Easier way to raise and lower saw head

shortlogger · July 07, 2013, 11:24:21 PM

I am looking for a better system to raise and lower my saw head than a manual winch any ideas ? I have thought about a electric winch with a brake but I'm not sure how accurate it will be on stopping on the marks on my scale don't want to spend all day going up and down trying to hit my mark . A more efficient hand winch might be ok but the one I have wears me out when I'm cutting big logs and get to the bottom and have to crank it all the way back up . Thanks and please show your pics of the different methods you have

kelLOGg · July 08, 2013, 05:30:45 AM

It would help if you posted a pic of your mill/manual winch system so we can see how you stop the head with your manual winch where you want it on raising and descent. My mill is manual and has a hand crank and a friction brake. It was easy to add a 12vdc motor to raise the head: release the brake and press the motor on button. To lower the head I just release the brake and the head descends driving the motor backwards making it very easy to hit the mark. My motor has no brake nor does it need one. A wheechair motor has a brake; you might be able to make that work.

bandmiller2 · July 08, 2013, 07:23:37 AM

Shortlog,the premium medium to operate a bandmill is hydraulics,electrics work but are subject to the dews and damps of an outdoor mill.Hydraulic accuated cables are good enough for man hoisting equipment their good enough to move a saw head.My own mill uses a good hyd. cylinder with a double pulley in the yoke.The cable is clamped to the frame,goes down through the double pulley and back up and down to each side of the saw head.That gives me 2" saw head travel for 1" cylinder travel.Put a pointer over a aluminum yardstick and you have a system that's easy and fast to use.I have had zero problems with the cable cylinder system in 10 years.Very easy to feather the spool valve to drop the pointer for the next cut. Frank C.

NCDiesel · July 08, 2013, 09:51:32 AM

While I appreciate the hydraulic suggestion, and wish I had hydraulics, on fully manual mills it is tough to mount a pump because provisions are typically not made to tap power off the engine(no room for direct PTO, no mounting near belt route, etc). Even if you figure something out for hydraulics, hydraulic motors/cylinders/pumps are quite a bit more expensive than electric. Weather-wise, just build weather resistant enclosures around the motor (allow for air circulation though) and all should be well. You could drive a hydraulic pump with an electric motor, but that extra transmission loss and extra costs make that less than attractive and still have all the drawbacks of both systems. I would suggest a 12V DC motor as I would suspect it would be the easiest and cheapest to install.

Like Kellog, I have an MP32 and find no issues with finding the marks. I don't need see a need for a brake since I think all manual mills have a manual brake(not sure on that?). What I found is you really only need help lifting. On my mill lowering iseasy and while lowering I'll flick the switch to get it close, then just manually crank that last 1/8". In just a few hours if milling I have gotten good and can get to the mark very quickly.

Good luck!

pineywoods · July 08, 2013, 12:26:29 PM

I have found wheel chair motors to work well. They are 24 volt, but work well on 12 volts. Built in speed reduction box and built in brake. For powering a hydraulic pump, 12 volt motor is an expensive way to go. A manual mill won't have enough electrical capacity. If you are fixed location, a 110 volt electric motor, at least 1 hp is the best bet. For portable add on hydraulics, an old 5 hp briggs gas motor is the way to go. Think an old push mower...

MSSawmill · July 10, 2013, 05:31:11 PM

I'm guessing the brake you're all talking about is for "locking" the head into position? Anyone have pics of theirs?

Bandmiller, can you get pics of your setup? Seems pretty logical, but I'm curious. What length cylinder are you using? I guess a 12" stroke would give you 24" on the head, the way you're talking...

FWIW, we have an electric winch on ours. A lot easier than a manual one, bit we spend a lot of time slipping past the mark and backing up. Could have a lot to do with the way our head slides on the posts, though.