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First sawmill

Started by OldRedFord, February 15, 2022, 08:55:08 PM

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moodnacreek

Quote from: OldRedFord on February 26, 2022, 07:30:18 PM
How can I tell what size Frick mill the carriage is from?
The runners the ells move on are 50 inches long. The Ells have 1180C stamped in them and the wheels are about 9 inches aross.
I am not a frick man and would not know but when you talk sawmills know the headblock opening [the distance from the headblock upright to the saw or add 1/2" if mill is apart] . And know your mandrel diameter and collar diameter. The set shaft size also. This info will give the expert a good idea what you have.

OldRedFord

Set shaft is 1 11/16" and the head block opening is 40" so it looks like it's a Frick 01 carriage. 

I've got one of the head blocks bound up. What would be the best way to go about freeing it up? This bound up rack is not impacting the rest of the head blocks moving. 

Also noticed the setworks advances forward nice and easy but retracting the head blocks takes a lot of effort. 

 

 

 

 

moodnacreek

40" opening is a decent size, probably all you would ever need. The steel car channel carriage frame is the way they are made today, that is also a good thing. It looks like the set lever could be used by a carriage rider but I see no platform for him so there must be a reach rod.

OldRedFord

Quote from: moodnacreek on February 27, 2022, 08:21:29 PM
40" opening is a decent size, probably all you would ever need. The steel car channel carriage frame is the way they are made today, that is also a good thing. It looks like the set lever could be used by a carriage rider but I see no platform for him so there must be a reach rod.
It does have the reach rod. The bar that holds it up is broken off and missing. 

Ron Wenrich

Retracting always takes more effort, as you're moving a greater distance in one stroke than you do when advancing.  Looks to me you need some good penetrating oil.  Sponsor Logrite has Blue Creeper which I used for a lot of my lube on a big mill.  Keeps everything moving without any oily buildup, which attracts dust.

If its bound up and not affecting the headblocks, I would wonder if the key is still there in the cog.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

DanMc

Can't wait to see this up and running, especially if it's driven by a steam tractor.  I get my annual fix going to the Rough and Tumble Steam show in Lancaster cty, PA.  They have a mill that they run from a steam tractor.  It's marvelous to watch.
Steam tractor running antique sawmill Sawmills in action Rough & Tumble Kinzer, PA - YouTube
https://roughandtumble.org
LT35HDG25
JD 4600, JD2210, JD332 tractors.
28 acres of trees, Still have all 10 fingers.
Jesus is Lord.

OldRedFord

Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?

I assume right hand to tighten?

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

rusticretreater

The threaded end doesn't protrude from the nut?  For something that spins rapidly, usually the nut screws on in the same direction as the rotation.  

You can spray it with a solvent and try to work it back and forth until it comes off.  Or heat it with an acetylene torch and then remove it.

Are you talking about the blade arbor?  You can try to chock the blade with a chunk of wood, get a pipe wrench and a pipe that fits over the handle and use that leverage to get it off.

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Cornerstone

Wow. I'm in for the ride!
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Ephesians 3: 17-21

beenthere

Use the proper box-end wrench on your arbor nut. Not a pipe wrench so's to keep from junking up the nut.

At 41:00 on this video link.
Trouble-Shooting a Small Circular Sawmill - YouTube
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

OldRedFord

When I go back ill take a picture of the end of the blade arbor. The shaft stops just short of threading through the nut by two threads.

Been workimg on rough grading the sawmill site some more. Also brought back half the log deck and the concrete footings for it today. They are roughly 2x2x4 foot each.

The trough at the top of the trailer load is extra sawdust chain trough. 



































Cornerstone

Sheesh... and I thought I had a lot of work ahead of me! :o I better just stay quiet.
Case 580SK backhoe, New Holland L228 skid steer, Kubota 900rtv, Home made band mill, 1968 Chevy C50 Dump Truck, 1972 C10, 2009 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 dually, all sorts of motorcycles.
Ephesians 3: 17-21

OldRedFord

Quote from: Cornerstone on March 13, 2022, 11:00:55 PM
Sheesh... and I thought I had a lot of work ahead of me! :o I better just stay quiet.
I very much do. The building you see in some of my pics is my in progress barndominium build. 1/4 residence and 3/4s hobby machine shop. Also do my own stunts and generally can be found working alone. 

