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engine submerged in water

Started by tstex, January 10, 2012, 12:12:43 PM

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tstex

Gentlemen,

I hope everyone is doing well in 2012.

I know this is not an engine forum, but all of your advice on my Stihl's engine issues have alwys been right on...I would appreciate your help!   ::)

TX has been in a horrible drought and I decided to pump out the remaining water in a 2 acre lake to enlargen...well, the pump was about 1/2 way up the side when we got 4.5" of rain...bottomline, by the time I got there, the pump was almost completely submerged...i was able to pull it out with 40ft of chain and tractor.

The engine is a gas 5HP Honda engine...it couldn't have been under for more than an hr or two, but I know the damage was done...

Can you pls provide me with what typically needs to be done for something like this?  There is no mud involved, but the submerging water was not crystal clear either.

Thank you very much,
tstex

Al_Smith

Drain the water out of it and let it dry out .Squirt some Wd-40 down the cylinder ,gas it up and change the oil .Fire it back up and finish pumping down the pond .That isn't the first engine that got drowned nor will it be the last .

Radar67

I bought a wood splitter a year or so back that had been left out in the rain at a store. The engine was seized from the rust build up in the cylinder. I dumped some marvel mystery oil in the spark plug hole, waited a few hours and the engine loosened up. I kept working the piston up and down for about fifteen minutes, changed the oil, and fired it up. It has worked ever since. I agree with the previous post.
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

Al_Smith

It probabley won't hang if he gets on it  quickly .Fiddle around too long it's a lead pipe cinch  it will .

tstex

This happened Monday, 1/9, and I am going back out there Wed 1/11 and take care of business....

I will drain the oil/liquids, open the spark plug and pour-in some marvel mys-oil, then spray her with a little WD for...remove the air-filter and check the intake of the carb to make sure nothing large is sitting in there...let that all dry-out for a couple of hours in the sun...then refill with oil, make sure the s-plug wire/plug is all dry and gas her up and give her a try...if I have left anything out. wrong order, etc...pls let me know?  I will post-back when i get done and let you know....

Thanks a million guys, I really appreciate it.

Regards,
tstex

T Welsh

tstex,make sure you dry the air filter out completely. a moist or damp filter will not work for you and like all other said,drain the tank from the bottom of line going to carb and the fuel bowl on carb. drain oil and refill, also change filter if applies and blow out the fuel line and change filter if you have one in line. and then button it back up and start it. Tim

tstex

I planned on replacing the air-filter...The last time I ran the pump this last weekend, i ran it until the engine consumed all the gas.  I did open the gas cap [it is a plastic tank with a plastic cap] and looked inside and saw nothing...the gas cap requires a lot of revolutions to tighten-it down and when done, it is [or seems] air tight...I will, however, follow all good advice...thx, tstex

LeeB

Tranny fluid works about as well as Marvel.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Al_Smith

It won't have any water damage or should not .Chances are pretty great it should have shut down before it sucked the cylinder full of water which could cause a hydrastatic lock but I doubt that happened .

The crankcase is full of oil plus the cylinder is coated with a microscopic  layer of oil which will protect it .Most likely has  a solid state ignition coil which is sealed .

As far as a soggey  cylinder WD-40 will displace the water  or ether.Squirt it and let it sit a spell to air out .

pineywoods

I worked on one that fell of the back of a truck into 2 feet of water. It was running full throttle. Bent a few things. ::)
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Al_Smith

Probabley in that situation .I have no idea about the situation with this pump engine .Let's say however  the water rose  before it got in the cylinder the fan on the flywheel would pick it up and take would have a same as if a giant squeezed down on the output shaft .

Oh how we speculate on things over the internet ,we'll all know here in short order if the engine shall live to pump another day . 8) If it does it shall henceforth be forever known as the engine that couldn't drown .

bandmiller2

A friend of mine in Florida was grading around some deep ditches and his foot slipped on the clutch.In the ditch him and his 9N ford completly under water.Pulled him out,drained fluids and I towed him with my truck,farted and sputered but ran and none the worse for wear.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

tstex

well guys,

I went out there today [55 miles from home] and drained the oil [and water]..pull the air filter and dried it...pull the spark plug, open the gas cap, them turned it upside down...oh my...water out of the oil plug...water coming out of the spark-plug and the air-filter/carb area...just left it for about 2 hrs...turn it right side up, then pull the fuel line and poured some gas into the intake & flushed the water...pulled the muffler cover and muffer..let set for another hr or two....then, put 19.5oz of oil back in, cleaned the s-plug and re-gapped, dry air filter back in, etc, then fresh gas...choked it, then gave it a pull and "she hummed..."  hxll yes !!!

thank you very much guys...all is well...hope someday I can return the favor.

Wishing you all the best in 2012,
tstex

Al_Smith

And so it shall ever be dubbed the unsinkable water pump engine . ;D

tstex

No, it is still sinkable, just "unstoppable" with the help of you "good old guys" with a knack of working on engines...

