocket side is the infeed. Also my blades would be on backwards if
it was fed from that side. I did not change the blades.
In this picture of someone else's saw you can see the blades are pointed
down towards the sprocket side. That would make the cover roller on the
output side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Image5~5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504052704)
In this picture you can see the roller that I added to the infeed side.
It had none when I got it. I have no idea if it had one before.
You can see the teeth on the blade facing down.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06517~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504053064)
Is the infeed roller attached to the hood or completely separate?
Spring mounted?
Was the original infeed roller steel or some resilient material (e.g., rubber)?
Thanks for your patience. I'm trying to figure this thing out based entirely on your photos, having never seen one in person.
Quote from: grouch on August 29, 2017, 09:38:31 PM
Is the infeed roller attached to the hood or completely separate?
Spring mounted?
Was the original infeed roller steel or some resilient material (e.g., rubber)?
Thanks for your patience. I'm trying to figure this thing out based entirely on your photos, having never seen one in person.
The saw did not come with any infeed roller.
the out feed roller is heavy Is a solid steel heavy steel roller.
I made the infeed roller and it's also a solid steel heavy roller.
The outfeed roller is hooked to the hood. The infeed roller floats
off two arms like the hood.
must have been hard to feed as the board would be through the saws before it got under the press roll.
I got the gas tank and one of the drive belts made and on today.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06555.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504134362)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06556.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504134409)
Quote from: moodnacreek on August 30, 2017, 01:17:46 PM
must have been hard to feed as the board would be through the saws before it got under the press roll.
I was thinking I was missing a roller, but all the other pictures I looked
at had no second roller ether.
Well I had it running today. I did not cut any wood. It took most of the
day to get the belt to stay on. I ended up taking the shaft out in the picture
and putting it in my press. I put a 1/4" bend in the shaft for adjustment.
Now I can rotate the shaft until it tracks good and lag it down. I need to
adjust my points because it's kicking back on the starter. Maybe Monday.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Shaft_bent.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504385787)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06603.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504386071)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06602.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504386158)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06600.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504386255)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06599.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504386396)
What holds the hood down and is that the only means of down-pressure on the infeed?
The hood has a 3" solid steel roller for weight that pulls the board through.
The input side I made a 2" solid steel roller. The 2" roller pushes the board
Down on to chain sprockets. The 3" roller pushes the board down onto a
Splined roller to pull the board through.
Thanks.
So, the weight of the roller provides infeed pressure and the weight of the hood plus 2nd roller provides outfeed pressure.
I don't see anything to keep a heavy cut from pinching the blade. Is that not a problem with edgers like it could be when ripping on a tablesaw? Thinking that if it did bind, it would kick upward in the back which could relieve outfeed pressure and allow it to try to throw it forward.
Quote from: grouch on September 02, 2017, 08:32:55 PM
Thanks.
So, the weight of the roller provides infeed pressure and the weight of the hood plus 2nd roller provides outfeed pressure.
I don't see anything to keep a heavy cut from pinching the blade. Is that not a problem with edgers like it could be when ripping on a tablesaw? Thinking that if it did bind, it would kick upward in the back which could relieve outfeed pressure and allow it to try to throw it forward.
This is my first edger so I don't know how it's going to work.
But I will sure let everyone know how I made out.
My blades are pretty much toast. I looked and looked on E-bay and google for a
12" blade with a 2" arbor hole but I was coming up empty. Last night I looked at
800 12" blades on E-bay hoping someone would have one with a 2" hole. Nothing...
Then I spent around an hour looking at saw-mill blades on Google... Nothing...
I went back to E-bay and typed in 2" arbor and looked at all 300 items. Payday...
I got all three of these blades for $20.00 plus shipping.
12 inch by 2 inch arbor Carbide Blades.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/12_inch_by_2_inch_arbor_Carbide_Blades.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504420641)
A quick question . Where did you get the belts from. I am soon going to need flat belts for an old planer I am rebuilding. Now mind you, my rebuild is not of this caliber ...
Quebecnewf
Quote from: Quebecnewf on September 03, 2017, 03:57:21 AM
A quick question . Where did you get the belts from. I am soon going to need flat belts for an old planer I am rebuilding. Now mind you, my rebuild is not of this caliber ...
Quebecnewf
I spent most of my life working in textile factories. When they closed up I got rolls
of new belting. This new stuff is leather with a plastic type backing. You can by it at
a bearing supply store. You also need a belt lacier . McMaster Carr sells both belting
and laciers.