 

 

 

moodnacreek

Old Red, You seem to be the person who will actually get it done. Most who start to set up an old mill never finish or can't get it to saw if they get that far. I just changed to a newer mill and it is running now. Took 6 months and that was with existing concrete and steel legs. Worked 7 days a week and the last 3 weeks dialing it in. Are you going to set those concrete squares in concrete?

OldRedFord

Quote from: moodnacreek on March 14, 2022, 07:41:15 PM
Old Red, You seem to be the person who will actually get it done. Most who start to set up an old mill never finish or can't get it to saw if they get that far. I just changed to a newer mill and it is running now. Took 6 months and that was with existing concrete and steel legs. Worked 7 days a week and the last 3 weeks dialing it in. Are you going to set those concrete squares in concrete?

The blocks were just in the dirt. I don't plan to set them in concrete. 

Thanks for the compliment. The guy I got the mill from said pretty much the same thing. I seem to have the drive to take on a project like this and the tools to get it done. Helps having machine shop equipment too. 





 

moodnacreek

Old Red, Seems to me those blocks will settle. Up here we have frost heave and perhaps different soil so they would not be deep enough. Can you flood them with water a few times ? That might be the trick.  My long time friend who helps on the mill on weekends has a machine shop. We are working on a top saw for my mill now.

tacks Y

Quote from: OldRedFord on March 13, 2022, 10:20:06 AM
Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?

I assume right hand to tighten?
I have had luck with big nuts, pipe fittings. Use one big hammer as a back up and smack the other side with the smaller one, do all sides this way.

moodnacreek

Quote from: tacks Y on March 15, 2022, 09:15:01 AM
Quote from: OldRedFord on March 13, 2022, 10:20:06 AM
Arbor nut seems frozen. Best way to go about getting it loose?

I assume right hand to tighten?
I have had luck with big nuts, pipe fittings. Use one big hammer as a back up and smack the other side with the smaller one, do all sides this way.
That is what I would do. The 'dolly' should be heavier than the hammer. In theory it will stretch the nut. The condition of the collars is the real concern here.

OldRedFord

I found a picture of the saw arbor and nut. 

Hope this helps.the discussion.

 

moodnacreek

Somebody's been there, it should be the other way with a thread or 2 exposed. Any way it's got to come off with the hammer trick or the blue wrench. Might be the wrong collar, check the diameter of both collars as they must be the same. they should be refaced on the lathe, 3 thousands tapered so only the outer edge touches the saw plate. the drive pins should be like new also that is no notches or bends. If you don't know about these details get the book. The bearing next to the saw must be in top shape also as to make no heat as just a little will swell the saw.

rusticretreater

Yeah something is wrong there.  The nut is not fully engaged with the arbor and so the holding power is weaker.  Funny its weaker, but you can't get it to come off!

Soak it in penetrating oil, try the hammer method, then the torch and leverage on the wrench.  If all the other nuts and bolts on the saw are standard sizes with no really difficult to find thread sizes, you can probably find another nut to fit it. If you have to, get a nut splitter and let it have it.
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Ron Wenrich

I've had an arbor nut seize on the arbor a couple of times.  It comes from hanging a saw.  The first time was due to inexperience.  Another time I had a problem log that had rot that came off the dogs in the middle of a cut.  Not pretty.

The first one took me a long time to get off.  The second one was cut off with a torch.  If the nut is seized on due to an accident, your collars will probably be smashed. 

Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

thecfarm

You got some equipment!!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

moodnacreek

The drive pins drive the saw with the help of the collars that clamp it. These 2 pins are mistakenly called shear pins even by some experts. If those pins even get dented by a hang up in the log the nut will be over tightened . That will tend to flatten the taper machined on the collars. If the pins are bent or sheared the threaded spindle end may be bent in addition to the collar damage. Also that nut gets tightened by hand with a wrench half the diameter of the saw with the pins against the 2 pin holes in the saw so they don't get slammed in the holes.  Jamming a saw in the cut is to be avoided at all costs.

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