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Author Topic: LT35 blade hook angle  (Read 751 times)

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Offline Irecraera

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LT35 blade hook angle
« on: December 01, 2021, 05:08:47 PM »
Hey everyone, I've been lurking here for quite a while but have never posted.

I've been milling for personal use on a 30ish year old Norwood for about 6-7 years and have been looking at upgrading to something that doesn't beat me up quite as much for a while now.... Its enough work cutting and hauling the logs, I'd like to have hydraulics do the bulk of the milling grunt work for me. So today I bit the bullet and ordered a LT35HDG25 with debarker and a pack of 7⁰ blades. I was wondering what everyone else with a LT35 are running for blades, what they're cutting with said blades and what the performance is like (speed of cut/quality of cut).

On my current mill with a 14hp gas engine I mostly run 10⁰ but have run 4⁰... They were just slow as molasses but did make a decent cut. I cut 90% EWP, 10% red oak, maple and popular. I ordered the 7⁰ mainly because I'm curious what they'll cut like. In 12 months when I finally get the new mill I'll probably get a pack of 10⁰ for cutting EWP .

Offline Chuck White

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2021, 07:00:33 PM »
All I've ever used on my LT40 was 10 Wood-Mizer Double-Hard blades and had no issues!

I've sawn White Pine, Red Pine, Hemlock, Tamarack, Red Oak, Maple, and more, never had a problem!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer, 2018 Silverado 4X4
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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2021, 07:41:05 PM »
   When I got my LT35 7 years ago I bought 10, 7 and 4 degree DH blades with it. I am currently slowly phasing out everything but the 4* blades. They are a must for hard woods or knots in pine or spruce but will also cut soft woods like tulip poplar while the 10* blades will not cut oak or ash. You will love the mill.
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline richhiway

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #3 on: December 01, 2021, 07:50:00 PM »
I have a 26hp LT40 I use mostly 7 for everything. 4 for frozen or tough hardwood. 
It came with 10 but I did not notice much difference using 7 on softwoods. Sharp is the important part :D
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Online Southside

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2021, 07:58:34 PM »
On my 35 I run Turbo 7's, they do very well for me in Southern Yellow Pine, Maple, Gum, and Oak.  
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Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2021, 09:04:40 PM »
Thanks everyone. Good to hear that the 7s seem to be working well for everyone... I kinda figured they'd be good with the extra 11hp I'll be getting with this mill which is why I figured I'd try them.

First couple of dull blades I'll sharpen to 10 and 4 to see how the mill runs with those angles on different trees. Then I can decide what to get the next time I get some blades.

I ordered Silvertips. There was a hundred dollar difference between those and double hard before taxes (per 15) so I figured I'd give them a try and see how they cut. I just wish all the blades I have now could work on the LT35 but my current mill takes 144 :'(... Oh well I guess when I sell the mill next year someone's going to get a ton of blades.

Really excited to up the production with a new mill it's just to bad I have to wait 12 months to get the thing.... Buying stuff sucks these days...

Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2021, 09:08:02 PM »
On my 35 I run Turbo 7's, they do very well for me in Southern Yellow Pine, Maple, Gum, and Oak.  
Turbo 7s don't show up for me as an option on woodmizer Canada's website unless I pick an 1.5" double hard, is that what your running? Or can you get them 1.25"?

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2021, 09:14:28 PM »
I used to run the 1.25" Double Hards, but switched to Silvertips for both of my mills.  You won't be disappointed with the Silvertips, a number of us have made the move.   
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Offline Tristen

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2021, 11:04:32 AM »
I don't think i will ever be smart enough to tell someone else what blade will work the best for them.
  With that in mind, i can tell you what works for me on the LT35 HD.   I cut white pine, cherry, walnut, Black red and white oak, elm, black locust, Osage orange, soft maple, year round.    
 
I picked up a box of 7 degree and a box of 10 degree double hard with the mill.  While wood mizer was taking us through the 4 hour demo on the mill (class lasted over 6 hours) one of the supervisors came out and asked us to try these blades on the mill and see how they worked, he said they were some big special order blades for a big clients special project.    

When we started  cutting we went though a couple 7's and then a couple 10's, after that i started keeping pretty close track of  board feet of lumber cut per blade, per sharping.   The 10 degree blades preformed way better, more bf per sharping and i got way more sharping's out of the 10 degree blades.  I loved the cut from the 7 degree, it seemed faster and smoother, and the knots on the white pine were not a problem, never any wave on the knots.   

I did a lot of experiments with the angle (sharping 10 degree blades down to 9 degree, and taking some of the 7's down to 6's).  I also experimented with a lot of different "sets" on the teeth.  

