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Splitter hieght to low how to raise?

Started by slice107, February 21, 2021, 10:37:24 AM

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slice107

Hello our splitter is sitting to low for me. The top of the splitter bed is about 24" above the ground. My back doesn't like that height. I played around a bit and found about 30" is good for me.
Whats the best way for me to get it up to that height? I was jacking it up and putting blocks under it but that's not ideal. It would be allot better just to tow it into place and not have to worry about jacking it up.

I got a welder and grinder but no torches. I thought about adding another axle under the current axle. Also thought about putting bigger tires on it. Also thought about making the current axle into a drop axle. I just need some other ideas please.

 

 

 
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

mike_belben

Pull it up on some old tin car ramps.



Or cut the i-beam vertically with a portaband or sawzall right at that angle brace and weld the stubs below the remaining section of beam with about 2" of lap joint and a gusset brace. Itll bring the wheels in 4" and the machine up one i-beam worth in height.
Praise The Lord

mike_belben

Or dig a hole to stand in.  Keep a tarp over so it doesnt fill with rain.
Praise The Lord

slice107

Haha my dad said the same about the hole.

Chopping the i beam off is a good idea I thought about but it's still not high enough. The I beam is only about 4 inch's tall. I need about 12 inch's total of extra height.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

sawguy21

I doubt if car ramps by themselves would be stable although you could use them to roll the machine onto a table.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

Edvantage

I made ramps from a log than cut v notch for wheels to lock into so it won't fall off on my feet. A low splitter is a back breaker.

driftlessinwi

I welded on those circle mounts for a trailer pump jack on the back corners of my splitter to adjust the height.  It is super nice, I use a cordless drill to make the jacks go up and down.  So there are three total, one on the tongue, and one on each corner on the back.  Here is a pic (not the best but you get the idea).  I had the same issue as you and I like this method because it allows you to level the splitter on uneven terrain, and when you are storing your splitter, or just letting it sit, you can keep everything off the tires so you don't get flat spots/etc.  Hope that helps!  driftlessinwi


 

Hilltop366

Quote from: slice107 on February 21, 2021, 10:37:24 AMThe top of the splitter bed is about 24" above the ground. My back doesn't like that height. I played around a bit and found about 30" is good for me.


So you are looking to raise it 6"?

Putting a bend down near the splitter beam then up near the wheel would probably be the best other that the only thing that comes to mind is jacks out near the wheel that crank down or flip down and lift the splitter when pulling ahead.


slice107

Id like to raise it at least 6 inches.

I do like the trailer jack idea i thought about that one myself. But wasn't sure it was the best use of money. The crane on our splitter inst being used so I even thought about using hydrolic jacks to raise it up.

I did make a set of ramps but wasn't super happy with them. The ATV wouldn't pull the splitter up the ramps had to use the tractor and once it was up there it was sketchy AF. I thought a proper set of car ramps might be better.

Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

47sawdust

See reply # 1 adjust to your ideal working height.

Not car ramps
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

doc henderson

do you move it a lot?   if not then blocks of wood 6 or 8 inches in height, or even pour a concrete pad for the tires and front to set on, or old slab chunks.  jacks at 3 points would give you a portable solution.  Mine only travels about once a year.  I have the tires on blocks, and one under the tongue jack.  to set up, I drop the front and put a log under the back sat on end, then jack the front to make the beam level.  very solid.  you do not want to hit you shin on it then.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

slice107

Yes it gets moved every time we use it. 

Would the axle stay strong enough if I add blocks between the stubs I cut off and the axle itself? The splitter is really heavy and I don't want to weaken it any.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

doc henderson

If the moving is over logs and rocks (rough terrain)  you then may need to brace it front to back down lower where the stubs are.  instead of at each stub axle, would it be easier to do something between the H beam and axle.  My conveyor has a weird axle setup that would not survive rolling up against a hard stop.  I put 1/4 inch rod with turn buckles tha acts as a guard as well.  my conveyor never travels on the highway.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

If you drop the whole axle, it would be the time to address any weight distribution issues.  after said and done, I could use a little more tongue weight on mine for highway driving (the splitter).
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

so I went out and took a few pics.   my table height is 36 inches off the ground, or about even with my jean pocket.  I have pics of the wanky way I used an old axle on my conveyor.  it can roll easily by hand.  and pic of my splitter and splitting area.  all the empty crates as a result of two stoves going though a cold winter.  5 crates left plus what is already in the house and shop (about a cord).  takes about 4 crates to make a cord.



 

 

 

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

mike_belben

on second thought, for anyone raising a stationary splitter, safer than car ramps would be to set the tires inside a set of 10" wide truck rims from a jeep or whatever.. that will cup the tires a lot better and be more stable than car platform ramps.  



i have a friend with junkyards and they weld one rim inside another to make a jackstand, perpendicular to one another.  so the first one is laying flat on the ground and the next is ontop of that vertica like its on a car, and welded to the base rim.  they set vehicles on top 4 of those under the pinch weld to strip them and its impressively stable.   
Praise The Lord

slice107

Adding height between the axle and the main splitter beam is allot of work it's got a weird sliding thing that doesn't come apart easily.

That might be less work then trying to make sure both tires are lined up properly though.

Yes the splitter will be going over rocks and roots and other ground obstacles.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

hedgerow

I would cut your current axle off just outside the braces and put a new axle under the old one to raise it up. I like my beam height around 36 to 40 inches high and I am six foot tall. I like the beams nice and high so I can stand up straight. I do have a log lift.

doc henderson

I bet you could eye ball it so it pulls ok and not wear the tires.  does it do highway speed?  how many miles?  If it was a portable service, I would want it perfect.  around the yard, or town prob. cannot screw it up.   :) :) :)  good luck.
p.s.  I would paint the tank to look like a log with foe bark or wood grain.   :D :D :D
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

slice107

Haha that tank needs to get replaced the fill port on it is about 1/2" inside an doesn't work... Need to get the height up first though.

It doesn't do highway speeds only towed behind atv and tractor. It might have to go into town this summer though for some work. Needs the cylinder seals done and needs some valve work.

I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow. You guys have me some ideas thanks. I'm thinking I might be able to cut the axle frame off the rest of splitter and weld a rimm between the 2. Could add a second if need be. I got some old rims here anyways. I'll have to take some measurements and see what will work thanks.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

stavebuyer

I like the idea of the jacks. My Supersplit kinetic sits up at waist level. Great working height but terribly top heavy and unstable to tow around even at very low speeds.

wesdor

Not meaning to hijack this thread BUT Doc Henderson, where did you get the IBC Totes?  I'm looking for some but the cheapest I've found so far are $65 each. Looking to purchase 10 if I can find the right price. 

taylorsmissbeehaven

Hey Doc did you build your conveyer or just add the axle. I dont want to hijack the thread but I would liker to see some pics of the drivetrain on that thing! Thanks, Brian  
Opportunity is missed by most because it shows up wearing bib overalls and looks like work.

doc henderson

I built it using a truck 12 volt gear reduced tarp motor.  runs independent on a 12 v batt.  I charge it off the engine on the splitter, but could use the fleet wires on my truck.  front and back, have jumper cables and a winch the fits in the receiver front and back.  I think I did a conveyor thread,  I will try to link it here.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

taylorsmissbeehaven

Thanks Doc! ill look for it as well. Brian
Opportunity is missed by most because it shows up wearing bib overalls and looks like work.

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