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2 Cycle Oil Husqvarna xp, Amsoil saber, OPTI-2

Started by tbrickner, February 25, 2009, 05:13:11 AM

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SwampDonkey

I won't argue with that. Although, I'm not sold on the 'fact' there is virtually no smoke. I know different from using it.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

sbhooper

There is virtually no smoke, but the FACT that I referred to is that your equipment will last longer. 
My woods crew:

MS 361
MS 260
Husky 257
Husky 359

656 International w/grapple
Kawasaki Mule
Huskee 22 ton splitter

SwampDonkey

"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

sbhooper

Thanks!  I am glad that I found it.  I have been cutting trees for a long time, but after spending only a short time here,  there is obviously lots that I  do not know about saws etc. 
My woods crew:

MS 361
MS 260
Husky 257
Husky 359

656 International w/grapple
Kawasaki Mule
Huskee 22 ton splitter

tbrickner

To All:

It seems like many have used the Amsoil Saber at 80:1 or 50:1 ratio in chainsaws with a lot of success. 

Has anyone used the OPTI-2 at 100:1 ratio with good results? 

Also, does the Amsoil Saber contain fuel stabilizers?  If so how long is the fuel stabilizer good for?

Tom

Rocky_J

I'm just leery of any oil having adequate lubrication abilities when diluted down to 100-1. Synthetic oils these days are pretty good, but I don't believe that Amsoil or Opti are twice as good as the other top oils labeled for 50-1 use. I think it's simply a way for those companies to get more money out of the same oil but make it look like it's not so expensive. When you break it down to how much you're paying per ounce of oil, it's criminal.

I use a top name brand synthetic, but I mix it at 50-1.

cheyenne

TB I've never had a problem with carbonizing or anything else. I think it makes my saws run cooler and better & I run saws six days a week. People ask me why my huskys sound so throaty & theirs sound whinny. But they run 50 to 1 and won't change. But you know how us old dogs are---Won't let go of a bone smiley_old_guy....Cheyenne
Home of the white buffalo

tbrickner

cheyenne

Thanks for your advice.  I have some regular synthetic I ave been running through my saws for a while so I am sure they are broken in.  I also use Shell 93 octaine gas to lower the heat to the enginne.  It sounds like I'll stick with 50:1 on synthetic with both my saws.  I just want to make sure I don't have a problem with carbonizing.

HAS ANYONE HAD ANY LUCK WITH THE OPTI-2?  I UNDERSTAND IT IS A GOOD 2 CYCLE OIL WITH A GREAT GAS STABILIZER?

Tom

sbhooper

I don't know if there is actually a fuel stabilizer in the Amsoil Saber, but I know that you can keep it for quite awhile because I have.  It should not be an issue, though, if you mix it in gallon quantities.  I have had it in 2-cycle garden equipment from one summer to the next with zero trouble starting the next year. 

I have used Amsoil at 100:1 mix and works great.  They are not going to put it out if it If you don't feel comfortable at that mix, then run it at 50:1 or whatever you want.  It is exactly what it says it is.   You will not have carbon issues with it either. 

I cannot speak for other synthetics as I have never tried them. 
My woods crew:

MS 361
MS 260
Husky 257
Husky 359

656 International w/grapple
Kawasaki Mule
Huskee 22 ton splitter

SwampDonkey

I never had carbon issues with it's use in brush saws. In fact on some maintenance courses they pulled plugs on the saws and such and they were clean as could be after a season of use. But for me it gets too expensive especially when a new saw is bought every other year, compared to several years for a chain saw. Guys keep old saws for parts even if the motor is good. It saves a lot of time and running when you have a box of parts in the back of the car and don't have to waste a whole day going into the settlements, often times 50 + miles away to get stuff fixed. Or a spare saw in the back of the truck you can retrieve and got back to cutting, then take the saw in the evening for repair work. Some guys will work on saws into the evening at the shops because their business is out of the garage or shop next door. Time is money, and if the blade ain't spinning in brush you don't make a dime.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

tbrickner

To All

I have done some checking on other 2 cycle oils.  There are some recommendations of Belray H1R  or Klotz R-50 at 32:1 or 40:1 ratio's and old mobil Mx2t used in racing.

Has anyone had experience with these Belray H1R or Klotz R-50?

