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562XP running rich

Started by Sprinter, July 10, 2022, 10:44:52 PM

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Sprinter

I have a 2012 562XP and it recently got a new ring. With the new ring I did the field reset. The idle reset was obvious done right as it idles fine. I did the load reset by ripping a (4"-6") cedar.
It did not run strong so I put this down to the new ring.
Yesterday, I helped a neighbor block up his pile of (4"-12") birch firewood (took an hour). And I noticed a bit of 4 stroking. Today, I went 1000' up the hill for some (10") fir and the 4 stroking was more pronounced though it does run well and strong. So at the end of the day, I put it into an old-growth stump that I could bury the 20" bar into and let her work (must have been over a minute maybe 2).
When I got home I pulled the plug and it was black not tan. As a side note it has developed a bog at start. Never had it before. By the way the carb has never been updated. Other than the ring updated filter and plugged decomp it is all original. It has only been thru 2 tanks with the new ring.
So my problem is it is running rich and bogging at start.
I'm at a lose as to where to start and any help would be appreciated.
Fred (Sprinter)

rusticretreater

I suppose you mean piston ring?  Piston rings and the cylinder wear together and form a tight seal.  All of the rings should be replaced as a set and the cylinder milled or replaced at the same time.  Otherwise you will have a poor seal and combustion, uneven wear and lots of blow by.

Can you explain what you mean by "four stroking" and be more specific on the engine work that was done?  Thanks.
Woodland Mills HM130 Max w/ Lap siding upgrade
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Warn Winches 8000lb and 4000lb
Husqvarna 562xp
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Spike60

562 only has the one ring, and I expect you mean the cylinder should be honed, rather than milled?

Question I have is what shape was everything in when the ring was replaced? If only a ring was needed then I figure the piston and cylinder were in decent shape. Also, was a pressure/vac test done? If you get a chance to plug the thing in and get fuel readings, they will tell us a lot. One guess is that the lo fuel number is somewhat lower (richer) than it ought to be, as the AT could be dumping fuel into the saw to compensate for an air leak in the bottom end. Just a guess on my part, and I'm assuming the worst with that theory.

On the other hand, it may simply to soon after the rebuild to be looking for an issue. It does seem to have gotten stronger from the first to the second tank, and that should continue for the next few tanks as it fully breaks in. The change in elevation may be the cause for the fuel settings moving around. Maybe run it some more and see which way she goes.

Husqvarna-Jonsered
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Sprinter

Sorry about the delayed response. I haven't been able to get out to the shop for 3 days. 
Been spending most of my time in the bathroom.
Got out there today for a quick look and found interference with the choke lever. I think it must be one of the  kill switch wires.
Why do I have to over think every thing.  >:(  Now back to bed!
Fred 

rusticretreater

Well it depends on the condition of the cylinder and reason for replacing the ring.  A honing of the cylinder is a minimum to help seat the ring, at least it is in four stroke engines.  "Breaking the glaze" we used to call it.  But yeah, milling would be overkill for a small engine like that.

But since there is only one ring, piston rattling and burning would obviously be a problem with lean fuel, the cylinder might have ended up with a taper or out of round.  As a fella who has built engines, that is just how I see things.  As cylinder sets are not all that expensive, one might simply opt for a new setup.

I'm going to read up on working on chainsaw engines and what is industry practice in rebuilds.  As I have a 562xp myself, I want to know what is going on.

Woodland Mills HM130 Max w/ Lap siding upgrade
Kubota BX25
Wicked Grapple, Wicked Toothbar
Homemade Log Arch
Big Tex 17' trailer with Log Arch
Warn Winches 8000lb and 4000lb
Husqvarna 562xp
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Sprinter

I've always used Muriatic Acid to deglaze cylinders.

Spike60

I hate working with and smelling that crap. It does have the advantage of removing larger deposits that you couldn't use a hone on. But unless I'm dealing with a cylinder that cannot be replaced, I don't go the acid route. If it's beyond a quick hone, it gets tossed.
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395

Real1shepherd

"Wigglesworth" method for me.... ;D

Kevin

Sprinter

I'm just de-glazed a clean cylinder. Yes it is nasty and you gotta be careful.
Skidoo racing team used to use it instead of a hone, don't know if they still do. 

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