Then we broke out the "custom" blades from the woodmizer demo day.  We found the angle to be just over 8 degree.   I started custom sharping all of my 10 degree blades to and 8 degree.  Still keeping a pretty close track of BF per blade.  With the 8's i get the smooth cut through the hard knots, but i keep the durability of the 10's.   I have used this custom 8 degree from then on and don't think i will ever have to change again.  It is so easy to have one blade to cut all types of wood in any weather.  I am sure i will try new things with my blades again, however for now the custom 8's are hard to beat.   

This is just what works for me, it may not be correct for you, and i am sure it will not be best for everyone.  Take what you want from that, and disregard what you want,  just trying to help.  
Interest; Wood mizer LT35 HD,   Husky chainsaws, Firewood, sustainable logging, lumber, Kubota compact tractors
"You are the first person to ever see the inside of that tree"

Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2021, 01:31:02 PM »
I used to run the 1.25" Double Hards, but switched to Silvertips for both of my mills.  You won't be disappointed with the Silvertips, a number of us have made the move.  
I'm sure I won't  ;D I'm sure they wouldn't sell them if they were no good. They most important thing for me was the price difference over the double hards... Man oh man the price of blades in Canada is getting high!

Online Stephen1

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2021, 01:38:08 PM »
On my 35 I run Turbo 7's, they do very well for me in Southern Yellow Pine, Maple, Gum, and Oak.  
Turbo 7s don't show up for me as an option on woodmizer Canada's website unless I pick an 1.5" double hard, is that what your running? Or can you get them 1.25"?
Call WM Canada directly and order Turbo 7's. What is on the website is what is in stock. I ordered my 1.5" silver tips 739 Turbo 7's back in September and they just came in. I deal with WM Canada Head office. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #11 on: December 02, 2021, 01:42:43 PM »
I don't think i will ever be smart enough to tell someone else what blade will work the best for them.
  With that in mind, i can tell you what works for me on the LT35 HD.   I cut white pine, cherry, walnut, Black red and white oak, elm, black locust, Osage orange, soft maple, year round.    
 
I picked up a box of 7 degree and a box of 10 degree double hard with the mill.  While wood mizer was taking us through the 4 hour demo on the mill (class lasted over 6 hours) one of the supervisors came out and asked us to try these blades on the mill and see how they worked, he said they were some big special order blades for a big clients special project.    

When we started  cutting we went though a couple 7's and then a couple 10's, after that i started keeping pretty close track of  board feet of lumber cut per blade, per sharping.   The 10 degree blades preformed way better, more bf per sharping and i got way more sharping's out of the 10 degree blades.  I loved the cut from the 7 degree, it seemed faster and smoother, and the knots on the white pine were not a problem, never any wave on the knots.  

I did a lot of experiments with the angle (sharping 10 degree blades down to 9 degree, and taking some of the 7's down to 6's).  I also experimented with a lot of different "sets" on the teeth.  

Then we broke out the "custom" blades from the woodmizer demo day.  We found the angle to be just over 8 degree.   I started custom sharping all of my 10 degree blades to and 8 degree.  Still keeping a pretty close track of BF per blade.  With the 8's i get the smooth cut through the hard knots, but i keep the durability of the 10's.   I have used this custom 8 degree from then on and don't think i will ever have to change again.  It is so easy to have one blade to cut all types of wood in any weather.  I am sure i will try new things with my blades again, however for now the custom 8's are hard to beat.  

This is just what works for me, it may not be correct for you, and i am sure it will not be best for everyone.  Take what you want from that, and disregard what you want,  just trying to help.  
That some good info Tristen and I may just try that with the new mill. That's the best part of having a sharpener, you can fool around with blade angles and if you don't like them just change it on the next sharpen.
What are you running for a sharpener? Right now I have a grindlux. It works good enough but I would write home to mom about it. I really like the look of the WM CBN sharpeners and once I start doing some portable work with the new mill I might just upgrade, I've been looking at the cat's claw as well but it doesn't strike my fancy quite as much as the CBN's.

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #12 on: December 02, 2021, 03:15:56 PM »
Silvertips are cheaper than Doublehards. 
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JD Processor
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Riehl Edger
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Offline Tristen

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2021, 03:31:20 PM »
I don't think i will ever be smart enough to tell someone else what blade will work the best for them.
  With that in mind, i can tell you what works for me on the LT35 HD.   I cut white pine, cherry, walnut, Black red and white oak, elm, black locust, Osage orange, soft maple, year round.    
 
