No water coming from L53 drain?

[RussMaGuss]

I have a load of about 500 bdft of 4/4 walnut that was at around 30% so I have the kiln bulbs set to 110/96. I loaded it monday, so it's only been drying for about 3 full days now, but the bucket under the drain line is bone dry. The chamber is really humid--I have some foam weather stripping around the door and it's soaking wet. I measured some boards at 28% so they could've dropped a bit, but I was thinking the bucket would have at least *some** water in it by now! I just want to make sure that it's functioning properly and that the compressor is doing it's job when it's supposed to. I made sure the compressor switch is "on". The only switch that's off right now is the vent since it's not gonna get too hot out very soon. Thanks for any words of wisdom!

Side question to anyone who runs a circle mill: For 4/4, what size do you mill to? I've been setting my thickness to right about 1-1/16" but I don't get any waves in the boards like my band mill so I'm wondering if I should just mill it right on the money at 1"

[WDH]

At any time did the chamber dry bulb temp exceed 130 degrees?  What is the actual dry bulb temperature?

You should be getting water.  Drop the wet bulb set point to 75 and see if you get water.  If so, that will prove that the compressor is working and you can then raise the wet bulb set point back up to where you want it to be. 

[RussMaGuss]

It could have during the sterilization cycle in my first load. The wick dried out on me so I wouldn't be surprised if it hit 130. Would that mean I need to hop back there, take the cover off and press the little red button I've heard about?

Edit: the actual dry bulb temperature hits 110 and the wet I think was around 97

[YellowHammer]

There are several things that you can double check.  First, make sure the compressor switch is on, as you did.  However, just because the switch is on doesn't mean the compressor will turn in, it's just one switch in the circuit to allow it to turn on.

The compressor will not turn on unless actual measured DB is over 80F.  It's a Freon safety. 

Then adjust the WB real low, say 75, and you should see the control panel display show an "on" indication under the " Comp" on the display.  This means that in fact, the compressor is being commanded on.  It still doesn't mean it will come on, it is just being commanded on.

Then, there is a several minute delay, 6 minutes I think, and the compressor will turn on, assuming the high pressure Freon safety hasn't been tripped, all the switches are in the correct position, and that the dry build is over 80F.  If the kiln temp exceeds 133F while the compressor is runs, it will reopen the high pressure safety, and it has to be manually reset.

At that point, go into the kiln, raise up the intake screen and feel the coils over the drip tray.  They should be cool to the touch.  You should also distinctly hear the compressor running.  You should also see water droplets condensing on the fins if there is enough humidity in the air.  

If none of these are happening, then you may have to reset the Freon safety, the infamous "little red button" inside the unit.  Or you can simply do a continuity check access the terminal strip to make sure both safeties are closed and making a circuit.  

There's lots more things you can do at this point, not the least of which is call Stan at Nyle and have him walk you through the troubleshooting process. Kguy 

I'd recommend always having the vent in Auto mode.  

[WDH]

You cannot run the sterilization cycle with with the compressor on.  If you do, say set the dry bulb at 150 with the heater on and run the temp over 133 degrees with the compressor on, you will trip the "little red button".   To reset it, you have to take the left side panel off the unit and "mash or push" the "little red button".

Make sure that the drain hose is not stopped up and the evaporated water is staying in the chamber instead of draining outside the chamber.  

If you set the wet bulb set point at 75 degrees and if the dry bulb temp is over 80 degrees and if the actual wet bulb temp exceeds 77 degrees for 5 minutes, you should start to see water coming out of the drain hose pretty soon after if the compressor is running properly.  

[K-Guy]

Hi Russ
Here are 2 videos that might solve your problem. The first is the high pressure reset and the other covers your drain line trap.

KilnTech Episode 10: High Pressure switch reset for L53/L200 - YouTube

KilnTech Episode 9: L53/L200 Drain Line Installation - YouTube

If they don't help feel free to call me.

[RussMaGuss]

So I ended up hitting the red button and came back a couple hours and I've got water! It's funny, in the kiln tech video it's stated that you won't hear a click, but I did actually hear a really faint click the first time I pressed it. I'm just wondering when it tripped. I think it must've been on the sterilization cycle because the WB wick fell off and was reading the same as the DB, although the switch for the compressor was turned off (at least I'm like 98% sure!!) At least the problem is solved and next time I'll make sure I know the compressor switch is off so if it happens again I'll know something is up. Thanks for the help guys! 

on a side note, is it possible for it to have tripped when the WB hit 150 even though (/if) the compressor switch was flipped to off?

