I have been putting her off to long, time to crap or get off the pot. So the questions, I have a 23' x 23' room with a 9' x 5' fire place in the center. Should I start on the best long wall? This is to be mixed hard woods. So can I run qtr sawn oak end to end with say maple? Or will the come and go show on width? Along the walls how much should I hold away? Around the fire place should I also leave a gap? It will not trim out well. Thanks All.
how wide are the boards?
I'd leave a gap at the fireplace.
Quote from: tacks Y on January 02, 2021, 08:33:30 AMAround the fire place should I also leave a gap? It will not trim out wel
By the sounds of it, the fireplace has some sort of stone or "non" friendly base molding material to apply to. Without seeing the place, sounds like a square room with fireplace in center, I would start at fireplace and work out word from corner of fireplace to corner of room, kind of picture frame look. If its a stone hearth, get one of those hand held pin scribes and you can get a nice clean trim against it and still leave a small 1/8" - 3/16" gap consistently that can be filled or left. a bit more waste doing a pattern this way (corner to corner), but really cool once done, if processing your own material anyway, waste can get cut down significantly. Would leave a gap at wall lines, sure your putting base, but if you cut the drywall up to height of new flooring, it gives you another 1/2" of play up underneath without exposure of gap into room.
Quote from: tacks Y on January 02, 2021, 08:33:30 AMSo can I run qtr sawn oak end to end with say maple? Or will the come and go show on width?
Not sure what you mean here... post some pics as it progresses, before and after are always great to see, best of luck
In new construction I put down a removable strip on the subfloor about 7/8" thick and have the masons create a gap the flooring can tuck under. In old work I would snap a line across the room right in front of the fireplace, run tight to the fireplace and straight with the line and then continue to the far wall stopping 1/4 to 3/8" away from the wall. Then insert a spline in the groove of the fireplace row, lay groove to groove there, turn around and head the other direction.
Quote from: Trackerbuddy on January 02, 2021, 04:06:54 PM
how wide are the boards?
I'd leave a gap at the fireplace.
Thinking 4" max and maybe 2 or 3 different widths.
Quote from: Mike W on January 02, 2021, 05:38:52 PM
Quote from: tacks Y on January 02, 2021, 08:33:30 AMAround the fire place should I also leave a gap? It will not trim out wel
By the sounds of it, the fireplace has some sort of stone or "non" friendly base molding material to apply to. Without seeing the place, sounds like a square room with fireplace in center, I would start at fireplace and work out word from corner of fireplace to corner of room, kind of picture frame look. If its a stone hearth, get one of those hand held pin scribes and you can get a nice clean trim against it and still leave a small 1/8" - 3/16" gap consistently that can be filled or left. a bit more waste doing a pattern this way (corner to corner), but really cool once done, if processing your own material anyway, waste can get cut down significantly. Would leave a gap at wall lines, sure your putting base, but if you cut the drywall up to height of new flooring, it gives you another 1/2" of play up underneath without exposure of gap into room.
Quote from: tacks Y on January 02, 2021, 08:33:30 AMSo can I run qtr sawn oak end to end with say maple? Or will the come and go show on width?
Not sure what you mean here... post some pics as it progresses, before and after are always great to see, best of luck
With different types of wood end to end will I have problems coming and going?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31743/100_1316.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1609695941)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31743/100_1317.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1609695991)
I built the fire place and house over 30 years ago. So carpet is well past its prime.
Quote from: Don P on January 02, 2021, 05:40:07 PM
In new construction I put down a removable strip on the subfloor about 7/8" thick and have the masons create a gap the flooring can tuck under. In old work I would snap a line across the room right in front of the fireplace, run tight to the fireplace and straight with the line and then continue to the far wall stopping 1/4 to 3/8" away from the wall. Then insert a spline in the groove of the fireplace row, lay groove to groove there, turn around and head the other direction.
I had not though of this, changing directions. Thanks may go this route.
If I go 4" wide max width am I ok with square ends (no t&g)? Do I need to put a relief cut on bottom with 4" boards?