Could you take a 12" carbide blade with a smaller hole and machine the hole out to 2"?
How do you adjust the blades on the edger for different width boards? I don't remember seeing a handle. It was probably mentioned but I missed it...
Kbeitz, after this project you build one from scratch! Doug
Quote from: Ox on September 03, 2017, 10:41:03 AM
Could you take a 12" carbide blade with a smaller hole and machine the hole out to 2"?
How do you adjust the blades on the edger for different width boards? I don't remember seeing a handle. It was probably mentioned but I missed it...
I was thinking I could take a 12" blade and drill 3 holes in it and mount it
in my turntable and mill a bigger hole. But I think most saw blades is made
from high speed steel.and that would not be easy to work with.
Don't know about larger blades but I cut a section out of a regular 7¼" circular saw blade, it cut very easily with a hacksaw so it could not have been too hard.
Quote from: Hilltop366 on September 03, 2017, 11:51:02 AM
Don't know about larger blades but I cut a section out of a regular 7¼" circular saw blade, it cut very easily with a hacksaw so it could not have been too hard.
If you google it people are looking for old blades to make knifes out of
so it must be good steel.
Quote from: Quebecnewf on September 03, 2017, 03:57:21 AM
A quick question . Where did you get the belts from. I am soon going to need flat belts for an old planer I am rebuilding. Now mind you, my rebuild is not of this caliber ...
Quebecnewf
I don't know if this place is still going and have never ordered from them (found while looking for belting for my lathe; old belt still working):
http://www.hitnmiss.com/25a.html
https://www.mcmaster.com/#leather-belts/=1984q8w
Wow...Some at 6" wide is $70.00 per ft.
It's finished except for putting on the new blades when I get them.
I sawed one board on it and was I surprised on how well it worked
with the beat up blades that's on it. It seems to be working real good.
The 14hp. kohler engine seems to have plenty of power for this job.
I put a roof on it so I can just park it beside my mill without worring
about it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06604.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504568005)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06605.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504568079)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06607.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504568155)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06608.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1504568215)
Nicely done. Maybe the old blades just need some touch up honing and use.
When are you starting on one for me?
Quote from: grouch on September 04, 2017, 08:30:56 PM
Nicely done. Maybe the old blades just need some touch up honing and use.
When are you starting on one for me?
Some of the teeth are missing and it looks like it was sharpened with a
chain saw. I did touch it up the best that I could but it's bad to the bone.
Looks great K. I think a couple more guards need to be installed. Just something with moving parts and no guards scary the heck out of me after seeing a man's arm ripped off his shoulder. :o
Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.
A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.
I'd love to see video of this in action!
Quote from: whiskers on September 05, 2017, 11:54:38 AM
Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.
A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.
Thanks... I'll tie a string to the sparkplug wire.
Maybe I'll make a splitter strip. I would need to make it adjustable because
I can move both blades.
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 05, 2017, 12:40:16 PM
Quote from: whiskers on September 05, 2017, 11:54:38 AM
Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.
A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.
Thanks... I'll tie a string to the sparkplug wire.
Maybe I'll make a splitter strip. I would need to make it adjustable because
I can move both blades.
Got an old set of points? Use 'em as a kill switch. Put a strip of some insulating material between the points and tie your string to that. A little tug lets the points come back together and ground it out.
Quote from: grouch on September 05, 2017, 01:21:55 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on September 05, 2017, 12:40:16 PM
Quote from: whiskers on September 05, 2017, 11:54:38 AM
Very nice, Just curious, how many hours in a day in your neck of the woods?
The off table on mine has a splitter strip in line with the fixed blade that helps maintain alignment as
the board and edgings leave the saws. Dull saws cut crooked lumber even with the strip.
A panic bar or switch (idiot proof if such a creature exists) on the in feed side to kill the engine would have saved an off bearer's hand when his glove cuff was caught by a spur on a slab. The edger had a release lever that lifted a weighted roller from the drive belt. Only problem he couldn't reach it. Being new didn't help matters any.
A very costly error for the uninsured mill owner also.
Thanks... I'll tie a string to the sparkplug wire.
Maybe I'll make a splitter strip. I would need to make it adjustable because
I can move both blades.
Got an old set of points? Use 'em as a kill switch. Put a strip of some insulating material between the points and tie your string to that. A little tug lets the points come back together and ground it out.
