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Directional Felling Techniques for Narrow Tall Leaning Fence Line Trees

Started by YellowHammer, December 16, 2022, 08:24:09 AM

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Walnut Beast


Skeans1


Old Greenhorn

Skeans, you left out the second question to go with that thought: "Do ya feel Lucky? Well, do ya?!" :D :D
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 In the interest of having a comprehensive set of suggestions I should add you could try this making the notch above the top fence string with a deep enough tenon, the trunk will sty on the stump after the fall and you can pick it out with the machine, or whittle the log down.


 

 I only do this rarely when the tree MUST fall where the hole is. To help make sure the tenon stays in the slot, you should use a humbolt opening on the face. I have seen arborists use the method to keep the trunks from hitting the ground near the stump to protect sidewalks, curbs, and other stuff.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Nealm66

The best way I've found to avoid barber chair is ti cut in on both sides before starting the back cut. This of course if you're not trying to swing( falling the direction of the lean). This has proven helpful while topping or on very steep ground with blow down and no escape path. I've also noticed a Dunbar helping if swinging is necessary. Hope this helps 

reedco

      pull the staples and let the wires lay on the ground?  Just another idea.
Not many trees

thecfarm

Nealm66,I always cut on both sides.
My Father cut a lot of trees for firewood and I had no idea what a barber chair was. He cut on both sides too.
I went to work with a guy that was clearing a lot for a nursing home when I was about 16. I found out what a barber chair was.  :o
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

YellowHammer

Some feedback, I have not dropped a tree on the fence line since I learned these techniques on this post and done probably a half mile maybe 3/4 mile or so - Thanks!

I've tried several, and have been trying as many as possible to get some practice on them.  The one I've seem to settle on most is a shallow face cut directed to a gap of trees in the woods, generally at a 45° to the fenceline, away from where my mini excavator is sitting parrallel to the fenceline.  Then I do the back cut, and I try to stop just before the kerf starts to sag and I leave it a little hinge heavy on the upstream (excavator) side for a little extra pulling wood to the woods.  Then I ease up on it with the Kubota excavator parrallel to the fence line and push and swing at the same time into the woods and the extra hinge helps pull it off the fence and swing it more than the shallow, parallel angle I can push from the fenceline with the excavator.  At that point, the top either drops clear to the ground or hangs a little, but either way its clear of the fence and in no danger or hurting it anymore.  Then I'll just finish the drop pushing it down through the canopy with the excavator if its hung, and done.

Thanks again.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

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