I rented a commercial pump on Labor Day wkend to pump-out 1.45 million remaining gallons in a 2 acre lake that is usually pretty full, but the TX drought did her in...my goal was to deepen/expand and put in a nice "T-Shaped" pier with a roof, electricity and a jumping off area for my 12 & 9 yr old girls, and their friends...I got the water level down to 3-4" in the deep end with a borrowed 2" pump...we must have received 4-5 different 1" to 1.8" rainfalls whenever I got it real low, then I would pump it again - the talk of the town was to pay for my gas because everytime i got the water level low, we would get rain w/in 3-7 days like clockwork.  Before that, it was every 3-4 months if we were lucky...then the 4.5" rain came and it filled it over half full and that is when the pump was submerged...

FInally, when putting the pump engine back together, there was a broken flange bolt that held the muffler, *DanG if I did not try to tighten the other old bolt too much on reassembly and now they are both broken...had to order 2 new bolts and a Honda muffler arrester...the real fun part is going to be getting those broken bolts out with the drill and "easy-outs",,,Easy out my axx!  One was just taken out and screwed back it, so that one should not be too bad...the other one, there is no telling how long it has been in, now rusted...the fun never ends on the ranch !!!!

Thank you gentlemen,
tstex

Radar67

On the left, there is a link to Logrite, contact them for some Blue Creeper and that bolt will not be a problem.
"A man's time is the most valuable gift he can give another." TOM

If he can cling to his Blackberry, I can cling to my guns... Me

This will kill you, that will kill you, heck...life will kill you, but you got to live it!

"The man who can comprehend the why, can create the how." SFC J

Al_Smith

I shoved out something like 5700 yards of dirt in 1980 with a 1942 Cat D4 digging a pond .I had to pump that rascal 4 times during the process with an  antique Jaeger pump that was so worn out I had to throttle the discharge with a ball valve to keep from stalling the engine .Got er done but what a pain in the buttocks that old pump was . Under load that thing sounded like a John Deere it ran so slow .

Took me 5-6  weeks to dig the pond and every time it was pumped was a lose of 4 days .Still have the dozer and still have the pump .

bandmiller2

Tstex,its a cruel joke to call them easy-outs,the spiral ones are worthless the tapered square ones work sometimes. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

tstex

Yeah, "easy-outs" are a joke...I will probably just get a punch, hit em real hard and buy a new set of metal drill bits and just drill them out...

If you think about how the easy outs work, you put the "EO" in the drilled out hole, hammer/tap it in, then push and reverse it out [per the instructions].. that is applying a force into the hole and pushing out, which just makes it tighter...when the EO breaks-off in the hole, then you are XXXX'ed like a house-cat...try drilling that thing out...
Ppenetrating fluids, then heating and cooling, etc...not much to grip onto either...my work is cut out for me...on the bright side, we really needed the rain, so when I am cussing, I will look at it that way... :D

I am, however, open for suggestions?

thx,
tstex

beenthere

I like your idea of center punch and drilling small hole first, then enlarging. Often (at least sometimes :) ) the drill bit will catch and spin the remaining bolt, which you can then reverse the drill and back out what is left. Even if the drill hole isn't exactly centered, the remaining bolt parts can sometimes be peeled out of the threads. beenthere, done that.

Then when cleaning the threads with a tap, don't break the tap off.  >:( That too happens and is not fun to recover the tap. BT :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

whiskers

If you don't have penetrating oil try heating around the bolt and apply a little diesel fuel dextron mix.
Left hand drill bits work well for extracting broke off bolts. Drill a pilot hole as nearly centered as you can, then run a little larger left hand bit to the bottom. If it didn't turn out move up a couple of sizes and try again. You can do this till most of the bolt has been drilled away, at some point you'll be close to the threads and it should turn out. Don't break off a bit and don't ask how I know this.
many irons in the fire.........

tstex

Thanks BT/whiskers...Once I get the hole drilled, I am going to shoot it with PB-Blaster/etc, then plug it with some metal roofing sticky-tape [does anyone else use this stuff for just about everything????]

The one question I have is how deep to drill, as to not penetrate the engine body, yet go deep enought to remove all of the remaing flange shaft????  ???  I guess I could always leave her a little shy, then measure the distance needed to secure the muffler, and cut/taper the ends of the two new flanges...sound good? 

Dang, we haven't talked one iota about c-saws, but sure have come-up with a lot of good solutions...you guys are good!   :D

Thx again,
tstex
:)

Clam77

Every time I've had to drill out a bolt, there's always a small amount of space at the bottom of the hole the drill bit will punch into to let ya know you're there - especially on exhaust manifold holes...  don't think I've ever found one that's been bottom seated...

Those bolts are gonna be HARD though from the heat tempering..
Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

whiskers

The original bolts will have been just shy of the bottom from the factory. If it's bottomed  there's another problem that I don't have the solution. The block will be easier to drill than the bolt and the chips may be different. A piece of tape on the bit for a depth guide after determining how deep to drill may help. It's actually easier to do than describe. If there's room you might consider using studs with brass nuts, easier to remove next time.
many irons in the fire.........

Al_Smith

If you slobber them up with never -seeze you'll be able to get them out the next time .

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