iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Milling Old Barn Beams

Started by ejb17, January 27, 2019, 02:37:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ejb17

I had a customer bring me a bunch of old barn beams to mill. He is going to use it for flooring and such at his lake cabin. They are big,old, and heavy. Trying to decide what blade to use, Regular 7°, Turbo 7°, or 4°?
Being fairly new I have a small assortment of blades and hope to narrow my inventory down to just a couple. I am going to mill at 1 inch so he can have 7/8 flooring when done.
Already have picked out come nails so I am expecting a few of those but he has agreed to compensate for damaged blades and I should be able to complete the job in 3-3 1/2 hours.
USA - Believe in it, or Be Leaving it!
2005 LT40G28

terrifictimbersllc

All will probably work, and I am usually carrying all of them.  But I always put on a 4 when milling old beams regardless of wood type be they white oak or SYP.

Ruining blades is one thing but ruining the wood is another. De-nailing is the ticket, use a wand detector on each face of the beam, or get the customer to,  and if it sounds clean you will not hit metal.  

p.s. all this talk about blade lube, if it's old SYP, what I call fatwood, sometimes a hundred glugs of Cascade won't do it.  Have a squirt bottle of diesel handy.  Or open up your Fuel Manager drain and soak a brush and hold it against the blade to get back to sawing straight. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Southside

If it's really dry white oak and you have problems with it you may want to consider bi-metals, they will stay sharp longer in those conditions.  I would be really leery about promising he will get 7/8" finished flooring out of 1" rough sawn. The lumber should still go through a heat treatment cycle before being milled into the final flooring and it will move and shrink some believe it or not.  You also have to allow for thick and thin due to band dive, beams which are not square to begin with, surface defects, etc.  at 7/8" you are only allowing for 1/16" per face in the moulder, unless he wants a rustic finish he may not be happy with the final result.   
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

richhiway

Let us know how you make it and post a few pictures of that pretty lumber.
Woodmizer LT 40
New Holland 35 hp tractor
Stihl Chainsaws
Ford 340 Backhoe

WDH

I am with Southside.  With a 7/8" finished target, 1" rough is not thick enough. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

YellowHammer

For finished 7/8" I would saw a mimimum of 1 1/8 and that's only allowing 1/8" off each side to clean up with a molder.  That's not much slack unless your mill is really dialed in.  

I would ask the guys running the flooring machine what they want.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

redbeard

Southside had a good idea about skip planning. If by chance that's what they want you can use old blades and bend some teeth and skim the boards to get some deep saw marks, After you mill them too thickness you decide. More work but lt looks pretty rustic skip planned.
Back too normal milling smooth planning 1-1/8" would be a safe thickness like others have mentioned 



Google Image Result for https://enterprisewood.com/2017/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/reclaimed_oak_flooring_skip_planed_natural.jpg
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

Crossroads

Last year I sawed a bunch of reclaimed bridge beam (Doug fir) and the regular 7° blades worked well. 
With the right fulcrum and enough leverage, you can move the world!

2017 LT40 wide, BMS250 and BMT250,036 stihl, 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, l8000 Ford dump truck, hr16 Terex excavator, Valley je 2x24 edger, Gehl ctl65 skid steer, JD350c dozer

quadracutter222

What sort of wood?  Pretty cool to turn old history into value-added like that.

ejb17

Thanks for all the input. Based on your thoughts I will probably mill at 1 1/8" so he has enough to get what he wants with the look he wants. I am not sure what wood it is but I do not think it is pine. I will probably start with a regular 7° and see what happens. I have some turbos and bimetals. He also brought a short piece to start on that will mostly be end pieces the way the beam looks so I can get a feel for what to expect.
USA - Believe in it, or Be Leaving it!
2005 LT40G28

Brad_bb

If it's hardwood, use 4 degree.  And metal detect all of them.  You're likely to have some broken off nails in them.  The first thing I ever did with my mill was de-nail 100 old beech beams from a 114 year old building and re-mill the outside to end up with 8x8 beams.  Despite metal detecting, some still got by us but with found them with the mill.  Hence we went though a number of bands, but it was worth it.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Warren

As others have stated, make sure to use a metal detector.  Wouldn't hurt to have a discussion on the front end with customer regarding how to handle pieces with too may nails, any wrecked blades, etc...

