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Author Topic: Forming for shop door opening  (Read 431 times)

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Offline Sedgehammer

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Forming for shop door opening
« on: September 11, 2021, 12:58:11 AM »
walls are 2x6. Prolly use a 1" furring strip inside for steel. 5/8 cdx exterior. So that's 7"-1/8 for the wall. The 2" set on the exterior for the metal wainscoting would also have a 1" furring strip

Do any of you that have poured a shop door opening set like a 2x12 flat cut out like a 'T' in the form so the overhead sets down below the floor some and no water gets inside when it rains? or did you just slope that area?

This leaves 2" (top part of the T) for the track and insulated door. I don't think that is enough. Prolly needs 2.5"

also, door width is 14", what would you do the rough opening at for 2x wood trimmed out when done?



Offline doc henderson

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Re: Forming for shop door opening
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2021, 01:07:43 AM »
we slope under the door and use western cedar for trim.
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Offline gspren

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Re: Forming for shop door opening
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2021, 09:36:25 AM »
Assuming overhead door? On my recently built pole building where I am still awaiting the doors ordered 10 weeks ago they just sloped the concrete slightly out. Suggested door openings should be slightly smaller than door size, on my 16' wide by 14' high they framed about 1/2" smaller both directions. Not sure if that's what you're asking but that's what my Amish builders did and they build lots of big buildings.
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Offline farmfromkansas

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Re: Forming for shop door opening
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2021, 10:42:59 AM »
The last time I formed an offset for the overhead door to fit, I measured how far inside the track and door needed off a similar door, then formed the opening out of the floor.  Used screws so the lumber was easily removed.  Also formed the perimeter,on the outside of the building so when the concrete was starting to set, removed the form for the door, and had a wheelbarrow full of concrete from the pour, used a tiny little screed, with an offset cut out, and put that concrete in the opening and packed it down and finished it with the offset.  Hope that makes sense.  But the concrete has stayed good, so it worked well.  It is really hard to put a 2x12 flat in your form so it slopes, and can be removed to finish, but have done that as well.  The offset for your door will contain water much better than a slope when you have a windstorm with rain.
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Offline Larry

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Re: Forming for shop door opening
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2021, 11:13:26 PM »
I put in a 2 X 12 and it worked as intended but I would not do it again.  I have a couple of things that I roll out and in of the shop.  One is my welding table.  Hard rolling it back in over the ridge.  I also have rolled a couple of large machines into the shop on pipe.  Would have been easier on a smooth floor to the driveway.
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: Forming for shop door opening
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2021, 08:31:26 AM »
in the garage area (34 x 34) in the shop we had a little slope from the back and side walls towards the center and door.   and at the threshold, we had a 1/2 inch drop over 12 inches so that water could run out under the door.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline Sedgehammer

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Re: Forming for shop door opening
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2021, 08:52:12 AM »
@Larry yes, rolling things in and out could be an issue. What I'm worried about is a strong south wet wind

@doc henderson I wood slope this also if we weren't going to live in it for a few years or longer. The house is big and we'll be doing it without a mortgage. Going to be a few minutes or so getting it built


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