[YellowHammer]

The high pressure switch can supposedly only trip if the compressor is running and the Freon in the high pressure line exceeds the switch rating.  I've run years sterilizing at 150 and never tripped the safety unless the compressor was running and the temperature exceeded 130 to 133.  I have tripped the high pressure safety more times than Stan wants to know.  I did it just last week, but I run on the borderline.  

If it happens again, you may have a faulty switch.    

[WDH]

You probably forgot to switch the compressor off when sterilizing.  In any event, good to know that you are making water. 

[RussMaGuss]

I didn't want to start a new thread for 1 question, but I want to make sure my unit is still working properly.

I've got 500bdft of walnut in there now between 7-12% and the dry bulb is at 121.6 and the wet bulb goes from 120 to 119.8. The heater is off, compressor is on (almost no water, but I figure that's expected with MC so low) and I figured the power vent would have turned on, so my question is: Is the unit doing what it's supposed to be, or should the power vent be turning on?

I have all the switches turned on (even humidification even though I don't have that add-on)

I'll check the wet bulb next time I'm out there to make sure the wick reservoir still has water, but when I started this load I topped off the container, so I think it should be good. Maybe the wick is a bit ratty. Either way, mostly just wanting to make sure the DB/WB numbers are ok

[WDH]

Your wick is dry or you are out of water in the wet bulb container.  Your wet bulb temp should be much lower.  Sometimes the wick get crusty and dries out.  Since the wet bulb is not wet, the two temps become practically the same.  You cannot use regular tap water in the wet bulb container. You need water treated with a water treatment softener or distilled water.  Otherwise, your wick will crust up and your unit will not operate properly since the wet bulb temp is in erroneous. 

[RussMaGuss]

How much of a danger to the wood is it if the 2 temps are the same? And would bottled water work fine too? That's what I put in there last. I am on well water at home so I'll bring some to my kiln tomorrow, thanks for the heads up! 

[WDH]

Won't damage the wood at your moisture contents because it is mostly dry.

[K-Guy]

How much of a danger to the wood is it if the 2 temps are the same?

Hi Russ
The DB and WB temps should never be the same. If they are the kiln will have a ERR flashing on the control screen. It usually means that your WB wick is dry and needs to be checked.

For water in the WB, pure water means no contaminants clogging the wick and causing early replacement. 

[RussMaGuss]

Thanks for the help! It did end up being that the wick was dry as a bone and needed a couple inches chopped off.

Last question: (for now at least  ;D) Do you guys stuff the wick into the reservoir during sterilization cycle to prevent it from drying out at all? I'm thinking that's how it got so dry in the first place

[YellowHammer]

No, it doesn't matter at that point.  Let it dry out and refill it on the next load.  

[WDH]

My wick does not dry out during sterilization.  In fact, I can go 3 to 4 months without having to cut the wick at all as it stays wet.  I use water from my home well water that has been treated through a water softener system that utilizes a resin bead tank and a salt tank, not some under the sink small scale job.  I also add water the the wet bulb container and make sure that the wick is wet every single day that the kiln is running whether it be normal drying or sterilization. 

[YellowHammer]

My water bottle will almost or just dry out once a load, so I refill it when I load the kiln with wood and don't bother with it again generally.  I keep a gallon jug of water in the kiln box and use that for refills.  Nyle sent me about 50 or 60 miles? of wick one time, (slight exaggeration) and I cut it back a couple inches every few months.  In actuality, I've heat cracked and degraded more of the old style WB Nyle water bottles containers than I've gone through wicks.

I've dipped water out of the drain and it will crust a wick in a month or so, using tap water will make it last 3 or 4 times that. 

The last kiln I bought form Nyle had a fancy automotive radiator overflow jug as the water bottle, and it seems pretty sturdy.

The main thing is that when you see the WB and DB get near each other, your wood is either so wet it's overloading the dehumidifier, or the wick is dry.  

  

[busenitzcww]

You can take the the cover off your control box and look/listen for the contactor of the compressor to click in as well.