I picked up a box of 7 degree and a box of 10 degree double hard with the mill.  While wood mizer was taking us through the 4 hour demo on the mill (class lasted over 6 hours) one of the supervisors came out and asked us to try these blades on the mill and see how they worked, he said they were some big special order blades for a big clients special project.    

When we started  cutting we went though a couple 7's and then a couple 10's, after that i started keeping pretty close track of  board feet of lumber cut per blade, per sharping.   The 10 degree blades preformed way better, more bf per sharping and i got way more sharping's out of the 10 degree blades.  I loved the cut from the 7 degree, it seemed faster and smoother, and the knots on the white pine were not a problem, never any wave on the knots.  

I did a lot of experiments with the angle (sharping 10 degree blades down to 9 degree, and taking some of the 7's down to 6's).  I also experimented with a lot of different "sets" on the teeth.  

Then we broke out the "custom" blades from the woodmizer demo day.  We found the angle to be just over 8 degree.   I started custom sharping all of my 10 degree blades to and 8 degree.  Still keeping a pretty close track of BF per blade.  With the 8's i get the smooth cut through the hard knots, but i keep the durability of the 10's.   I have used this custom 8 degree from then on and don't think i will ever have to change again.  It is so easy to have one blade to cut all types of wood in any weather.  I am sure i will try new things with my blades again, however for now the custom 8's are hard to beat.  

This is just what works for me, it may not be correct for you, and i am sure it will not be best for everyone.  Take what you want from that, and disregard what you want,  just trying to help.  
That some good info Tristen and I may just try that with the new mill. That's the best part of having a sharpener, you can fool around with blade angles and if you don't like them just change it on the next sharpen.
What are you running for a sharpener? Right now I have a grindlux. It works good enough but I would write home to mom about it. I really like the look of the WM CBN sharpeners and once I start doing some portable work with the new mill I might just upgrade, I've been looking at the cat's claw as well but it doesn't strike my fancy quite as much as the CBN's.
I have the Woodland mills grindlux 4000 and the woodland mills Tooth setter.  The things i like most about the Grindlux is 1. it runs on a 12v battery (i can take it portable, ie county fairs or craft shows) 2. it can be changed to any angle you want. ( some of them have set angles and can not be changed) 3 the grinding wheels are cheap to replace ( look at some of the other brands and the grinding wheel gets expensive).    
When i bought mine, Wood mizer did not have their latest (and cheapest) model on the market.  So for the price there really was no other option. 
I have not yet looked, in depth, at the newest Wood Mizer model, so I have no advice there.  When my grindlux wears out in 10 years or so, i might start looking at something else, but i am extremely happy with the grindlux.   
Interest; Wood mizer LT35 HD,   Husky chainsaws, Firewood, sustainable logging, lumber, Kubota compact tractors
"You are the first person to ever see the inside of that tree"

Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #14 on: December 02, 2021, 04:25:25 PM »
Southside - that's what I meant by there a big price difference, the Silvertips were 100$ more for 15 blades.... They would have to last allllooottt longer for me to pay that price difference.


Tristan - I have the older woodland Mills grindlux with the built in 7, 10, and I think 13 degree angles. You can do other angles you just have to fiddle with it more than I like. It works but I find it slower than I'd like, not bad if you only have one or two blades to sharpen but once you have 10 or 20 dull blades you need to invest more time than I'd like to get them all sharpened. For me the wheels are expensive because of the shipping last time I ordered a few it was 40$ shipping for 1 disc to New Brunswick. I always wait till I place a blade order to get new discs. 
At least if I get a WM sharpener i can pop into the dealer here in NB to get discs when they wear out, that's the main draw for me.

Online Southside

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #15 on: December 02, 2021, 05:02:51 PM »
Are you comparing the same band? I just checked and Silver Tips were $3.12 cheaper per unit.
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Riehl Edger
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Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2021, 06:42:22 PM »
In Canada the double hards are listed at 8.92 more per band before tax... Be glad you don't live up here... Everything is more


Online Southside

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2021, 07:09:04 PM »
Whose on first?  :D

Aren't we saying the same thing? Silver Tips are cheaper? 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Offline Irecraera

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2021, 07:12:47 PM »
Bwahaha I just looked back over my posts.... It was supposed to say double hards are 100 more per 15... My bad

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Re: LT35 blade hook angle
« Reply #19 on: December 02, 2021, 07:41:13 PM »
Well now that we got that straight. I run the Silver Tips, they are cheaper and give me more total board feet overall. 

To say it another way. I run the Silver Tips, they are cheaper and give me more total board feet overall.

:D
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows


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