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Shade Cloth

Started by clintnelms, September 27, 2016, 07:40:53 PM

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clintnelms

Do any of you use regular shade cloth from lawn and garden centers for air drying? I've looked into Shade-Dri a little and I believe it's kind of expensive. I've had zero luck air drying oak. I'm in South Georgia so the heat is rough. I was thinking of getting some regular shade cloth and covering the ends and see if that prevents the checking and splits.

Glenn1

Are you using Anchorseal to protect the ends?
Vacutherm IDry, Nyle 53 Kiln, New Holland Skid Steer, Kaufman Gooseneck Trailer, Whitney 32A Planer

clintnelms

Quote from: Glenn1 on September 27, 2016, 08:17:36 PM
Are you using Anchorseal to protect the ends?

Yeah I forgot to mention that. I use anchor seal on the logs soon as I fell the tree. I don't go back and reapply though after I mill though. Should I be?

MIsawyer

Using shade cloth from a home and garden center would certainly be better than not using anything.  You should apply another coat of anchor seal to the board ends after sawing if possible to help from checking. 

clintnelms

I've seen a few threads of people using burlap with good results. I'm interested in seeing what everyone uses. I have my lumber stored under my lean to shed. But I guess I got too much air flow.

MIsawyer

I have also successfully used burlap. 

clintnelms

I just got my quote back and that stuff is expensive. If I was milling for anything but myself I could probably justify the cost, but not for just my hobby use. I'm not sure if I'd need this size I got a quote for either. My thoughts were for a stack 6 foot tall with boards at max length 16'. I don't know if I just need enough to just cover the ends or what. Here's the quote.

For 1 panel of SD04 measuring 5' x 30', the price comes to $88.60 + shipping.

For 1 panel of the same size in SD07, it comes to $93.81 + shipping.

DansSawmill

put your stickers within a inch of the ends of the board and it will help the lower boards keep from splitting.
Dan's Sawmill
Custom Sawing since 94
CNC woodworking too
now with a 98' lt40 super

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

With a thick enough coating of Anchorseal, and maybe two coats, one on logs and one after sawing, and good stacking, you will not need the Shade Dri on the ends.  It helps on the top and on one face for species like oak and hickory.  The weather in south GA will not hurt pine, poplar, maple, ash, and so on.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

YellowHammer

I do several things to limit end checks in oak.  Certainly, Anchorsealing as soon as the log hits the ground is best, or as soon as it's bucked.  Then, put the stickers very close to the ends, as they will arrest most end splits.  Even though I'm under an awning, I will stack my oak packs one layer back from any sun exposure, and to limit wind. 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

5quarter

   I don't use shade dri products, but I do have several black tarps used to cover the 40yd dumpsters when in transit. they are a thick, perforated fabric that cuts the airflow through a stack by more than 50% and keeps the sun off. Ideal for initial air drying when working with oak. I got mine for free from a container company that had a few damaged ones at their shop.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

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