cutting cookies this month

[tule peak timber]

Spanks 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

[logboy]

Hey Rob, which epoxy are you using? I'm guessing you're getting it by the gallon? Does it bubble bad? I have a few furniture projects coming up where I need a bunch and buying 100 small tubes isnt really feasible.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

Does it bubble bad?

I saw a video where a craftsman heated his epoxy with a torch after applying it to the cracks.
I don't mean cooking it..... :D.....but just barely heating it until the bubbled went away.

[tule peak timber]

Hey Rob, which epoxy are you using? I'm guessing you're getting it by the gallon? Does it bubble bad? I have a few furniture projects coming up where I need a bunch and buying 100 small tubes isnt really feasible.

We use AeroMarine , West Systems, and Smiths. All have different properties , much like tools in a tool kit. After mixing your epoxy, let it set for a few minutes to allow entrapped air to escape. We use a heat gut to GENTLY pop emerging bubbles. Also -do your epoxy in several layers , depending on what you are doing, and your last layers will have zero bubbles coming up.  Rob

[logboy]

Without taking up too much of your time or secrets, maybe you could narrow it down? I'm filling cracks and insect holes in tables in oak, maple, ash, etc. Ive heard to first do an initial coat on the wood surrounding the crack before filling in the void to avoid bubbles (the heat releases gas from the wood apparently). How does the stuff sand/clean up afterwards? Is it like sanding concrete or soft? Do I have to worry about scratching it with a heavy grit?  Thanks so much for your time.

[tule peak timber]

Hi Logboy, On cracks and holes , I mix wood flour into a paste -putty and work it into the voids. With practice a person can start with the mixed epoxy , add some wood flour and start filling the smaller cracks to the point it starts sinking in . Add a little more flour and keep filling larger and larger voids, etc, etc. You can also tint /color your putty mixes with readily available epoxy additives, metals ,talc , microballons,  precious stones, dyes , etc. Buy wood flour outright, or generate it yourself by fine sifting sander dust. I always grind between coats with 36 to 220 grit in steps.Definitely hard sanding - but clean sanding - a property I really like. Hi quality abrasives ( German or 3-M ) are a must for efficiency. Smallest voids I fill with a water slurry of wood floor filler with conversion varnish within a few hours of the last epoxy coat .Again , another trick that takes practice but yields high quality results fairly quickly in an VOC restricted environment like California .You can also wet grind the epoxy itself with the right abrasives and final out with 3-M Finnesse -it  to a 1500 grit polish. Make sure your finishing schedule is applied to ALL surfaces of your slab and you will have a quality product. Hope this helps.  Cheers  Rob