iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Lubrication

Started by Shawn, February 26, 2006, 11:51:21 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Shawn

What do you use in YOUR bandmill for blade lubrication???
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

Radar67

Shawn, this has been covered many times on the forum. Most people use water and soap. You can do a search above and find lots of info on lube.

Welcome to the forum.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

Tom

I dont mind saying it again though.
 
Water

Shawn

I'm a member since Oct. I read here somewhere before about water and the cooks saw catolog aboout using diesel or kerosine. Just curious. Thanks everyone!
Shawn...


BTW...still waiting on parts this week and hopfully a truck full of steel by the weeks end...Pics forth coming!
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

Tom

I just went and found this thread for you to read.  I think you might like it.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=850.msg9886#msg9886

Radar67

Here are two I found interesting when I was doing my research on blade lube.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=10365.0

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=14800.0

I use water and liquid TIDE with BLEACH, one cap full per gallon.

Stew
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

BBTom

In winter I use WW fluid here where it gets cold.   I even use a bit of Pinesol in it for better wetting.  Summer is just water and pinesol, or water and WM blade lube.  Been trying to find out if it actually works better than the pinesol.  Not sure yet!! 
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

isassi

The guys from Mr Sawmill are bringing my blind freind's new bandmill today, and they told me on the phone, they reccomend 3 drops a minute of diesel/bar oil....Since I am not a bandmill person, I have read the threads, and will probably go with the majority here in helping Bill get set up. I will try to have pictures of Bill sawing his first log this evening.  :)

loudsam

[quote


BTW...still waiting on parts this week and hopfully a truck full of steel by the weeks end...Pics forth coming!
Quote

Hey Shawn,  I can hardly wait till you start putting the saw together. 8)  I still wish I would have built one.  I have to buy a welder anyway, as it turns out, for all the other things involved with this hobby. ;D

Doug

thecfarm

joasis,I have a manual bandsaw and I use the half diesel,half bar oil.I use alot more than 3 drops a minute.Just a slow drip,one every 3-4 seconds.I can tell when it's not flowing correctly,makes a differant sound.Just have to play with it to find out what works for you.I've cut lots of pine and never had problems with pitch.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Shawn

Doug,
I will let you know what I find. I want something good, But I don't want ti sink a house note into it. It probably will sit and collect dust after I finish using it.
Shawn...
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

kelLOGg

I've been using diesel and would like to switch to a water-based coolant for environmental reasons but I fear rusting out my steel coolant container from the inside. Any basis for this fear?
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

bberry

kelLOGg,
I spent a lot of time looking at the pros and cons of water versus bar oil/diesel lube and found water and additives such as windshield wash, detergents etc. was probably not any better environmentally than the oil/bar lube. The amount of b-oil/diesel lube was very small and did a much better job of coating the blade and disolving the pitch. Others often complain about bearings being washed out by the water/detergent mix. I found that to be true. I do not have a Cook's saw but I do like their recommendations on sawing. I am environmentally conscious but sensible. I use more oil in my chain saw! Will the enviro -nuts stop using oil in their chainsaws? I taught woodshop and boatbuilding for 25 years and never saw stained lumber or smell problems from the diesel/bar oil. Even if there was a small drop on the surface it would be planed off in the processing! There are many more pros and cons but these are a few to help you. Happy sawing.

Shawn

I'm going to call my local Pizza Hut for a 5 Gal jug that the pan pizza oil comes in. I worked there in high school. An example of this jug is below.


http://www.mcmaster.com/

Part # 4135T23
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

woodmills1

I am a bar oil and deisel guy but I just squirt it on from a can when needed or when the blade noise is up.  I tried all kinds of trigger cans and now use the old push on the bottem of the can style. seems the trigger cans dont like the winter.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

logwalker

I have been sawing in the same spot for 4 years using bar-oil/diesel for lube. I use less than 5 gallons a year and I have never seen any contamination on the wood deck below the carriage or anyway else. And you are right on about the chainsaws. Are they going to put windshield washer fluid in them? Hah!! LW
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

slowzuki

Chainsaws are using lube for the metal chain running on metal bar rails. Sawmill doesn't have the same issues.

jpgreen

Anyone ever thought of using Ballistol mixed with water?

