What is the procedure in leveling the log for milling

[alsayyed]

I am having little problem when I mill some logs. I set the log on my Logosol mill then I measure the thickness of the slab which is going to cut is roughly two in. when I reach the end of the finish I found out that two inch from right then 1 inch at left of the slab I mean the thickness is not the same. I know I have problem with leveling the log. Is there any formula or procedure you people follow when it comes of leveling the log.
By the way I set the scale or the pointer right and left equal. Need some advice or method of leveling please.

[Raphael]

Generally speaking you don't set the two scales equal until you have a flat sawn side down on the lifters (bunks).

There are two ways of squaring a log into a cant.

The first method uses the scales and works well if the log is fairly round and evenly tapered.
Put the log on the mill and raise it until the top surface is even with the tops of both scales.
Then read the scales and subtract the smaller value from the larger and divide the difference by 2, this is your adjustment factor.
Now you raise the smaller end of the log up the amount you wish to slab off and the larger end up by that amount plus the adjustment factor and take your slab.
At this point your can start taking boards by counting clicks or flip the log over and take the slab from the opposite side with your scales set even.  I usually flip and square first as it's easier to keep track of where you are with the scales even and it helps to rebalance any tension in the log.

The second method is to raise the log up to roughly where you'ld like to take the slab, step back several yards and look at the way the log sits on the mill.  What you are trying to do is picture a straight line through the heart of the tree (length wise) and then adjust the bunks (lifters) until that line is parallel with the guide rail.  This is the best approach for dealing with logs with odd swellings, shallow bends and/or an asymmetrical taper.  Once you get good at eyeballing the cant you'll find it's alot faster than doing the math.

[alsayyed]

Well thank you Raphael I appreciate your answer I think I would say stay a way from the math. I will concentrate on the second method. I will  load this 26 inch log on the bed hopefully the M7 will handle the log because we have tried to lift the log last night but could not make it very heavy. But next week I am going to build a log lifter  have got the idea how to do it and it is going to be very easy lifting the log and I going to post some photos once I finish the project.

[Dan_Shade]

you can also raise the centers of the logs so you are sawing parallel to the center.

[PineNut]

I use Dan_shade's method and level the center cuts.

[woodbowl]

The whole point in leveling the log is to trick out the most lumber or the best quality lumber or both.

With this in mind I focus on where the usable wood is. In my case with a band mill, I enter the cut on the small end because there is forgiveness for misjudgment when finishing the cut on the butt end.

Raising the small end to center it into the butt is used a lot, but there may be some extra usable short wood in the butt flare by allowing the top to be slightly below center, but not below a line that extends below the largest gap from the bed.

Also, positioning the log "crown down or bow down" gives an equal point of reference from the bed to the log on each end. Normally, it's not desireable to have unequal distances at these points because this is the location where the longest, clean wood starts.

You can measure, remeasure and measure some more, but the quickest method I've found is the "how many fingers method". .... How many fingers does it take between the bed and log? Two, four, .... then equalize accordingly.

At this point, I measure the lowest point on top of the log to the bed and subtract an inch or so depending on how willing the customer will accept a wayne board .... or not.  :-\