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Woodland Mills HM126 tracking problem

Started by clintnelms, March 12, 2017, 04:52:38 PM

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clintnelms

I had the bushing at the time. Since then I've replaced it with the new spring washers. So far no problems.

fishfighter

Quote from: clintnelms on April 07, 2017, 09:20:08 AM
I had the bushing at the time. Since then I've replaced it with the new spring washers. So far no problems.

So, what is this spring or bushing you are talking about?

clintnelms

The Mills prior to 2017 had a urethane bushing on the T handle that you torque for blade tension. The 2017 models come with 4 sets of spring washers instead of the bushing. Changes the torque from 35 lbs to 25 lbs. They'll send them to you for free if you call and ask for them. They did for me at least.

mattyo5

Even though the belt was the ticket here..my bandwheel bearings went at 300 hours or so....so keep an eye on that and I'd be prepared to swap them around that time.  Check my youtube channel for the vids. 
Woodland Mills HM126 Sawmill - modded
Husqvarna 385xp rebuilt and ported
Husqvarna 372xp rebuilt and ported
2x Husqvarna 350 ...rebuilt and ported
Hitachi CS33etdb top handle saw

Steve67g

Quote from: clintnelms on March 13, 2017, 10:08:06 AM
Quote from: pineywoods on March 13, 2017, 10:00:26 AM
Don't know about Woodland mills, but have seen that problem other places. Bad bandwheel bearings. Try this...adjust to where it sorta tracks, then change the band tension a bit, either up or down. If the tracking changes, it's likely a bad bearing. Most mills use 2 in each bandwheel, one good and the other bad will cause lots of angst.

Thanks pineywoods. I'll try that. Never thought to adjust the tension and see if it moves. Talked to Woodland Mills this morning and he gave me a few suggestions to try. Gotta check the belt and make sure it's not worn down to where the blade is riding on the wheel itself. Don't think so though. Pretty sure I changed it not long ago. They're also sending me a new spring washer kit that replaces a silicon bushing for tension. More to come I guess.
Clint, what came in your spring washer kit?  Which direction does the cup go over the tension bar, facing in or facing out?  Do you use all 12 of them facing the same way?  Mine are over 5 years old, but the Mill caught on fire before I owned it.  I'm wondering if they are still good.  Insight?

Steve67g

Quote from: clintnelms on March 13, 2017, 10:08:06 AM
Quote from: Steve67g on August 11, 2019, 06:58:28 PM
Quote from: clintnelms on March 13, 2017, 10:08:06 AM
Quote from: pineywoods on March 13, 2017, 10:00:26 AM
Don't know about Woodland mills, but have seen that problem other places. Bad bandwheel bearings. Try this...adjust to where it sorta tracks, then change the band tension a bit, either up or down. If the tracking changes, it's likely a bad bearing. Most mills use 2 in each bandwheel, one good and the other bad will cause lots of angst.

Thanks pineywoods. I'll try that. Never thought to adjust the tension and see if it moves. Talked to Woodland Mills this morning and he gave me a few suggestions to try. Gotta check the belt and make sure it's not worn down to where the blade is riding on the wheel itself. Don't think so though. Pretty sure I changed it not long ago. They're also sending me a new spring washer kit that replaces a silicon bushing for tension. More to come I guess.
Clint, what came in your spring washer kit?  Which direction does the cup go over the tension bar, facing in or facing out?  Do you use all 12 of them facing the same way?  Mine are over 5 years old, but the Mill caught on fire before I owned it.  I'm wondering if they are still good.  Insight?

Quote from: pineywoods on March 13, 2017, 10:00:26 AM
Don't know about Woodland mills, but have seen that problem other places. Bad bandwheel bearings. Try this...adjust to where it sorta tracks, then change the band tension a bit, either up or down. If the tracking changes, it's likely a bad bearing. Most mills use 2 in each bandwheel, one good and the other bad will cause lots of angst.