Square ends should be fine, a relief would not be a bad idea if possible. It would be better not to mix species within a row but if everything is well dried and the space is climate controlled it really shouldn't be a problem either way.
Self propelled crane, I got bigtime envy ;D
Thinking of 15lb felt under the floor good or just another bad idea? My sub floor is 1" pine/ hemlock with 7/16 osb on top and 30 years old.
I'd put 15 lb felt or other type barrier down as a slip sheet between the subfloor and new hardwood floor, both for moisture control and will help with reducing creaks as it helps allow the wood to move with the different seasons easier.
Yes on the 15# felt.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/31743/100_1396.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1617020411)
Wife is happy and project is winding down in time for good weather.
Nice result
Very nice!
tacks Y
I love the mixed floor! Thanks for the pic helping me visualize it. My plan was to install a mixed floor in my new shop. What species did you use?
Thanks Guys,
Quote from: metalspinner on March 29, 2021, 11:39:05 AM
tacks Y
I love the mixed floor! Thanks for the pic helping me visualize it. My plan was to install a mixed floor in my new shop. What species did you use?
The yellow is locust, turned yellow with water base finish. There is R and W oak flat and qrt sawn. Hard maple and spalted maple, ash, walnut, sycamore, tulip, elm, hickory, yellow and black birch. Wife stained most of the wood to bring out the grain. Locust, some hard maple, some hickory and walnut are natural.
What a variety, I like it!
It's kind of funny thinking how styles change. In the '70's I would layout and cut a few rows ahead of Dad on his houses. The goal was a totally uniform plane of red oak, no knots no obvious color changes. He would look ahead at my layout for anything that stood out while swinging "change that board". Boring as a bowling alley :D.
Quote from: tacks Y on March 30, 2021, 08:04:16 AM
Thanks Guys,
Quote from: metalspinner on March 29, 2021, 11:39:05 AM
tacks Y
I love the mixed floor! Thanks for the pic helping me visualize it. My plan was to install a mixed floor in my new shop. What species did you use?
The yellow is locust, turned yellow with water base finish. There is R and W oak flat and qrt sawn. Hard maple and spalted maple, ash, walnut, sycamore, tulip, elm, hickory, yellow and black birch. Wife stained most of the wood to bring out the grain. Locust, some hard maple, some hickory and walnut are natural.
Forgot cherry, willow and rock oak.
Turned out great!
So how did you lay the floor? That was one of your inquiries early on.
It is fantastic!
Quote from: samandothers on March 30, 2021, 09:09:21 PM
Turned out great!
So how did you lay the floor? That was one of your inquiries early on.
Looking at last picture I started in the right corner and came out. Worked well as I fit each board at the fire place and went away from it. I did get a slight bow and not sure how. If you put your head on the floor and look down the line one can see it. I used a band saw and chop saw in my shop (2nd floor) garage so it took many trips and time. Trimming today as the finish is now dry. Finished and installed in 3 sections, front room, dining room, hall.
Quote from: WDH on March 31, 2021, 07:19:34 AM
It is fantastic!
Thanks.
That floor is awesome!
That came out great. I am jealous!
Thanks guys.
This is a $48500 floor, started out buying a mill. Then came a wheel loader and moulder and a kiln. Started this project 6 years ago when the wife wanted new carpet which was 28 years old. I am now on my 3 rd mill, upgraded twice. If I write off all my toys it is a pricey floor, not saying it is worth more than a Lowes bought floor but I did it myself. When I started sawing I was planning on a quarter sawn red oak floor. Will see how this holds up with changes in the seasons (humidity). Plan to order central air in the next 2 weeks to keep humidity under control. Glad to be done and outside again. Just hauled some spalted maple home to saw today.
Turned out great!
Looks awesome!
This looks amazing and I am really happy that it does. I am in very early phase of doing same thing. So far, I am going to use walnut, white oak, maple, cherry, red oak and maybe some others.
I am also sawing for a hardwood floor. I havent gotten very far tho. But I was going to use ash, black that is but I need the wife to look at this floor first. I do like this. I have lots of red oak and black and white ash. Our maple isnt any good for sawing. It gets too cold around hear and busts them.