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Saw Storage

Started by inspectorwoody, September 10, 2005, 12:05:10 AM

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What is the proper way to store a saw over a long period of time...

I have read to empty the fuel and fill the bar lube up and keep in a dry place but this doesn't seem like it would be enough...maybe it is...I don't know and I guess thats why I'm asking!  ;D



'Empty the fuel' means running the engine out of fuel so that the carb is empty.

There are 2 arguments about filling the bar lube..... filling with oil keeps condensation at bay preventing water contamination, but on an older saw, temperature changes may dump out the oil. I'm inclined to fill with oil and take my chances. It's unlikely my saws will ever be stored though...they are always in constant use.

Clean the saw, paying particular attention to the clutch/brake mechanism and the air filter....caked sawdust gets harder with time.

Depending how long the saw is out of commission, lightly oil the starter recoil mechanics and other iron bits to prevent rusting.

Your'e operater's manual should give you correct storage procedure, if you have one.

Alternatively you could sell the saw and release idle capital :D ;D :D

Cheers Tim
Sense is not common




:D I'm starting to clear out what I don't need or feel I won't use but the saws I have now contain some meaning behind them  ;) Three of them are old homelites and my goal is to eventually get them cleaned up nice extra and put them on a nice shelf and ahhh at them  ;D

Thanks for the info guys



Some points to ponder.Do not store the saw on a concrete floor.Do run it completely out of fuel.You may want to use fogging oil on the cylinder[sold for outboard engine storage]It is a good idea for really long storage to remove the bar and chain.The reason being is that elecrolisis could take place because of the dissimular metals[galvanic action] Of course blow all the chips out of the saw.The chain lube,is another story.I restored an old McCuloch that hadn't seen action for 25 years.The oil was like creosote,ugh.


Gadget, I'm with you on the 'ahhh' principle 8)

The selling notion was just a jest if you get my gist.

Al_Smith has a good point on electrolisis, but should you want to ahhh at it with the bar on, then make a thin card 'gasket' to go between the bar and the saw body, and one for the bar/clutch housing face. This will stave off electrolisis.


Sense is not common


It would slow the process down,a tad bit.You would not believe what some of that old mag looks like after 20 or so years.It just turns to powder.Now bear in mind what I am talking about is a saw sitting in a barn for several decades.The deterations pops up in the oddest places.The fuel tank,the bottom of the crankcase.I've even seen more modern saws[Stihl 048],freeze the anti vib mounts where it took a manual impact driver to get them loose.To elaborate on that concrete issue,one item in portland cement is alumina[blue clay].Through some sort of a chemical process it causes the aluminum saw parts to deteriate.This is one reason,for example,why you do not bury aluminum electrical conduit in a concrete slab.


I have been informed that filling the bar oil tank is espesially important when bio degradable bar oil have been used - any comments on that?
Information collector.


The biodegradeble bar oils can gum when sitting in storage over time and seize the oil pump. If the saw is not going to be operated for 6 months or more it is a good idea to drain any biodegradeable bar oil  from the tank and re-fill it with standard motor oil. Then run the saw, making sure to get a good flow of the mineral based oil through the oil pump and onto the bar and chain. When finished, empty the tank.

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