Thanks pineywoods. I'll try that. Never thought to adjust the tension and see if it moves. Talked to Woodland Mills this morning and he gave me a few suggestions to try. Gotta check the belt and make sure it's not worn down to where the blade is riding on the wheel itself. Don't think so though. Pretty sure I changed it not long ago. They're also sending me a new spring washer kit that replaces a silicon bushing for tension. More to come I guess.
Clint, or maybe someone else can answer this.  I'm brand new & trying to figure out how this forum works, already asked once, but can't find my post.....anyway....!!!  When putting spring washers on the belt tension bar for my WM HM126, do they face in or out?  That is, cups facing in or out?  Do I use all 12 of them?  Just got this mill and it had been in a fire, so lots of rebuilding and learning.  Any insight is greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

thecfarm

@Steve67g welcome to the forum.
Click on to your user name,or go to your profile,it's on the Menu Bar,the one that starts out with Home Help Search,should be something that say show posts. Click onto that and it will show all of your posts. More things will open up after you have been a member for a while.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79


mitchstockdale

How often are you HM126 owners changing your drive belts?

I am currently having the same problem as the original poster stated. 

I changed my drive belt back in April with good results but have now noticed the blade is pretty much riding on the metal band wheel...one would think that a belt would maintain its crown and width longer than a couple months.  The belt i used was a BX79 from NAPA.  The red PU follower belt appears to be ok but I think I will be replacing both.  any suggestions on more cost effective options... $44 for the belts from woodland mill is fine but add $25 for shipping thats a bit much for two belts..

btulloh

I change mine when they get worn and especially if the blade starts riding on the pulley surface.  They need changing more often than I would have thought.

I have used belts from NAPA and other auto parts stores and Woodland Mills and all seem to last about the same.  I have seen where other people installed brushes to keep the belts clean and I think this would help the overall situation but I haven't done it yet.

https://www.vbelts4less.com/  is a good place to order belts and I use it for lots of my belt purchases.  The pricing is good and I've been happy with the quality.  They have kevlar belts for lawn mowers that are particularly good and a good value.

Tracking has never been a big issue except with some Lennox blades that were not welded straight.  In general, I don't like the Lennos blades but have been very happy with Kasco's.
HM126

mitchstockdale

Quote from: btulloh on August 12, 2019, 10:10:44 AM
I change mine when they get worn and especially if the blade starts riding on the pulley surface.  They need changing more often than I would have thought.

I have used belts from NAPA and other auto parts stores and Woodland Mills and all seem to last about the same.  I have seen where other people installed brushes to keep the belts clean and I think this would help the overall situation but I haven't done it yet.

https://www.vbelts4less.com/  is a good place to order belts and I use it for lots of my belt purchases.  The pricing is good and I've been happy with the quality.  They have kevlar belts for lawn mowers that are particularly good and a good value.

Tracking has never been a big issue except with some Lennox blades that were not welded straight.  In general, I don't like the Lennos blades but have been very happy with Kasco's.
do you still use the red pu follower or do you just run a plain black b57 v-belt? or have you bothered replacing that one?

btulloh

Not familiar with the red follower!  Must be a new thing.

The manual says to change both belts at the same time.  Ehhhhhhhh . . . Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.  Just depends on what the idle belt looks like.
HM126

fishfighter

Quote from: btulloh on August 12, 2019, 10:21:59 AM
Not familiar with the red follower!  Must be a new thing.

The manual says to change both belts at the same time.  Ehhhhhhhh . . . Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.  Just depends on what the idle belt looks like.
Same here. ;D

mitchstockdale

Quote from: btulloh on August 12, 2019, 10:21:59 AM
Not familiar with the red follower!  Must be a new thing.

The manual says to change both belts at the same time.  Ehhhhhhhh . . . Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.  Just depends on what the idle belt looks like.
I have a 2016 model year hm126 and it came with a red polyurethane belt on the follower wheel.... I am assuming you are using just plain old v-belts on your follower.?

btulloh

Correct. I'm guessing the red belt lasts longer. Sounds like good thing. They have made changes and improvements since I bought mine. Most times they've been very good about providing these when I was in the warranty period. 
HM126

mitchstockdale

Quote from: btulloh on August 12, 2019, 12:28:55 PM
Correct. I'm guessing the red belt lasts longer. Sounds like good thing. They have made changes and improvements since I bought mine. Most times they've been very good about providing these when I was in the warranty period.
done deal just gunna go with regular belts this time..thanks btulloh.