It looks like you can't get the Mobil Mx2T any more. 

cheyenne may be on to something in keeping the oils at 40:1 or 32:1 see the following link.

http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/oil_test/index.htm

Tom

oldsaw

I've got a nice little stash of 2T, enough to last me for a while.  Then I start to search for the next synthetic.

Once you have run synthetic, especially for milling, you never go back.

Mark
So many trees, so little money, even less time.

Stihl 066, Husky 262, Husky 350 (warmed over), Homelite Super XL, Homelite 150A

tbrickner

Has anyone used the Belray H1R  or Klotz R-50 in a chainsaw with any good results?

cheyenne

If your using something with good results why would you change.....Cheyenne
Home of the white buffalo

tbrickner

Cheyenne:

I am trying to find the best 2 cycle oil to run in my saws (good oil coverage, good compression and low carbon build up) and wanted to find out what types of oil has worked for people who get a lot of use out of their saw.  I know that some brands will carbon up the saw depending on mix ratio, and saw tuning.  I keep my saws tuned up based on season but was interested to see what 2 cycle oil people have had luck with over the past 10 years.  I want to stick with a synthetic but there are lots of pie in the sky claims about some of these 2 cycle synthetics.  Locally I can get Husvarna xp, Amsoil Saber, Opti-2, Stihl, and Belray H1R. 

I know some people like to mix at 32:1, 40:1 and 50:1.  I think for my saws the 40:1 or 50:1 ratio would keep the saw cool and reduce the posibility of carboning up the saw by burning the oil.  I am in the process of buying an infrared thermometer to check my tuning vs oil ratio mix to see how the oil mix heats up the engine.  I know you typically try to keep the engine below the 180 to 190 deg range.

From what I have read on some other sites, the Belray H1R works well at a 40:1 ratio.
The Sthil and Husvarna ar 40:1 or 50:1.
I know that some people have had hit or miss with the Amsoil Saber and don't typically mix it at the full 100:1 ratio but take it down to 40:1 or 50:1. With these variations I think I'll stay away from the Amsoil Saber.

I know you lean toward the 32:1 ratio.  I would imagine you have your saw tuned a little rich and take advantage of the lower rato to get optimum sweet spot in performance out of your saw.  I want to make sure my saws run coolier and it seems from the dibate on ratios that a higher ratio 50:1 runs the saw a little cooler than the 40:1 or 32:1 ratios, but I also want to make sure I don't limit the oil too much and end up scarring a cylinder or loose the sealing properties of the oil.  Likewise I don't want to put too much oil in the system and end up varnishing or coating the cylinder.

What type of oil has worked for you at the 32:1 ratio?

I hope that some people will post the oil that has worked for them along with the ratio they are using the oil at, and how long they have been using it for.  I need to make sure whatever oil I end up with works for me for an 8 hour day of serious cutting.

Thanks for your help and comments!
Tom

johnjbc

LT40HDG24, Case VAC, Kubota L48, Case 580B, Cat 977H, Bobcat 773

bandmiller2

John , all three are name brand, likely not diddle differance between them.Really most use so little 2cyc. oil that price is not a factor.You use the best you can find,today thats synthetic or a blend.Thats my opinion,nothing wrong with dino oil,2cyc.engines are a high stress application you give them every advantage you can.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

sbhooper

I just want to add something on the blend oils.  To legally be called semi-synthetic, an oil only has to have one percent synthetic in it.  In other words, it can be a scam.  Go petroleum or synthetic.  I would not use semi-synthetic in anything.  The same goes for vehicles.
My woods crew:

MS 361
MS 260
Husky 257
Husky 359

656 International w/grapple
Kawasaki Mule
Huskee 22 ton splitter

tbrickner

John,

Stay away from the royal purpal.  In the cycling world this doesn't seem to hold up so I wouldn't use it.  The pennsoil 2 cycle has good reviews and you probably won't go wrong with it.

barbender

I used to run the Klotz synthetic in my race snowmobile, it was good stuff and it smelled like dish soap. I even ran a little through my old 266 husky, not enough to make any judgements other than it didn't blow up and it smelled nice. :) I am sure not sold on that 100:1 ratio that amsoil advertises, I'm really leary of that. I still run Jonsered oil in my saws at 32:1 or 40:1, I don't trust those leaner mixtures, I've never had any carbon problems at those ratios but I did have a Jred 2165 throw the main bearings at the recommended 50:1. So now I run them richer.
Too many irons in the fire

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