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LT40 Manual to Hydraulic Upgrades

Started by Meadows Miller, January 30, 2012, 06:09:01 PM

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pineywoods

Stuff you would love to add to an older bandmill

1 Log turner/clamp
2 Powered Toe roller
3 powered backstops
4 simple cheap setworks
5 sawdust blower
6 simple cheap remote console.
7 bed extension

On the older woodmizers, almost none of the factory parts will fit without extensive welding/cutting. Not a good idea
The killer on the first 3 items is a source of power. Not much way to use the main engine. If you are fixed, electric motor driving a hydraulic pump is probably the most feaseable. For portable use, there is 12volt dc power or a small gas engine. 12v dc has a whole bunch of drawbacks, I favor a small gas engine mounted in a separate unit with quick disconnect hoses.  ie, use your log splitter ?
I'm still looking for a way to add a simple setworks to my old mill. The new simple setworks looks like just the ticket, alas it won't adapt without a bunch of re-work.
I hate shoveling sawdust in a fixed location. I do have a sawdust blower, but has some inherent problems. It uses a long flex hose which is constantly tearing somewhere. Lots of duct tape. There has to be a way to use rigid thin wall pipe.
Remote console - do-able for a few hundred bucks, I have one, but found it to be almost useless without setworks.
Bed extension--The factory 6 footer will fit after a fashion, but it's a continuous hassle to keep it aligned. One FF member has come up with a jig to install alignment pins that solves the problem...There's pics and descriptions in the sawmill forum. 

Notice there is no mention of a log loader. Money better spent on a tractor or something with forks.

Mary Parsons makes some valid points. Support for an up-graded mill could get to be a real problem, especially during installation. Up-grading at a service center might make more sense.

Then there is the cost factor. At what point is it better to take bibby's approach just swap for a later model..

1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

MotorSeven

MM, no, I just use a 60 & 78" Logrite. If they are really big I wrap a chain on them and turn them very carefully with the tractor forks. It works and is a little time consuming, but it sure beats standing around waiting for a few neighbors to come and help ;)

In all honesty I would much rather upgrade. But, I built my own extension so I can cut out to 26-ish feet, so if I want a LT35HD to do that it's gonna cost a lot of $ on top of the mill price.
WoodMizer LT15 27' bed

Meadows Miller


Keep the 15 for the long stuff thats what I was going to do if we got a 15  ;) ;D ;D 8) 8)
4TH Generation Timbergetter

Brucer

Quote from: MartyParsons on February 02, 2012, 11:09:21 AM
WM has discussed this some, a customer who purchases a new mill usually does not do any up grades to his mill during ownership.

I guess I'm one of the exceptions, Marty. But I wonder if one reason people don't do upgrades is that the upgrades they want aren't available.

I started with the intention of running a part-time, money making business. I didn't have the budget for anything more than an LT40 manual and I was not sure how much market there would be in any case. As it turned out, there wasn't much of a market at first. However, I began to create a new market after about 6 months, and after another 6 months I was at the point where I could use some additions.

  • My first priority was a hydraulic clamp, to save walking around the mill. Not available, because the frame would have to be modified.
  • My second priority was a debarker. That was available.
  • Third priority was a hydraulic loader. That had just become available as a bolt-on kit.
However, without the hydraulic clamp, or at least a clamp that could be operated from the "driver's side", I didn't want to invest in any other upgrades. Note: I would have been able to do the first upgrade if the LT40 manual had the same frame as an LT40 hydraulic.

The upshot was that I upgraded the whole mill by buying a hydraulic LT40 with a debarker.

  • Within 6 months I had added an autoclutch.
  • The following year I added a remote dragback (salvaged off a Super-Hydraulic).
  • Shortly after that I added the front and rear Fine Adjust Outriggers (new style). If I was still doing a lot of mobile work I would have added the other four FAO's later.
  • Three years ago I added a 6' extension. Two years ago I added a second 6' extension.
  • Last year I added a solenoid to the gravity feed lube system (poor man's LubeMizer).
Over the years I have been constantly improving my material handling capabilities. I'm at the point where there is not point in doing more sawmill upgrades until I speed up material handling even more. But when that point comes, here's what I would likely do ...

  • Home-built "booster" loader for the first extension. I have a bolt-on design that could incorporated a lot of WM parts. This could be offered as a kit.
  • Home-built tie-rod to link the side stop on the first extension to the main side-stop system. This could be offered as a kit as well.
  • Home-made bolt-on roller system for offloading long timbers from the back end of the mill (using a lot of WM parts).
And then ...

  • Upgrade head and power feed motors, along with the battery and alternator.
  • Add a second hydraulic pump.
  • Add Accuset 2.
  • Convert to remote operator station.
  • When I finally wear out the 28 HP gas engine, upgrade to a diesel.
In effect I would be building a super-hydraulic mill. Why not simply trade up to a Super? Because I can do the change in affordable increments, interrupting the upgrade if I get hit with another economic downturn.

There is no particular reason to do the upgrades in that order -- it happens to be the one to suit my operation.

You mentioned that a lot of people advise to buy "the most mill you can afford". So what if a first-time sawyer invests a lot of money and finds out the interest isn't there, or the work isn't there? Now he/she has a big (and possibly embarrassing) investment that  isn't earning its keep. By offering a completely upgradable mill (based on the LT40) you may pick up quite a few customers -- for new mills and for upgrades. I wouldn't be surprised if such a mill would have a pretty good resale value as well.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

stumpy

I have a manual LT30 with the hand crank log turner.  I simply replaced the manual crank with a 2500# electric winch.  It works great and was relatively cheap.
Woodmizer LT30, NHL785 skidsteer, IH 444 tractor

Bump

The buss rail and a RF control module are my current add on got the simple set love it and with the power from the head and full remote RF control using a control logics plc and remote I/O for bed/material handling. I'm big on using barcodes from the butts to side of milled lumber. For the clamp Thompson linear bearings and a single flip up clamp just as on the sawers side.

Ohio_Bill

Wow Bump , You have been busy on your LT40 . I would love to see some pictures of modifications. Sounds great.
Bill
USAF Veteran  C141 Loadmaster
LT 40 HDD42-RA   , Allis Chalmers I 500 Forklift , Allis Chalmers 840 Loader , International 4300 , Zetor 6245 Tractor – Loader ,Bob Cat 763 , Riehl Steel Edger

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