jbjbuild

Hi btulloh, I have the HM126 also, which blade from Kasco do you use.
Woodmizer LT35HD, John Deere 790, Logrite Cant Hook

btulloh

I've been using the 7 degree Kasco's.  They seem to work well in SYP, ERC, as well as fresh WO and RO.  I want to try some 4 degree for harder stuff like oak that has been sitting for a while.  My mill came with the 9.5 hp Kohler.  I've sawed 26" WO on it, but certainly more power would be better.  Older oak logs (and hickory) are asking a lot of the 9.5 hp, but generally it's all gotten sawed - just takes a while.

FWIW, I run my guide blocks fairly loose - about a business card thickness spacing.  I set the rollers so they don't make contact with the blade when it's free running, but do make contact when it enters the cut.  Not saying that's the right way or the only way, but it works well for me.
HM126

jbjbuild

Quote from: btulloh on August 13, 2019, 09:44:56 AM
I've been using the 7 degree Kasco's.  They seem to work well in SYP, ERC, as well as fresh WO and RO.  I want to try some 4 degree for harder stuff like oak that has been sitting for a while.  My mill came with the 9.5 hp Kohler.  I've sawed 26" WO on it, but certainly more power would be better.  Older oak logs (and hickory) are asking a lot of the 9.5 hp, but generally it's all gotten sawed - just takes a while.

FWIW, I run my guide blocks fairly loose - about a business card thickness spacing.  I set the rollers so they don't make contact with the blade when it's free running, but do make contact when it enters the cut.  Not saying that's the right way or the only way, but it works well for me.

Thanks! Ive been wanting to try some Kasco blades, but wasn't sure which one to choose with the 9.5 hp. I run my guide blocks the same, I cut up a business card and place one piece above the blade and below the blade and tighten up the guide blocks. I saw mostly Ash, Poplar, Oak & Walnut, so that blade should work well.
Woodmizer LT35HD, John Deere 790, Logrite Cant Hook

mitchstockdale

Quote from: btulloh on August 12, 2019, 10:10:44 AM
I change mine when they get worn and especially if the blade starts riding on the pulley surface.  They need changing more often than I would have thought.

I have used belts from NAPA and other auto parts stores and Woodland Mills and all seem to last about the same.  I have seen where other people installed brushes to keep the belts clean and I think this would help the overall situation but I haven't done it yet.

https://www.vbelts4less.com/  is a good place to order belts and I use it for lots of my belt purchases.  The pricing is good and I've been happy with the quality.  They have kevlar belts for lawn mowers that are particularly good and a good value.

Tracking has never been a big issue except with some Lennox blades that were not welded straight.  In general, I don't like the Lennos blades but have been very happy with Kasco's.
btulloh,
Got my regular belts from napa and put the follower belt on and man its quite sloppy... when tightening the tension handle the belt leaves the bandwheel by about 1/2" on the opposite side.  Got a B57 per the manual.  Is that what you use for your follower?
mitch

btulloh

I'm just using the regular B57s. They also have a gap of 1/2" or more on the side opposite the blade. This is normal and not an issue. 
HM126

mitchstockdale

Quote from: btulloh on September 03, 2019, 12:56:19 PM
I'm just using the regular B57s. They also have a gap of 1/2" or more on the side opposite the blade. This is normal and not an issue.
I got the mill running two nights ago with the new belts and all i can say is wow...its such a pleasure to track the blade now and the blade has a nice ring to it.  I would have never thought that worn out belts could cause such problems.  Replacing the belts not only solved my blade tracking issues but also solved 95% of my wavy lumber issues even with a dull blade.  This is the first "major" service I have done to my mill in 3 years owning it.  Just scratching the surface with learning this sawmill thing i guess..this forum does not cease to amaze me with the wealth of knowledge.

btulloh

Three years is a long time.  Glad you got it purring again and sawing straight.  You were probably running on the pulley surface and not the belt after that long.

I've probably been through 15 sets of belts in three years.
HM126

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