Timber framed pavilion.

[Dave Shepard]

In the planning stages of a tf pavilion. Thinking either a 24x36, four bent frame with fairly traditional framing, or possibly a cruck frame. If I go more traditiinal, it will still have a lot of curved or forked members. Looking for some input regarding foundation attachment, among other things. I'm thinking substantial piers under each post, at this point.

[Don P]

Open structures are tough. Think through the bracing. The connection to the piers, I've done knife plates, they have no moment resistance but if the bracing is right above will transfer considerable lateral force and restrain against any uplift higher than dead load can resist in high wind. Wide, shorter, massive piers work best, I've seen too many overturned leggy sonotubes and block stacks.

A friend described brace mortises on a porch of his rotting prematurely and an expensive repair. Think through that, adequate overhangs, drainage and borate the pockets perhaps. Box frame with 3 post blocked posts might be another thought to provide shear wall type corners. Or natural Y posts.

[logman]

A friend described brace mortises on a porch of his rotting prematurely and an expensive repair. Think through that, adequate overhangs, drainage and borate the pockets perhaps. Box frame with 3 post blocked posts might be another thought to provide shear wall type corners. Or natural Y posts.

You can put a slight slant on the brace mortises to drain any water.  I always drill a tiny hole in king post mortises for water to drain on outside king post trusses.

[Boxwood Bumper]

I installed my pavilion on an existing concrete slab (TF was an afterthought). The concrete thickness varied from 8-in to 3-ft in the area where I installed a masonry fireplace, with rebar on 1-ft centers and a footer. The concrete piers are 18-in x 18-in and 2-ft high. I dowelled in rebar using epoxy into the existing slab and built rebar cages for the piers. Then poured concrete into the formed piers.

The posts (12-in x 12-in) were attached to 7/8-in SS threaded rod 18-in long that was dowelled and epoxied into the pier using a Timberlix connector.

I have a more details if you need.

[everythingwood]

I hope you can keep us all updated with your pavilion build.  I'm about to start the joinery for my TF woodshed and a pavilion is on my TF to-do-list... complete with an outdoor fireplace and barbeque.  I have been considering a cruck frame as well.

[Dave Shepard]

I'll kero this thread updated as things develop. Still waiting to see how big it needs to be. I think a cruck frame has some limitations, aesthetically. I think at a certain width the proportions won't work for this pavillion. The eaves height will have to start going up to meet the width, and that will make it too barn like, in my opinion. 

[everythingwood]

I'll be following with interest.  I get what you're saying about the larger cruck being too barn-like.  The one I have bouncing around in my head is on the order of 16x24.  Close to the "golden rule" and I have seen pics of cruck cabin builds on this scale that look real nice.  I've already been eying up the crooked trees on my property.

If you are looking at a more natural form with curved and forked members are you going the hand-hewn route?

[Dave Shepard]

I might do four different bents to showcase different methods. Cruck, scribe, square rule, gunstock posts. I might hew one of them. Haven't decided if that's too cheesy or not.  :D Just waiting to see how big it needs to be. 

[thedoublejranch]

 This is what I did for bracing. I used the timberlocks or ledgerlocks, 10" long, each brace has 2 timberlocks at each end and staggered, ie tow nailed affect. Rock solid.