It's water soluble, and makes a great lube mixed with water.  Also safe for the environment.  I use it for all kinds of stuff.
-95 Wood-Mizer LT40HD 27 Hp Kawasaki water cooled engine-

bberry

Slowzuki,
       Yes, metal on metal is a good place to have oil based lubrication since it is a better lubricant. A great many band saw mills run metal blades on metal wheels and guides. The blade is held against the wheel and guides with tremendous pressure. This action is not quite the same as a chain saw but there is benefit to having a oil based molecular film between the two. Case hardening of the blade could shorten the life of the blade and may cause erratic cutting in the later stages of a blades life. 
        Water based lube supporters lose their environmental edge when they live in a cold climate and have to resort to using windshield washer fluid straight or as a percentage. Windshield washer fluid uses methanol as it's base and that is now primarily made from petroleum bases. It is a volatile substance that is known to hurt the ozone layer. It is also highly poisonous and should not be left around small children or pets. Many know this substance by it's old name, "wood alcohol". Also I hope most people don't think Pinesol comes from pine trees. Some bandsaw mill manufacturers recommend oil based lube since it is a superior lubricant. Water is not a lubricant but you could say it is a coolant. However the oil based lube can do the same and provide better protection in other ways. I use oil based lube as conservatively as possible since it is expensive! As some say listen to your blade. A quiet blade is a happy blade! Makes me happy too! smiley_argue01

slowzuki

bberry, I'm not pro oil or pro water etc :)

I will say the metal wheels only benefit from a solvent effects of oils keeping pitch off, there is no sliding friction ( we hope! ) for the oil to act on.  Only the backing lip of cooks or WM type guides benefit from an oil based lube for friction reasons.

Oil can dampen high frequency vibes in a blade.

Water and washer fluid are much better coolants, not letting the blade get much over 100 C where as oil can get as high as 300 - 400 C range before smoking.

Oil undoubtedly better lubes between the band body and the cant, probably more important on narrow set blades.

Methyl Alcohol isn't great stuff but the millions of gallons of it sprayed on car windows every winter makes sawmill use pretty insignificant.  It is broken down in the soil quite quickly just as very dilute oil is by bacteria.

I would think there is a good case for the use of one of many types of  fluids depending on what you're cutting.


Russ

I ruined the tire's on my oscar 36" with diesel fuel. I had them machined and put sufolks urethane tires on. Water freezes in the winter, doesn't cut the pitch or run as cool as diesel. I didn't like  w/w fluid either. Too much diesel fuel can make the blade hydroplane and come off. A gal last several thousand boad ft. There are probably many legal reasons why everyone recomends soap and water. Some day I'm going to try biodegradable bar and chain oil, for now I'm using diesel .

shopteacher

Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

Shawn

Where to apply the lube? Norwood applies it before the guide to cool guide and blade. Timberking applies it between guide and log. Is this adjustable? Does it matter? (I'm sure it does)
Shawn...
Change is part of the design process.

Admit nothing, Deny everything, Make counter-accusations

Tom

I think it depends on what you are trying to accomplish.  I use lubrication to wet the surface of the band so that sap doesn't stick to it and gum up the blade.   

My old LT40 put it in front of the drive wheel.  I always felt it should be on the entry side of the cant.   I've noticed that it gets all over the blad regardless of where you put it.  I think the most important thing is to put the application device where it is out of the way of the log and cant.  You don't need to be worrying about tubes being pulled off or being cut.

Putting the lube where it will run under a guide seems to help make it stick to the surface of the band.

wiam

Are any of you putting lube on the outside of the band or does it need it?

Will

Thank You Sponsors!