One of my first "for hire" milling jobs was a couple barn beams to be used for trim.  Before I had a metal detector. Guy "guaranteed" no nails, no metal.  Let's just say that I learned a lesson...
LT40SHD42, Case 1845C,  Baker Edger ...  And still not near enough time in the day ...

Ron Wenrich

When I first started sawing, I used to charge 10¢/bf & $10/nail.  You would have to adjust for inflation.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

DWyatt

If I remember correctly Peter Drouin milled barn beams the end of last year by the semi trailer load....... and trashed  bands by the semi trailer load as well :D

Brad_bb

I suggest getting a Garrett Super Scanner V if you don't have one.  About $130.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

DWyatt

Funny this subject came up, about 15 minutes after my last reply my dad called and he has a guy who might be needing some old beams milled into 4/4 material. Apparently all the beams are 30'ish long. I'll wait to find out if he actually gets them bought.

Brad_bb

Well and does he actually need 30 footers?  Probably not.  Handling a 4/4 30 footer is, well, not really practical.  It'll likely break somewhere, at least some will.  He probably wants 8 or 10 footers.  I'm stockpiling boards to make flooring and I separate by length - 2, 4, 6, and 8 footers.  You often get boards shorter than 8 foot from outer boards of the log.  Sometimes you get a short 2 or 4 footer with nice crotch grain.  It will all look good as flooring.  It's much easier handling if you separate it by length onto respective length pallets.  When you go to start processing it too, it will work better running all similar length boards at one time.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

slider

If it is pine and old pine i would use diesel for lube. I have used every thing i could think of for lube and diesel works the best. I was concerned at first about using with my lt70 because of the pump and having problems but after 10 years it still works. 

As for the thickness , talk to the person that is doing the molding first. 
al glenn

ejb17

You guys have made me nervous. I am looking into a detector as we speak. This job will pay for it and then I will have it for the future.
USA - Believe in it, or Be Leaving it!
2005 LT40G28

DWyatt

Quote from: Brad_bb on January 29, 2019, 06:01:15 PM
Well and does he actually need 30 footers?  Probably not.  Handling a 4/4 30 footer is, well, not really practical.  It'll likely break somewhere, at least some will.  He probably wants 8 or 10 footers.  I'm stockpiling boards to make flooring and I separate by length - 2, 4, 6, and 8 footers.  You often get boards shorter than 8 foot from outer boards of the log.  Sometimes you get a short 2 or 4 footer with nice crotch grain.  It will all look good as flooring.  It's much easier handling if you separate it by length onto respective length pallets.  When you go to start processing it too, it will work better running all similar length boards at one time.
Dad told him I could do up to 20' and he was planning to cut them to length before milling. I wouldn't want to be the one carrying even 20' 4/4 boards! :o

Sixacresand

Old beam jobs should be by the hour and plus cost of blades.  Expensive and time consuming. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

ejb17

That is exactly how I quoted. Hourly and bands. But I am trying to get my hands on a metal detector.
USA - Believe in it, or Be Leaving it!
2005 LT40G28

YellowHammer

Once you hit a few nails and trash a few bands, and charge the customer for it, he will be the one looking for a metal detector.   :D

Personally, I charged for the band replacement fee plus $.  It was more of a punishment charge, and after a few hits, the customers was much more careful about finding nails and such.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Sixacresand

Quote from: YellowHammer on January 30, 2019, 10:56:03 PM
 It was more of a punishment charge, 
I certainly feel punished while ruining good bands and having to change them. 
I rather eat a green fly than saw old beams. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

Peter Drouin

Not a bad job after you get a setup going.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Junk. :D :D :D :D 8)
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Brad_bb

I bet that big cutoff metal was a big lag screw.  I pulled a couple of those.  
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

quadracutter222

Sweet pics!  Would be great to get my hands on some old fir bridge beams....

Thank You Sponsors!