Will this work with a battery coil engine ?
In that case, I'd wire it like a boat's lanyard style kill switch -- in series with the safety switch OPENing the circuit instead of grounding the coil.
Example (http://forums.iboats.com/forum/general-boating-outdoors-activities/boat-topics-and-questions-not-engine-topics/264684-installing-kill-switch)
Yes, you will want an Open to Stop switch to cut power to the ignition.
My mill has a big red E-Stop button mounted on top of the engine, which is right under the operators nose. If you have to shut down in a hurry, you can just mash button and the engine stops. Lift the button up again to reset and restart.
http://nz.element14.com/camdenboss/csc1-50/switch-e-stop-40mm-red-release/dp/2083457 (http://nz.element14.com/camdenboss/csc1-50/switch-e-stop-40mm-red-release/dp/2083457)
If you want a longer cable system that you could string along the length of the machine so it can be activated from either end, then something like this.
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Safety/Safety_Switches/Cable-Pull_Safety_Switches (https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Safety/Safety_Switches/Cable-Pull_Safety_Switches)
Switches like that should be dust and water protected for reliability. If you use something unreliable, you will end up bypassing it, and that defeats the purpose.
I have a spring loaded micro switch that I will wire in with a cable...
Thanks...
Good job Kbeitz. 8)
Thanks to all...
I can't wait till I get my new blades. In this picture you can see how bad the blades
are. You can even see cracks in the blade. I only edged one hard Ash board but it worked
really good. After I get the new blades and put them on and move the whole thing out
by the mill and cut with it for about an hour I will report of how well it works. Right now
I don't trust the blades to play with it much.
Thanks again for all the praise and ideas.
Kevin
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Bad_teeth.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1504660585)
That picture just proves that you ain't done yet.
Get back to work, you slacker!
I finally got my blades in. I ended up with six new 12" blades carbide for $20.00
The edger had 11" blades on it but I think at one time they was 12"
It's all put together and ready for work.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06661.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505331109)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/DSC06664.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1505331190)
Great job kevin! I saw a bunch of rust in my way and you saw a new edger. It is all about attitudes!
Thanks
Buck
Quote from: bucknwfl on September 19, 2017, 11:25:56 AM
Great job kevin! I saw a bunch of rust in my way and you saw a new edger. It is all about attitudes!
Thanks
Buck
Anything can be fixed if you want one bad enough...
Thanks again..
Quote from: bucknwfl on September 19, 2017, 11:25:56 AM
Great job kevin! I saw a bunch of rust in my way and you saw a new edger. It is all about attitudes!
Thanks
Buck
You wouldn't happen to have another bunch of rust in your way, would you? Say, perhaps, a 1929 LaSalle Coupe? Just wonderin'.
I go lookin for more rust at the junkyard almost every day...
It's an addiction.
After following this thread, I suppose I should at least go look at mine.
It came with the mill but was loaned out and at a different location. A friend picked it up and hauled it back and stored it at his place a couple of years ago.
I really hadn't much interest in it, till this thread . lol
Quote from: starmac on September 19, 2017, 08:26:40 PM
After following this thread, I suppose I should at least go look at mine.
It came with the mill but was loaned out and at a different location. A friend picked it up and hauled it back and stored it at his place a couple of years ago.
I really hadn't much interest in it, till this thread . lol
If needed I can put in touch with a person that sell new 12" 2" bore blades.
Kinda hard to find...
The unit was not hard to work on after I sanded the rust off all the shafts.
Grouch, not sure i would know one if i saw one. But i will keep my eyes open. Lol
Thanks
Buck
Today is really the first day I put it to good use...
Now I know why they put three grove pulleys on this machine.
Anything over 2" really slips the single belt that I have on it.
Gotta make a trip to the belt store.
How long does it take to change the with of cut for your finished boards?
Quote from: starmac on December 20, 2017, 02:30:14 PM
How long does it take to change the with of cut for your finished boards?
Guess that would depend on how fast you could turn the crank...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Dsc06546_b.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1513812026)
Gotcha, I wasn't sure how they were ste up, figured you would have had a wheel chair motor or something on yours by now.
Quote from: starmac on December 20, 2017, 08:25:28 PM
Gotcha, I wasn't sure how they were ste up, figured you would have had a wheel chair motor or something on yours by now.
Hummmm......
Easy now, then you wuld have to put some kind of generator on the engine, no use having that unless you change the flywheel and install electric start, and so on and on.